Alternator shim

[ArdWrknTrk]

That makes sense on a regular washer, but the image of the Home Depot package shows those are machine bushings. I’m wondering if it’s just this model of alternator. The thread part is definitely 5/8. The bushing I have fits over that just fine.

It's up to you.

I fly with a regular washer, and I don't know how many years it's been.

[Machspeed]

The shaft is 17mm in diameter.

Have you tried a metric washer?

Too bad you don't have a lathe.....five minute fix!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Too bad you don't have a lathe.....five minute fix!

It's a two minute fix with a rat tail file.

This isn't "rocket surgery"!

[FrazerJames]

It's a two minute fix with a rat tail file.

This isn't "rocket surgery"! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

I don’t have that type of mechanical confidence. I assume an alternator has very specific needs, but that’s mostly because I know very little about how they’re built and I don’t want to ruin the part or waste my time!

Speaking of... I’m following the instructions in the documentation on how to install the alternator and I’ve just got way more wires that what I was accounting for. The wire coming from the NEW alternator I’m all good on. I’m just not sure about the extra wires attached to the existing alternator!

See attached pics - I assume I’d just splice in the new alternator wires before the harness, but what do I do with all the unused ones? Tape them up?

Then there’s this one coming from the alternator going into the carb. I can’t find anything on this one.

[FrazerJames]

I don’t have that type of mechanical confidence. I assume an alternator has very specific needs, but that’s mostly because I know very little about how they’re built and I don’t want to ruin the part or waste my time!

Speaking of... I’m following the instructions in the documentation on how to install the alternator and I’ve just got way more wires that what I was accounting for. The wire coming from the NEW alternator I’m all good on. I’m just not sure about the extra wires attached to the existing alternator!

See attached pics - I assume I’d just splice in the new alternator wires before the harness, but what do I do with all the unused ones? Tape them up?

Then there’s this one coming from the alternator going into the carb. I can’t find anything on this one.

Ah, wait, that one to the carb is for the choke I think, yes?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don’t have that type of mechanical confidence. I assume an alternator has very specific needs, but that’s mostly because I know very little about how they’re built and I don’t want to ruin the part or waste my time!

Speaking of... I’m following the instructions in the documentation on how to install the alternator and I’ve just got way more wires that what I was accounting for. The wire coming from the NEW alternator I’m all good on. I’m just not sure about the extra wires attached to the existing alternator!

See attached pics - I assume I’d just splice in the new alternator wires before the harness, but what do I do with all the unused ones? Tape them up?

Then there’s this one coming from the alternator going into the carb. I can’t find anything on this one.

That's not ground. That's battery positive going to the starter relay.

Do you have a new regulator plug for your 3G?

Do you have a fuseholder, 150 or 175 amp fuse and a short cable to connect the fuse holder to either the hot (circled) post of the relay, or directly to the battery positive?

You're going to need that, and a stator plug as well.

The black and white stator wire also goes to the choke coil on your carburetor...

You need to remove your 1G regulator entirely.

Find the green/red wire (I).

This goes to the green (excite) wire of the 3G regulator plug.

The yellow wire of that plug attaches to the output lug of the 3G.

And the stator (black and white) wire of the regulator plug goes to both the stator connector and the carburetor choke heater.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

That makes sense on a regular washer, but the image of the Home Depot package shows those are machine bushings. I’m wondering if it’s just this model of alternator. The thread part is definitely 5/8. The bushing I have fits over that just fine.

I think 99% of all alternators have a 17mm shaft.

(Ford, Chevy, One wire, CPD, and any Japanese or European brand I can think of)

Probably because all the standard bearings are metric.

 

[FrazerJames]

That's not ground. That's battery positive going to the starter relay.

Do you have a new regulator plug for your 3G?

Do you have a fuseholder, 150 or 175 amp fuse and a short cable to connect the fuse holder to either the hot (circled) post of the relay, or directly to the battery positive?

You're going to need that, and a stator plug as well.

The black and white stator wire also goes to the choke coil on your carburetor...

You need to remove your 1G regulator entirely.

Find the green/red wire (I).

This goes to the green (excite) wire of the 3G regulator plug.

The yellow wire of that plug attaches to the output lug of the 3G.

And the stator (black and white) wire of the regulator plug goes to both the stator connector and the carburetor choke heater.

I got this Painless 3G wiring kit with all the fixins. I think what I was misunderstanding is that I didn’t need to old regulator at all. Ok, so I can kill that easy enough.

So I’ll need to splice the wire going to the carb to the black/white wire in the kit... Maybe I should wait to install this then... I’ve got the Sniper EFI coming in a week or so.

As far as the Ammeter wire - Is there anything I really need to do with that? If I disconnect it from the 1g regulator harness and don’t attach it to anything, we’re basically good right?

[Rusty_S85]

I got this Painless 3G wiring kit with all the fixins. I think what I was misunderstanding is that I didn’t need to old regulator at all. Ok, so I can kill that easy enough.

So I’ll need to splice the wire going to the carb to the black/white wire in the kit... Maybe I should wait to install this then... I’ve got the Sniper EFI coming in a week or so.

As far as the Ammeter wire - Is there anything I really need to do with that? If I disconnect it from the 1g regulator harness and don’t attach it to anything, we’re basically good right?

You can still attach it. It would basically be dead if you run a second wire from alternator to the battery. I am contemplating about attaching that wire post fuse if it will reach that way even if the alternator fuse blows the alternator wouldnt be trying to force all the power through that wire. I honestly dont believe you can leave that wire loose as that is the main wire for power going to the whole truck. It would have to be hooked up some way.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I got this Painless 3G wiring kit with all the fixins. I think what I was misunderstanding is that I didn’t need to old regulator at all. Ok, so I can kill that easy enough.

So I’ll need to splice the wire going to the carb to the black/white wire in the kit... Maybe I should wait to install this then... I’ve got the Sniper EFI coming in a week or so.

As far as the Ammeter wire - Is there anything I really need to do with that? If I disconnect it from the 1g regulator harness and don’t attach it to anything, we’re basically good right?

Yes, the red and orange wires can just get taped up out of the way, in case you decide to convert to a voltmeter in the future.

You need to take the fat yellow wire going to the ignition switch and connect it to your new fuse.

I'm not familiar with the Painless kit. I've always just cobbled together a few plugs and cables.

I don't see any reason to spend more than $30 all in, for what is a bunch of off the shelf parts.

It's mid summer.

I don't think you need the choke heater at all.

If you're changing out the carburetor in a week, I just wouldn't bother hooking it up to the carb.

Maybe back the cap off a notch or two.

You have the red hose supplying heat anyhow.