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And I'm trying!

The rain quit.

My Haynes manual is no help (really??? :nabble_anim_confused:)

But I look at Gary's '86 EVTM and see that pk/lb is feed on the right and ground on the left... what the Heck Ford!

But there's a splice so I'm going to ohm out the gr/or wire and the one that hits will be the other channel.

Though I can't understand why the EVTM shows right channel to the left side of illustration.

Shouldn't diagrams be as seated (facing forward) in the vehicle?

Anyway with this revelation I'm off to go play in the mud.

Looking forward to your report and pics, Jim. PROGRESS!

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that looks like premium sound connectors. chop em. Brutus had the same thing in the doors he came with 6x9's. even if it's in tact, they break rel easy, just get rid of it

Jim, we love Ford, but they do some messed up stuff. for example, 72 thru 79 ford midsize with the lights, not gauges. The alternator loop start is connected through the alternator light. If the light goes bad your alternator wont charge. Unfortunately, the bullnose trucks are rather a mess when it comes to wireing. They didn't start to get it straight until the model change in 87 when the integrated most of it into the main harness. The Bullnose as we all know came in from anywhere from a farm truck to a fully loaded beast like Brutus. when you got a particular option you got a seperate outrigger harness for that option, they weren't like the cars where even if they were stripped, all the harness's were there for everything. We are pretty lucky Nick knows ford wireing like the back of his hand, but sometimes even gives him a run for his money, but always ends up getting it in the end. you will too

 

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Jim, we love Ford, but they do some messed up stuff. for example, 72 thru 79 ford midsize with the lights, not gauges. The alternator loop start is connected through the alternator light. If the light goes bad your alternator wont charge. Unfortunately, the bullnose trucks are rather a mess when it comes to wireing. They didn't start to get it straight until the model change in 87 when the integrated most of it into the main harness. The Bullnose as we all know came in from anywhere from a farm truck to a fully loaded beast like Brutus. when you got a particular option you got a seperate outrigger harness for that option, they weren't like the cars where even if they were stripped, all the harness's were there for everything. We are pretty lucky Nick knows ford wireing like the back of his hand, but sometimes even gives him a run for his money, but always ends up getting it in the end. you will too

I'm still trying to figure out the four wires in that plug.

From the '86 EVTM two of them should be spliced together, but no matter what combo I try they are all reading 1-2 M so I guess my manual is correct (except for the colors!)

Man I hate [solid State] in Ford's schematics.

Like I've said before, it's having a map with "thar be Dragons here" in the one place you need to go.

It was a bugger to get the plastic connector off those little spades.

I may go to the hobby shop and pick up a couple of the SAE connectors they use for RC battery packs.

There was very little "premium" about this truck. :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

It did come with a headliner..

So, I need to get the pairs and polarity right before I can put the kick panel and still cover back on. 😖

I guess the radio comes out, again?

Interesting about the '70's vehicles.

A Bullnose charge indicator should have a 512 ohm resistor paralleled across the trace on the flex.

My 87 came with a bulb holder that has a resistor right on the back of it.

Either way, that should be enough to bootstrap the alternator.

I took a break before I lost my mind, and moved on to changing out the front driveshaft universals that I couldn't get grease through when I was in Vermont.

With that, it seems all I need to finish is changing the radiator support bushings so I can get the hood to close...

Poor neglected truck.

Losing the transfer case far from home was the first time it's really left me stranded.

The fuel pump wore the arm right off its pivot, but I was only a block from Advance.

 

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I'm still trying to figure out the four wires in that plug.

From the '86 EVTM two of them should be spliced together, but no matter what combo I try they are all reading 1-2 M so I guess my manual is correct (except for the colors!)

Man I hate [solid State] in Ford's schematics.

Like I've said before, it's having a map with "thar be Dragons here" in the one place you need to go.

It was a bugger to get the plastic connector off those little spades.

I may go to the hobby shop and pick up a couple of the SAE connectors they use for RC battery packs.

There was very little "premium" about this truck. :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

It did come with a headliner..

So, I need to get the pairs and polarity right before I can put the kick panel and still cover back on. 😖

I guess the radio comes out, again?

Interesting about the '70's vehicles.

A Bullnose charge indicator should have a 512 ohm resistor paralleled across the trace on the flex.

My 87 came with a bulb holder that has a resistor right on the back of it.

Either way, that should be enough to bootstrap the alternator.

I took a break before I lost my mind, and moved on to changing out the front driveshaft universals that I couldn't get grease through when I was in Vermont.

With that, it seems all I need to finish is changing the radiator support bushings so I can get the hood to close...

Poor neglected truck.

Losing the transfer case far from home was the first time it's really left me stranded.

The fuel pump wore the arm right off its pivot, but I was only a block from Advance.

Jim, you may not have to pull the radio again. Did you get the back speakers working? If not, i'm going to get Nck in on this, he will get you going.

If you did, and you need to check polarity, you can do this with your ears.

I believe you are just having trouble with the rear correct?

If they are working. balance the radio's fader to the back speakers. Sit between them, turn the balance control to one side, do you hear more bass? balance them back to the middle, does the bass go away? if so 1 speaker s out of phase

If you know your front ones are correct, fade to the middle, then balance to the left side, do the same thing, this time listen to the front and back speaker, if there is a hole in the middle, you found the rear speaker that is out of phase, if it sounds correct, move to the right side, do it again.

Or pull the head unit and do the battery pop test. Disconnect the wires going to one of the speakers, take a aa battery, take the wires put one on negative and tap the other on the positive of the battery, look at the speaker, does it push out or pull in. if it pushes out, the wire you have on the positive of the battery is your positive wire, if it pulls in, reverse them. Do this for all of them and you can ensure proper phase.

