Minkheel Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 I only mentioned the TFI remote as a heatsink for a GM module. You know what that finned chunk of aluminum looks like. Yes, while Dave says some people get away with a YFA and no computer, we've had discussion about the Chinese YF clones recently. I think that if you purchase the proper configuration clone (@ well under $100) you can have a fine running 300 with no conflicts and plenty of adjustment. Jim — Could you expand on this point RE YFA “I think that if you purchase the proper configuration clone (@ well under $100) you can have a fine running 300 with no conflicts and plenty of adjustment.” Given that my best move appears to be replacing my carb with a non-feedback carb and going to an DS-II or HEI ignition, what else should I do to get the best possible set up? YFA refers to the choke on the carb, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Jim — Could you expand on this point RE YFA “I think that if you purchase the proper configuration clone (@ well under $100) you can have a fine running 300 with no conflicts and plenty of adjustment.” Given that my best move appears to be replacing my carb with a non-feedback carb and going to an DS-II or HEI ignition, what else should I do to get the best possible set up? YFA refers to the choke on the carb, yes? The (A) at the end means it has a feedback solenoid and different metering. If you're getting away from having a computer you want a YF. I am not any kind of 300 expert, but I will say some have straight thermal chokes, some have electric assist, some have electric only. And we have linkage differences for automatic transmission kick down. Heatshields in different locations. Provisions for all kind of stuff, like how the fuel line enters. You just need to take stock of how your current carb is configured and get one that matches (or, at least doesn't conflict!) Like if the new one had the fuel line coming from a direction that is obstructed on your truck. You've got to remember YF's came on dozens of different vehicles over the years. Which one of those a particular clone is based on I just can't say. I am not a 300 expert... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minkheel Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 The (A) at the end means it has a feedback solenoid and different metering.If you're getting away from having a computer you want a YF.I am not any kind of 300 expert, but I will say some have straight thermal chokes, some have electric assist, some have electric only.And we have linkage differences for automatic transmission kick down.Heatshields in different locations.Provisions for all kind of stuff, like how the fuel line enters.You just need to take stock of how your current carb is configured and get one that matches (or, at least doesn't conflict!)Like if the new one had the fuel line coming from a direction that is obstructed on your truck.You've got to remember YF's came on dozens of different vehicles over the years.Which one of those a particular clone is based on I just can't say.I am not a 300 expert...It doesn’t look like you can get a remanufactured YF only carb. Isn’t the A just a matter of electric choke (YFA) vs manual chock (YF)? On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 7:34 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 The (A) at the end means it has a feedback solenoid and different metering. If you're getting away from having a computer you want a YF. I am not any kind of 300 expert, but I will say some have straight thermal chokes, some have electric assist, some have electric only. And we have linkage differences for automatic transmission kick down. Heatshields in different locations. Provisions for all kind of stuff, like how the fuel line enters. You just need to take stock of how your current carb is configured and get one that matches (or, at least doesn't conflict!) Like if the new one had the fuel line coming from a direction that is obstructed on your truck. You've got to remember YF's came on dozens of different vehicles over the years. Which one of those a particular clone is based on I just can't say. I am not a 300 expert... David/1986F150Six put a 1970's YF on his truck and it worked extremely well. Maybe he'll come along to tell us what the carb was off of, but I'll go see if I can find it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minkheel Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 David/1986F150Six put a 1970's YF on his truck and it worked extremely well. Maybe he'll come along to tell us what the carb was off of, but I'll go see if I can find it.... One can get a reman carb with a hot air choke for a 1975 F150 L6. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urm-7-7523 On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 8:11 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 David/1986F150Six put a 1970's YF on his truck and it worked extremely well. Maybe he'll come along to tell us what the carb was off of, but I'll go see if I can find it.... Here's a hit: On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order. /quote> Carter YF 4901 S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minkheel Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 Here's a hit:On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order. /quote>Carter YF 4901 SThat leads to this reman ... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urm-7-7330 On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 8:18 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Jim — Could you expand on this point RE YFA “I think that if you purchase the proper configuration clone (@ well under $100) you can have a fine running 300 with no conflicts and plenty of adjustment.” Given that my best move appears to be replacing my carb with a non-feedback carb and going to an DS-II or HEI ignition, what else should I do to get the best possible set up? YFA refers to the choke on the carb, yes? From what I remember when they first came out YFA was an updated model with a much shorter throttle body than the 50s and 60s YF models. Y seems to be Carter's designation for the basic design, there are YH versions (side draft) a YS version for the Military M151 family (no mechanical pump or metering rod control). The YFA carbs all have a metering rod adjustment that is only supposed to be done with a proper exhaust gas analyzer on a dynamometer. I am sure that the better rebuilders have a flow bench to do this calibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 I only mentioned the TFI remote as a heatsink for a GM module. You know what that finned chunk of aluminum looks like. Yes, while Dave says some people get away with a YFA and no computer, we've had discussion about the Chinese YF clones recently. I think that if you purchase the proper configuration clone (@ well under $100) you can have a fine running 300 with no conflicts and plenty of adjustment. Jim, the issue with using the remote mount TFI heat sink, it is designed for a straight module with all the connections on one end. This brings up another point, there are two different types of TFI modules that have entirely different characteristics. The gray modules (distributor or remote mount) are referred to as "push start" and have a cranking signal like the DS-II modules. These "push" the dwell duration for a hotter spark when cranking. The black TFI modules are called "CCD" for Computer Controlled Dwell and the EEC controls the dwell time to get a hotter spark when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minkheel Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 Here's a hit: On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order. /quote> Carter YF 4901 S Ok, so the carb for a 1970 F-350 (or any other 1970 with the 300 L6) is this one ... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urm-7-7330/year/1970/make/ford/model/f-350/submodel/base Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts