Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Brutus's Progress in pictures


Recommended Posts

that is going to be

Brutus front tag, it has a pic of Brutus the cartoon charactor with Brutus written over it and and at the bottom it says built not bought

Seems a theme then, for those worshipping here in the Garagemahal!

I don't want (or need) to attract any attention.

While I may have had bright orange and very loud vehicles in the past, I prefer to fade into the woodwork.

The Porsche I passed at well over 100 a couple of weeks ago may disagree that I'm keeping it low key,

But I'm just another old, red, work truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

People scoff at me when I say something like "I'm hauling this trailer down to my brothers in Carolina, to pick up his stuff"

Yes, the fuel bill is steep, but the truck starts every time I turn the key, and doesn't care if it's empty or dragging a 38' vacation trailer.

If it drives thousands and thousands of miles around town, why shouldn't it go wherever I want?

What are you using for paint?

Red 2k seems ridiculously expensive so I'm going to keep going with OSHA safety red Rustoleum.

Jim i just saw your question about what kind of paint we're using. its Rusto

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim i just saw your question about what kind of paint we're using. its Rusto

I'm using *Corrotech hardner and a mixture of acetone and toluene to reduce it.

Straight acetone seems too hot, and I end up with more orange peel than I want.

I need to replace the back right corner (where the backhoe hit me) and at least my rusted out passenger door before I go after the rest of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using *Corrotech hardner and a mixture of acetone and toluene to reduce it.

Straight acetone seems too hot, and I end up with more orange peel than I want.

I need to replace the back right corner (where the backhoe hit me) and at least my rusted out passenger door before I go after the rest of it.

Brutus is Royal Blue with a 1 to 1 mix with acetone, no hardner. Rusto is the only company that makes the correct color Burugndy for the ranchero, i think i'm going to try the hardner on that one.

have you used it with and with out hardner?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using *Corrotech hardner and a mixture of acetone and toluene to reduce it.

Straight acetone seems too hot, and I end up with more orange peel than I want.

I need to replace the back right corner (where the backhoe hit me) and at least my rusted out passenger door before I go after the rest of it.

what mixture of acetone and toulene are you using? It's hit and miss with orange peel with us. This go round on Brutus came out really good. the pics of the paint is before water sanding

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what mixture of acetone and toulene are you using? It's hit and miss with orange peel with us. This go round on Brutus came out really good. the pics of the paint is before water sanding

I believe I was at 70/30 A to T, but I will have to check my notes.

Without hardner Rust-oleum is soft for days (as the oxygen diffuses into it, and promotes polymerization)

This is why if you wait too long between coats you'll get alligators.

If too long you need to wait until it is hard all the way through.

With a metallic salt (cobalt napthanate, usually) this process is catalyzed and sped up immensely.

You get a harder, glossier paint job and you can cut it back much sooner if you like.

I try not to wet sand, though I do have paper to 2500.

I use a cheap Horrid Fate buffer and have 3 wool bonnets with the good old DuPont #7 rubbing and also polishing compounds, then finish with Meguiars #2.

/geek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe I was at 70/30 A to T, but I will have to check my notes.

Without hardner Rust-oleum is soft for days (as the oxygen diffuses into it, and promotes polymerization)

This is why if you wait too long between coats you'll get alligators.

If too long you need to wait until it is hard all the way through.

With a metallic salt (cobalt napthanate, usually) this process is catalyzed and sped up immensely.

You get a harder, glossier paint job and you can cut it back much sooner if you like.

I try not to wet sand, though I do have paper to 2500.

I use a cheap Horrid Fate buffer and have 3 wool bonnets with the good old DuPont #7 rubbing and also polishing compounds, then finish with Meguiars #2.

/geek

I go through all the steps, 1k grit, 1.5k grit, 2k, then finish off with 3k, 3m compound, polish. Here is an after

DSCN0675.jpg.c706bc90a49d071f70c8c539b2cb377e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I go through all the steps, 1k grit, 1.5k grit, 2k, then finish off with 3k, 3m compound, polish. Here is an after

That looks beautiful! :nabble_smiley_cool:

My work truck is not nearly straight enough for that kind of gloss.

Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing first gained traction producing auto paint sandpaper for Ford back when Model T's and A's were painted (black only) by brush!

They have a LOT of experience in ultra fine abrasives, and the automobile finishing trade in particular.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...