Not sure if you are going to be working on it today, but if you need nick. email me and ill get him for you. if not let me know later, ill check back after work

Just so we know, what year and make are you working on, and what factory stereo came in it? from the wire harness it looks like later 80's

\

George

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Jim, you may not have to pull the radio again. Did you get the back speakers working? If not, i'm going to get Nck in on this, he will get you going.

If you did, and you need to check polarity, you can do this with your ears.

I believe you are just having trouble with the rear correct?

If they are working. balance the radio's fader to the back speakers. Sit between them, turn the balance control to one side, do you hear more bass? balance them back to the middle, does the bass go away? if so 1 speaker s out of phase

If you know your front ones are correct, fade to the middle, then balance to the left side, do the same thing, this time listen to the front and back speaker, if there is a hole in the middle, you found the rear speaker that is out of phase, if it sounds correct, move to the right side, do it again.

Or pull the head unit and do the battery pop test. Disconnect the wires going to one of the speakers, take a aa battery, take the wires put one on negative and tap the other on the positive of the battery, look at the speaker, does it push out or pull in. if it pushes out, the wire you have on the positive of the battery is your positive wire, if it pulls in, reverse them. Do this for all of them and you can ensure proper phase.

Not sure if you are going to be working on it today, but if you need nick. email me and ill get him for you. if not let me know later, ill check back after work

Just so we know, what year and make are you working on, and what factory stereo came in it? from the wire harness it looks like later 80's

\

George

George - I'd read about the polarity test with the AA battery, but had forgotten. Good idea!

As for the bass test for phasing, I'd not read about that one. That's a good trick.

Jim - You've just let years of maintenance pile up, so you have lots of layers of the onion to peel. Plenty of crying, but a whole lot of onion rings at the end. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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George - I'd read about the polarity test with the AA battery, but had forgotten. Good idea!

As for the bass test for phasing, I'd not read about that one. That's a good trick.

Jim - You've just let years of maintenance pile up, so you have lots of layers of the onion to peel. Plenty of crying, but a whole lot of onion rings at the end. :nabble_smiley_wink:

And...you know, I don't cry cutting onions. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Since this pandemic I'm a lot better about washing my hands before I touch my face.

Yes, it's about being too busy for myself.

Not that I'm procrastinating.

Notice I've had almost all these parts, just waiting for a 'good' opportunity.

Now I'm being selfish, and fixing everything I took off before it goes back on.

Next I need one of my tow buddies to happen on a bricknose truck with a red interior and good doors.

I can get cards and pull a bench seat to bring to New Jersey.

 

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George - I'd read about the polarity test with the AA battery, but had forgotten. Good idea!

As for the bass test for phasing, I'd not read about that one. That's a good trick.

Jim - You've just let years of maintenance pile up, so you have lots of layers of the onion to peel. Plenty of crying, but a whole lot of onion rings at the end. :nabble_smiley_wink:

yea Gary, it works out in a pinch of you cant get to the wires, but does get tricky when more then 2 speakes are in use

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I took a break before I lost my mind, and moved on to changing out the front driveshaft universals that I couldn't get grease through when I was in Vermont.

With that, it seems all I need to finish is changing the radiator support bushings so I can get the hood to close...

Poor neglected truck.

It's the myraid layers of frustration.

My new universals came with grease fittings in the end caps.

Okay, I've got my tiny pistol grease gun with one of those for chainsaw bars.

I get under the truck and get two good squeezes.....

Ok, I'll put that tip on one of my two air rifle pump type grease guns.

Getting the needle tip off was a challenge.

Putting it on the other flex hose gun (with no flats or knurling) was like fighting a snotty eel.

I have the other big gun... I can lube the drag link and ball joints I was supposed to replace last year!

I get to the last upper ball joint and run out of grease.

Usually, I'd just grab the other one.

But...

I try to force it into the universal, and kink the hose right at the head creating a leak.

I dig in my bin looking for another tube of grease.

I KNOW I just bought one..

Oh! That's right.

I bought it in Vermont, and while I finally found Bill's grease gun in his disaster of a garage I used his grease and left the tube behind (because I'm considerate and do that sort of thing if I borrow something of yours)

And now... it's raining.

This is my life, every day.

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I took a break before I lost my mind, and moved on to changing out the front driveshaft universals that I couldn't get grease through when I was in Vermont.

With that, it seems all I need to finish is changing the radiator support bushings so I can get the hood to close...

Poor neglected truck.

It's the myraid layers of frustration.

My new universals came with grease fittings in the end caps.

Okay, I've got my tiny pistol grease gun with one of those for chainsaw bars.

I get under the truck and get two good squeezes.....

Ok, I'll put that tip on one of my two air rifle pump type grease guns.

Getting the needle tip off was a challenge.

Putting it on the other flex hose gun (with no flats or knurling) was like fighting a snotty eel.

I have the other big gun... I can lube the drag link and ball joints I was supposed to replace last year!

I get to the last upper ball joint and run out of grease.

Usually, I'd just grab the other one.

But...

I try to force it into the universal, and kink the hose right at the head creating a leak.

I dig in my bin looking for another tube of grease.

I KNOW I just bought one..

Oh! That's right.

I bought it in Vermont, and while I finally found Bill's grease gun in his disaster of a garage I used his grease and left the tube behind (because I'm considerate and do that sort of thing if I borrow something of yours)

And now... it's raining.

This is my life, every day.

:nabble_smiley_oh_no:

That sounds like a lot frustration! But, I've been there and had that day. No fun!

Hang in there, tomorrow should be better.

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