Instrument Panel and Misc

[Gary Lewis]

For the circuit board you will need one of the following.

1980 : E0TZ-10K843-B. This should be marked E0TF-10C956-BB and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

1981/86 : E1TZ-10K843-B. This should be marked E1TF-10C956-BA and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

Rusty - I'm confused. The 1980 & 1985 Master Cross Reference books show exactly what you said. However, in reality that's not always true. You can see that from my pic, below, - a printed circuit that ends in "B" and which has gauges and supports a tach. And it has been working quite well.

So, I think what we should say is that the versions that support a tach end in "BX", where "X" may not even exist. Does that make sense? Is there a better way to say it?

[Rusty_S85]

For the circuit board you will need one of the following.

1980 : E0TZ-10K843-B. This should be marked E0TF-10C956-BB and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

1981/86 : E1TZ-10K843-B. This should be marked E1TF-10C956-BA and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

Rusty - I'm confused. The 1980 & 1985 Master Cross Reference books show exactly what you said. However, in reality that's not always true. You can see that from my pic, below, - a printed circuit that ends in "B" and which has gauges and supports a tach. And it has been working quite well.

So, I think what we should say is that the versions that support a tach end in "BX", where "X" may not even exist. Does that make sense? Is there a better way to say it?

Thats what I noticed. I wonder if it might be a revised number that came later.

My parts and illustration guide is where I got the information from so its quite possible the double suffix might be a final iteration of the part number.

One thing I did notice is there is an A up above the number on your circuit board and I question if that A was relocated there to keep it away from the circuits that otherwise would be close to and yours is really marked BA just with the A no where near the rest of the number?

Your non tach listed one has an A listed far away as well.

The number for that one in the parts and illustration guide is

E1TZ-10K843-C for 81/86 F100/350 w/o Tach. It says the number on there would be E1TF-10C956-CA

[Machspeed]

Thats what I noticed. I wonder if it might be a revised number that came later.

My parts and illustration guide is where I got the information from so its quite possible the double suffix might be a final iteration of the part number.

One thing I did notice is there is an A up above the number on your circuit board and I question if that A was relocated there to keep it away from the circuits that otherwise would be close to and yours is really marked BA just with the A no where near the rest of the number?

Your non tach listed one has an A listed far away as well.

The number for that one in the parts and illustration guide is

E1TZ-10K843-C for 81/86 F100/350 w/o Tach. It says the number on there would be E1TF-10C956-CA

Well, I'm thinking I may not have the necessary circuit board to just add a tach. It's hard to read but looks like the last three are 5CA. Attached are photos. If I don't have the correct circuit board, what are my options?

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I'm thinking I may not have the necessary circuit board to just add a tach. It's hard to read but looks like the last three are 5CA. Attached are photos. If I don't have the correct circuit board, what are my options?

You do not have the right printed circuit for a tach. There are two options:

1. Buy either a complete instrument cluster with tach, or buy a tach and the associated circuit

2. Hard wire it. The four wires you need are in that connector, but you'd have to solder a wire onto the copper trace and put a ring terminal on the end to go under the stud of the tach.

If you've not done a lot of soldering I'd suggest getting the whole instrument cluster inc tach.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You do not have the right printed circuit for a tach. There are two options:

1. Buy either a complete instrument cluster with tach, or buy a tach and the associated circuit

2. Hard wire it. The four wires you need are in that connector, but you'd have to solder a wire onto the copper trace and put a ring terminal on the end to go under the stud of the tach.

If you've not done a lot of soldering I'd suggest getting the whole instrument cluster inc tach.

It can be real tricky to solder to the copper foil traces on the flex circuit.

You need to be sure the surface is immaculate, and you need to work real fast so you don't cause too much plastic to melt.

I usually heavily tin the wire, get it liquid with a gun* and touch them both to the flex.

As soon as it starts to flow I let go the trigger and pin the wire down with something that won't stick.

(Chopstick with beeswax works good)

[Gary Lewis]

It can be real tricky to solder to the copper foil traces on the flex circuit.

You need to be sure the surface is immaculate, and you need to work real fast so you don't cause too much plastic to melt.

I usually heavily tin the wire, get it liquid with a gun* and touch them both to the flex.

As soon as it starts to flow I let go the trigger and pin the wire down with something that won't stick.

(Chopstick with beeswax works good)

Well said, Jim. I don't use a soldering gun on a printed circuit. Soldering pen, yes. But keep the heat low as that copper is adhered to the plastic with a glue and you don't want to mess it up.

[Machspeed]

It can be real tricky to solder to the copper foil traces on the flex circuit.

You need to be sure the surface is immaculate, and you need to work real fast so you don't cause too much plastic to melt.

I usually heavily tin the wire, get it liquid with a gun* and touch them both to the flex.

As soon as it starts to flow I let go the trigger and pin the wire down with something that won't stick.

(Chopstick with beeswax works good)

I'm pretty good with a torch and soldering iron, but for this I feel I'd be better off just sourcing a new cluster with the tach. What really ticks me off is that I've been wanting to make this tach conversion for years.....way back when these trucks were plentiful in the salvage yards but never did. Good luck finding them now. BTW, is the clear plastic lens bezel available for our instrument panels???

Gary, read through your LED posting and am wondering how I missed that. Looks like you really like those HiPo Cool Whites. What's your advised direction on the needle paint....HiPo paint or Testors?

Curious, who did your cataract surgery?

 

[Gary Lewis]

I'm pretty good with a torch and soldering iron, but for this I feel I'd be better off just sourcing a new cluster with the tach. What really ticks me off is that I've been wanting to make this tach conversion for years.....way back when these trucks were plentiful in the salvage yards but never did. Good luck finding them now. BTW, is the clear plastic lens bezel available for our instrument panels???

Gary, read through your LED posting and am wondering how I missed that. Looks like you really like those HiPo Cool Whites. What's your advised direction on the needle paint....HiPo paint or Testors?

Curious, who did your cataract surgery?

Yes, you'd be better off getting the whole thing if you aren't good with soldering electronics.

As for the clear plastic, I think David/1986F150Six has found them NOS. We didn't have the part numbers in the page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges, but I added them just now.

As for the HiPo LEDs, I do really like them. They work very nicely.

On the paint, I used HiPo's paint but have also used Testors. They both worked for me.

And Dr. Todd Brockman at The Eye Institute did my cataract surgery.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well said, Jim. I don't use a soldering gun on a printed circuit. Soldering pen, yes. But keep the heat low as that copper is adhered to the plastic with a glue and you don't want to mess it up.

I guess I use the gun because...

A) it's got enough thermal mass that that tinned wire is sticking NOW.

The foil has no mass, so it's up to temp instantly.

B) I can drop the gun and get on the stick before the solder flashes.

I can't get my iron back in the base, then pick up the stick and catch it before it freezes.

I guess my hands are not steady enough anymore.

I definitely wouldn't want to heat it slowly no matter what the ratio. (60/40, 70/30..)

Maybe there's some new magic solder that's low enough.

I see those crimp splices you heat to shrink the tubing and flow the pellet with a regular butane lighter.

But that's witchcraft to me.

[Rusty_S85]

I guess I use the gun because...

A) it's got enough thermal mass that that tinned wire is sticking NOW.

The foil has no mass, so it's up to temp instantly.

B) I can drop the gun and get on the stick before the solder flashes.

I can't get my iron back in the base, then pick up the stick and catch it before it freezes.

I guess my hands are not steady enough anymore.

I definitely wouldn't want to heat it slowly no matter what the ratio. (60/40, 70/30..)

Maybe there's some new magic solder that's low enough.

I see those crimp splices you heat to shrink the tubing and flow the pellet with a regular butane lighter.

But that's witchcraft to me.

those are cool I use them at work. Only thing is they dont have enough solder for my tastes in them. But I never had one fail though.