kramttocs Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I'm simply going to use a longer flange bolt in the dashboard stay to the right of the bellhousing hump. Good call. That's how I have my standalone amp grounded since it uses 8awg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 I'm simply going to use a longer flange bolt in the dashboard stay to the right of the bellhousing hump. Good call. That's how I have my standalone amp grounded since it uses 8awg. I think 10 (marine stranded and tinned) is enough for me. I'm going to have the Sub, the radio and the relay under that bolt. Copper lugged cable from there to the point directly in front of the battery where my 000 ground cable is pigtailed to the radiator support. Since that's a 10Ga. pigtail I see no reason to go bigger on the Sub ground. Though I could go directly to the terminal if you think I should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I think 10 (marine stranded and tinned) is enough for me. I'm going to have the Sub, the radio and the relay under that bolt. Copper lugged cable from there to the point directly in front of the battery where my 000 ground cable is pigtailed to the radiator support. Since that's a 10Ga. pigtail I see no reason to go bigger on the Sub ground. Though I could go directly to the terminal if you think I should. Remind me - do you have a separate amp or only the amp/sub combo? If the latter, at least with my kicker combo (which seems very similar to the retro sound) it's only 14awg for power/ground so the 10awg is plenty even with all 3 on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 Remind me - do you have a separate amp or only the amp/sub combo? If the latter, at least with my kicker combo (which seems very similar to the retro sound) it's only 14awg for power/ground so the 10awg is plenty even with all 3 on there. Just the all in one sub. The dsx-gs80 head unit claims 45W RMS x 4, but I'm pretty sure the 100 peak x 4 claims are poo. How do you get that from a 15A fuse??? Anyway, huge downpour! I'm soaked to the skin and need to clean up, so I'll be back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Just the all in one sub. The dsx-gs80 head unit claims 45W RMS x 4, but I'm pretty sure the 100 peak x 4 claims are poo. How do you get that from a 15A fuse??? Anyway, huge downpour! I'm soaked to the skin and need to clean up, so I'll be back. I'm still waiting for all those pics.... Sorry you got rained out. But at least you got cooled off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I'm still waiting for all those pics.... Sorry you got rained out. But at least you got cooled off. I forgot - to tighten the cab bolts I put a breakover w/a socket on the top, and had it up against the door or the back wall. It was tedious, but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 I forgot - to tighten the cab bolts I put a breakover w/a socket on the top, and had it up against the door or the back wall. It was tedious, but it worked. I had my 30" breaker and a 5/8 on top.... But plan B is to put a big pair of vice-grips on the bottom and use the impact from above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 I had my 30" breaker and a 5/8 on top.... But plan B is to put a big pair of vice-grips on the bottom and use the impact from above. A big enough pair of grips would hit something, surely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Ok, I've cooled off and calmed down a bit. The cicadas din hasn't let up though... George had this advice: I looked at all your stuff. i think it's going to sound pretty good once you are done. From what i can see your sub remotely turns on with the radio so you are good there. In our situation, Nick has a hot wire connected to the fuse box on switchd line using a 25 amp fuse. We did this this way for this reason. When the truck is running and we dont the stereo on, the amp will remain off. Most of the time when people connect amps, they connect them to the battery, meaning the amp will have available power all the time when connected to the radio via the remote turn wire. Ours turns on the same way, with the remote turn on wire from the radio, but the circuit will remain dead until the signal from the remote turn on wire is sent. Nick likes the amp to be disconnected from the battery when the truck is off. Unlike the other amps that have available power all the time. But remember , this is not a big powerful amp, is only 50 watts, the 25 amp circuit is more then enough for it. you can choose to do it this way or connect to the battery which is usually what the manufacturer suggests. it really does not matter which way you do it. Doing it through the fuse box is neater and you dont have power running into your amp all the time. Other then that just make sure when your ground the sub, ground it in the SAME PLACE as the radio is. you can can ground where the sub is located, but ground where the radio is as well. other then that it's pretty straight forward. georgeSo, once I figure out from the head unit manual if I can use the sub RCA jacks and the non-RCA speaker harness output I will have that all down. I'm using remote out to trigger the sub and the trucks side to trigger the relay (Econoline blower relay) to take constant -30A fused- power and send it to the sub. I'm bringing all grounds to a spot on the firewall (dash stay, I think) and going 10Ga. from there directly to where the battery grounds on the radiator support. The 10Ga. -fused- yellow cable will be attached to the Megafuse on the side of my little PDC. The relay will be somewhere behind the radio or ashtray. I also got all the Bricknose Ford mounting tabs attached to the head unit. I hope this makes sense. I guess I'll have pics later. When you say the non rca speaker harness, are you refereing to the truck's harness, or the subwoofer harness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 When you say the non rca speaker harness, are you refereing to the truck's harness, or the subwoofer harness? The radio has six wires out in a Molex type plug (plus ground, trigger , constant and switched power. It also has three pair of RCA plugs on the back. The manual says (quick & dirty) to just connect the sub to one rear channel of that multi plug. But that doesn't seem right to me. 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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