ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 I’m not seeing anything near the starter relay that looks like a fuse. Maybe that’s where I’m having an issue following. There’s this thing I’m not sure of, but I don’t think it’s a fuse... Maybe I’m wrong? Here’s a closer look at the wires that the old alternator used to connect to. After cleaning it a bit I’m not seeing orange at all. What you see is a radio noise suppression condenser (or capacitor) You should have multiple fusible links connected with the battery cable at the starter relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 I’m not seeing anything near the starter relay that looks like a fuse. Maybe that’s where I’m having an issue following. There’s this thing I’m not sure of, but I don’t think it’s a fuse... Maybe I’m wrong? Here’s a closer look at the wires that the old alternator used to connect to. After cleaning it a bit I’m not seeing orange at all. That's definitely connector 610. Maybe you need to look a bit farther up the wire for the orange trace? Gary is correct when he says it's hard to discern on an old harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 What you see is a radio noise suppression condenser (or capacitor) You should have multiple fusible links connected with the battery cable at the starter relay. I think you’re right about the red/orange. As far as fuses by the battery/starter relay. There are none that I can see anywhere. The only fuses I can find are way downstream (L and M?) as pictured. Otherwise we’re running pure wire at the moment. The only thing that didn’t look stock to me was the battery wire which has been replaced sometime recently. Maybe they removed some fuses? Maybe they already removed the ammeter connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 I think you’re right about the red/orange. As far as fuses by the battery/starter relay. There are none that I can see anywhere. The only fuses I can find are way downstream (L and M?) as pictured. Otherwise we’re running pure wire at the moment. The only thing that didn’t look stock to me was the battery wire which has been replaced sometime recently. Maybe they removed some fuses? Maybe they already removed the ammeter connection? Look at the EVTM diagram. You definitely need more than just the battery cable at the starter relay. You may not have all those fusible links (like trailer wiring) if your truck wasn't equipped. But I've never seen a truck with just one (for ammeter) That's not to say it isn't possible, just that's something entirely new to me. That's definitely (L) and (M) under your finger in the second pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 Look at the EVTM diagram. You definitely need more than just the battery cable at the starter relay. You may not have all those fusible links (like trailer wiring) if your truck wasn't equipped. But I've never seen a truck with just one (for ammeter) That's not to say it isn't possible, just that's something entirely new to me. That's definitely (L) and (M) under your finger in the second pic. Yeah, the only thing connected at the relay on the positive side was the alternator and the actual battery cable. Other than that L and M, I can’t find any other fuses at all. Do all of the factory fuses look like L and M? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Yeah, the only thing connected at the relay on the positive side was the alternator and the actual battery cable. Other than that L and M, I can’t find any other fuses at all. Do all of the factory fuses look like L and M? Fusible links do have a rubbery lug attached, like you see with L&M. They can be replaced with what seems like a simple rubber wire and a crimp connector, but in all cases the wire colour corresponds to their amperage rating (just like regular fuses) As I said, it may be that your truck only had the one fusible link to the alternator harness, but I just haven't seen that until now. Are there any other wires nearby that look to have been replaced (like the battery wire has)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 Fusible links do have a rubbery lug attached, like you see with L&M. They can be replaced with what seems like a simple rubber wire and a crimp connector, but in all cases the wire colour corresponds to their amperage rating (just like regular fuses) As I said, it may be that your truck only had the one fusible link to the alternator harness, but I just haven't seen that until now. Are there any other wires nearby that look to have been replaced (like the battery wire has)? No, everything else looks like straight untouched stock set up. I do have tow wiring in the back. I’ll have to check how that’s run under the truck. I don’t believe it’s factory, but might have been dealer added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 No, everything else looks like straight untouched stock set up. I do have tow wiring in the back. I’ll have to check how that’s run under the truck. I don’t believe it’s factory, but might have been dealer added. Gary's EVTM page seems to show other fusible links as eec+start and carburetor circuits as being for the 4.9l engine. I guess it's possible you have neither. IDK what year his EVTM is.... I don't think it matters what is "stock". We have to work with what you have "now" at any rate. The important things in converting the wiring are: Bring the lt green/red key on power to the 3G regulator plug. Bring the charge cable to the new fuse, and the new fuse to the battery positive (either at the starter relay, or to the terminal itself) Bring the thick yellow main cab power wire to either the starter relay battery positive post, or the fused side of the new fuse holder. Bring the 3G regulator plug yellow/white 'sense' wire to alternator output (somewhere) -i differ in saying this should not be on the far side of the fuse, for reasons already explained- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 Gary's EVTM page seems to show other fusible links as eec+start and carburetor circuits as being for the 4.9l engine. I guess it's possible you have neither. IDK what year his EVTM is.... I don't think it matters what is "stock". We have to work with what you have "now" at any rate. The important things in converting the wiring are: Bring the lt green/red key on power to the 3G regulator plug. Bring the charge cable to the new fuse, and the new fuse to the battery positive (either at the starter relay, or to the terminal itself) Bring the thick yellow main cab power wire to either the starter relay battery positive post, or the fused side of the new fuse holder. Bring the 3G regulator plug yellow/white 'sense' wire to alternator output (somewhere) -i differ in saying this should not be on the far side of the fuse, for reasons already explained- Got it. Thanks for your help! Just for safety’s sake, what’s the easiest way to know if the Ammeter is still getting juice? Voltage tester? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Got it. Thanks for your help! Just for safety’s sake, what’s the easiest way to know if the Ammeter is still getting juice? Voltage tester? If you just leave that plug (C610) disconnected you have both ends of the ammeter wiring right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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