Cab upgrades

[ArdWrknTrk]

FYI

LR+ = pk/gr

LR-= bl/or

RR+ = pk/bu

RR- = gr/or

So, I got all my wires made up

Tucked away in the kick panel

Acid rinsed the sway bar hardware, and got it painted

Mounted the tiny "Sub" sub.

Then went about modifying the seat.

I started by removing the wire that unlatches the passenger side.

Then made a handle for the passenger side

Then welded that in place

The little green lunchbox is doing fine for a job like this!

How many times have I mentioned how much I like my old 75?

Remember when we could use one of these instead of a stereo microscope???

How did I even get this old??? 👴

(Well, at least I still have a full head of dark hair. )

 

[Gary Lewis]

So, I got all my wires made up

Tucked away in the kick panel

Acid rinsed the sway bar hardware, and got it painted

Mounted the tiny "Sub" sub.

Then went about modifying the seat.

I started by removing the wire that unlatches the passenger side.

Then made a handle for the passenger side

Then welded that in place

The little green lunchbox is doing fine for a job like this!

How many times have I mentioned how much I like my old 75?

Remember when we could use one of these instead of a stereo microscope???

How did I even get this old??? 👴

(Well, at least I still have a full head of dark hair. )

Looking good, Jim! Yes, I remember the magnifying glass with alligator clips. They work very nicely.

The hardware looks great as well, but I really like that sub and the insulation. However, tell me more about the seat mods? What are you doing and why?

Last, I think it is a Fluke that you like that meter.

[salans7]

Looking good, Jim! Yes, I remember the magnifying glass with alligator clips. They work very nicely.

The hardware looks great as well, but I really like that sub and the insulation. However, tell me more about the seat mods? What are you doing and why?

Last, I think it is a Fluke that you like that meter.

I remember trying to solder without one of those alligator clip stands. It's a necessity for the quality of my solder work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Looking good, Jim! Yes, I remember the magnifying glass with alligator clips. They work very nicely.

The hardware looks great as well, but I really like that sub and the insulation. However, tell me more about the seat mods? What are you doing and why?

Last, I think it is a Fluke that you like that meter.

So, theres a piece of music wire that links the handle on the drivers side to the slider on the right.

I had to move the sub forward because when I used a Bullnose seat cover on my brick seat, I put a rail across the back for the C-channel to fit over, and it didn't want to fit over the sub.

I took the wire off, but made a lever for the passenger side.

I'll get a picture of it in position in the morning. I'm bushed....

It's NO Fluke... I cherish that meter.

I bought it WAY back, on a trip to Wise or MJM electronics.

I had made a couple of bucks parting out main boards from some DEW station my dad had bought at auction.

Of course my Simpson 260 is the gem of my meters. But I didn't need instant response.

That thing is GOLD when you are shifting around a harness looking for a fault.

It reacts where a digital meter is just thinking about responding.

I also have a Meterman 33XL that is my knockabout meter.

It's in the truck ALWAYS.

Shaun,

Yeah. I'm usually ok, but when I'm kneeling next to the truck, my glasses are fogging and I'm just out of hands, it is a real lifesaver.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, theres a piece of music wire that links the handle on the drivers side to the slider on the right.

I had to move the sub forward because when I used a Bullnose seat cover on my brick seat, I put a rail across the back for the C-channel to fit over, and it didn't want to fit over the sub.

I took the wire off, but made a lever for the passenger side.

I'll get a picture of it in position in the morning. I'm bushed....

It's NO Fluke... I cherish that meter.

I bought it WAY back, on a trip to Wise or MJM electronics.

I had made a couple of bucks parting out main boards from some DEW station my dad had bought at auction.

Of course my Simpson 260 is the gem of my meters. But I didn't need instant response.

That thing is GOLD when you are shifting around a harness looking for a fault.

It reacts where a digital meter is just thinking about responding.

I also have a Meterman 33XL that is my knockabout meter.

It's in the truck ALWAYS.

Shaun,

Yeah. I'm usually ok, but when I'm kneeling next to the truck, my glasses are fogging and I'm just out of hands, it is a real lifesaver.

So, I just got my sway bar hardware, and despite it being from the same vendor, and packaged identically...

They're two different links. 😖

I guess I'm going to have to match my surviving link and rebuild it with the Moog bushings I already have?

For Gary:

The handle I made

And fully extended (disengaged)

[kramttocs]

So, I just got my sway bar hardware, and despite it being from the same vendor, and packaged identically...

They're two different links. 😖

I guess I'm going to have to match my surviving link and rebuild it with the Moog bushings I already have?

For Gary:

The handle I made

And fully extended (disengaged)

Bad deal on the links

Handle looks great though!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bad deal on the links

Handle looks great though!

I think the willful witch is just getting back at me for all the years of neglect and abuse...

She's doing a good job too!!!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think the willful witch is just getting back at me for all the years of neglect and abuse...

She's doing a good job too!!! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

Link acid, washed and painted.

I guess I'll be back at it in the morning. 😐

[ArdWrknTrk]

Link acid, washed and painted.

I guess I'll be back at it in the morning. 😐

Ok, a question for you audiophiles..

My head unit is 'rated' 45W RMS & 100W max, x 4 channels.

Since it looks like I'm getting new speakers, should I be looking for a pair closest to this without going under, or is more okay (say 75 RMS & 150-200 max?)

I'd think I want speakers matched to output, so I don't fall short driving them.

But I admit my ignorance and am looking for seasoned advice without turning to the cesspool of the internet.

I'm sure I could call Crutchfield, give them my order number and ask for rear channel speakers, but I don't want to waste their time asking them to explain it to me.

(And I do want to see the logic behind it)

TIA

[kramttocs]

Ok, a question for you audiophiles..

My head unit is 'rated' 45W RMS & 100W max, x 4 channels.

Since it looks like I'm getting new speakers, should I be looking for a pair closest to this without going under, or is more okay (say 75 RMS & 150-200 max?)

I'd think I want speakers matched to output, so I don't fall short driving them.

But I admit my ignorance and am looking for seasoned advice without turning to the cesspool of the internet.

I'm sure I could call Crutchfield, give them my order number and ask for rear channel speakers, but I don't want to waste their time asking them to explain it to me.

(And I do want to see the logic behind it)

TIA

Genuinely interested in the responses you get on this Jim. I am no audiophile but enjoy the theory and discussion of this stuff.

Did some research and talking to some local audio shops (getting to be fewer and fewer around here) when planning out my truck.

What I pieced together was having them close but the amp being a little more was good. This avoids clipping but you do run the risk of blowing the speakers if you 'turn it to 11'.

For instance my speakers are 100RMS and my amp is 125RMS per bridged channel. Each speaker is on its own channel from the amp.