ArdWrknTrk Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 They just coupled it together. A sure sign your heater core has a hole in it.... It's not too hard to replace. You just have to remove the glove box to get at the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 I think you have advanced and retarded confused there Rusty. Retarded is not "too early" Advanced has the piston pushing up against the expanding flame front, and since there is a flywheel and other cylinders pushing too, it keeps going. Detonation (knock) is the supersonic shock wave inside your cylinders. As we know, chemical reactions (like burning, oxidation) increase with both heat and pressure. The very principle of an ICE is to use heat, to create pressure in a closed vessel, to push the piston down (in most cases ) let's just say out of the cylinder... But when you have the heat and expansion happening too early on the up-stroke the power doesn't chase the piston down, but fights it coming up. Decreasing combustion volume creates more heat, which creates more pressure... it's a chain reaction of terminal mass, as there's not enough room for the expanding combustion by-products. I got it reversed, I did reading on this with a 66 vette I put a sniper on the guy swears up and down that its the EFI causing his overheating problem but the guy bought the car from another guy and the other guy is claiming it never over heated but he never drove it and he added a electric fan keeping the mechanical fan. This is where I did reading and it was too far advanced generates excessive heat and retarded will result in now power but no real heat generation and we checked everything on that car. He didnt use late model vortec intake gaskets that was blocking the coolant port, thermostat was gutted and still did the same thing, radiator not blocked off, water pump was flowing and we even threw another one on there just incase, we even pulled the drain plugs to see if the block was creted which it wasnt. Also checked timing and it was with in spec of 12* initial. Car left on a flat bed yesterday cause the guy didnt want us to pull the engine out and run it on a test stand to isolate the engine from the car and see if it would still go from cold to 240*F idling in the matter of 10 minutes. Guy was still adament it was the EFI even though handheld is showing the A/F ratio was 13.5:1 which was slightly rich which would provide a cooling effect on the engine not a overheat effect. If it was super lean around 15:1 or 17:1 then yeah maybe that could have an effect on the overheating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 It's not too hard to replace. You just have to remove the glove box to get at the case. Yep. Parts aren’t too expensive either. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Yep. Parts aren’t too expensive either. Thanks! If those are 1983 Motorcraft hoses you might want to buy 10' of 5/8 hose as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 If those are 1983 Motorcraft hoses you might want to buy 10' of 5/8 hose as well. Scratch the length. I don't know how many feet a 300 needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 Scratch the length. I don't know how many feet a 300 needs. Update on the work. Lots of frustration. I definitely had a leaky heater core. I found a motorcraft brass/copper one on ebay from JC Whitney but it arrived damaged. It was the last one they had in stock and it looks like it was nearly the last one anyone had easily available. Ford discontinued it so I’ll likely have to go with an aluminum aftermarket one unfortunately. On the EFI prep, I have the carb off and all the intake bolts loose. I’m really struggling to get off the pipe that goes from the EGR system to the exhaust manifold. I just don’t have 27mm wrenches and I’m reticent to purchase one. The real problem with that pipe is than I can’t get the intake off with it there. I guess I’ll have to cut it, but I don’t really have any cutting tools either. Now that’s a tool I’m probably willing to purchase... Which gets me to the exhaust. I’m just checking out what I’m going to need to do to get this new Y exhaust hooked up - specifically, where it’ll attach to my existing exhaust and muffler. I’ve never done exhaust work, but it looks like I’ll need to cut the new Y piece too to get it attached. It’s hard to tell though. Maybe it’ll bolt right on. Anyway. 5 hours later and not much progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Update on the work. Lots of frustration. I definitely had a leaky heater core. I found a motorcraft brass/copper one on ebay from JC Whitney but it arrived damaged. It was the last one they had in stock and it looks like it was nearly the last one anyone had easily available. Ford discontinued it so I’ll likely have to go with an aluminum aftermarket one unfortunately. On the EFI prep, I have the carb off and all the intake bolts loose. I’m really struggling to get off the pipe that goes from the EGR system to the exhaust manifold. I just don’t have 27mm wrenches and I’m reticent to purchase one. The real problem with that pipe is than I can’t get the intake off with it there. I guess I’ll have to cut it, but I don’t really have any cutting tools either. Now that’s a tool I’m probably willing to purchase... Which gets me to the exhaust. I’m just checking out what I’m going to need to do to get this new Y exhaust hooked up - specifically, where it’ll attach to my existing exhaust and muffler. I’ve never done exhaust work, but it looks like I’ll need to cut the new Y piece too to get it attached. It’s hard to tell though. Maybe it’ll bolt right on. Anyway. 5 hours later and not much progress. 27mm is VERY close to 1 1/16" I have that size for lug nuts and expect my six point impact socket would whip that nut off easily, if I cut the tube out of the way. But I also have a good amount of tools, and own combination wrenches --> 36mm. Aluminum is a much better heat conductor than brass. Yeah, you can't repair it with solder and a propane torch, but beyond that it's better in every way. Sometimes you just need to take a break and do something else. Lord knows I've had my share of truck frustration the past couple of months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 Update on the work. Lots of frustration. I definitely had a leaky heater core. I found a motorcraft brass/copper one on ebay from JC Whitney but it arrived damaged. It was the last one they had in stock and it looks like it was nearly the last one anyone had easily available. Ford discontinued it so I’ll likely have to go with an aluminum aftermarket one unfortunately. On the EFI prep, I have the carb off and all the intake bolts loose. I’m really struggling to get off the pipe that goes from the EGR system to the exhaust manifold. I just don’t have 27mm wrenches and I’m reticent to purchase one. The real problem with that pipe is than I can’t get the intake off with it there. I guess I’ll have to cut it, but I don’t really have any cutting tools either. Now that’s a tool I’m probably willing to purchase... Which gets me to the exhaust. I’m just checking out what I’m going to need to do to get this new Y exhaust hooked up - specifically, where it’ll attach to my existing exhaust and muffler. I’ve never done exhaust work, but it looks like I’ll need to cut the new Y piece too to get it attached. It’s hard to tell though. Maybe it’ll bolt right on. Anyway. 5 hours later and not much progress. I forgot to ask, which Y-pipe did you go with? While I imagine most brands will have the joint in the same place, I'm not too sure about the 300. I know when we did Josiahs truck the Walker pipe needed drilled out where the Y was welded together. Not difficult with a 1 7/8" hole saw and an extension, but it was severely restricted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 I forgot to ask, which Y-pipe did you go with? While I imagine most brands will have the joint in the same place, I'm not too sure about the 300. I know when we did Josiahs truck the Walker pipe needed drilled out where the Y was welded together. Not difficult with a 1 7/8" hole saw and an extension, but it was severely restricted. I found this one. I have no idea if it’ll fit correctly but it was on a list of parts for doing this on a 300. https://www.carid.com/walker/aluminized-2-bolt-flange-y-pipe-with-spherical-flare-mpn-45166.html?singleid=1370929768?utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_tracking_number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 I found this one. I have no idea if it’ll fit correctly but it was on a list of parts for doing this on a 300. https://www.carid.com/walker/aluminized-2-bolt-flange-y-pipe-with-spherical-flare-mpn-45166.html?singleid=1370929768?utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_tracking_number Not a fan of crinkle bends because I know they disrupt flow and rust like crazy, but it does have an O2 bung so that's a step towards EFI! Just look down the sprue and make sure the path is clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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