Rusty_S85 Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 There really can't be a crossover on a 300, where the intake is hanging entirely off the right side of the engine. Waiting for coolant temp to get up to where it can make a difference is literally like watching water boil. Correct, but if I remember right on the I6`s the carb sits on the intake which makes up part of the exhaust that helps to warm the bottom side of the intake up to help the fuel vaporize quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Jim, I do believe Gary has a list of all the vacuum acronyms we could gather. I know that back on FTE we put together a list that was stickied. While it might not have Engine Control Unit, Powertrain Control Module, Thick Film Transistor, Spark Out, Profile Ignition Pickup or Electronic Engine Control, it does have a bunch of the mystery vacuum initials like Thermal Vacuum Switch and Vacuum Control Valve. This is all I have, this is my entire vacuum acronym list, the one I posted above is a quick cheat sheet as its the most common ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Correct, but if I remember right on the I6`s the carb sits on the intake which makes up part of the exhaust that helps to warm the bottom side of the intake up to help the fuel vaporize quickly. And he's just said he is using the dual EFI manifolds that have no provision for heat because they don't even meet under the plenum... But, yes most carbed 300's can have a heated floor, if they retain the stock exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 This is all I have, this is my entire vacuum acronym list, the one I posted above is a quick cheat sheet as its the most common ones. That's really comprehensive Rusty! Would you mind sharing it with Gary, and the forum? I can see where that's a great reference for many members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 And he's just said he is using the dual EFI manifolds that have no provision for heat because they don't even meet under the plenum... But, yes most carbed 300's can have a heated floor, if they retain the stock exhaust. Ah, I must have missed the part about the EFI manifolds. In that case I would try to run the heated part of the aircleaner. Sure with EFI you dont really need it cause it has a air temp sensor to compensate the air/fuel ratio. But question that I have always wondered what the difference in warm up time between hot air intake and no hot air intake. We know pulling in warm air will help to warm the engine up faster than pulling in ice cold air. But at the same time I am curious if it will cause a driveability problem with the sniper setup by throwing the fuel table off tricking the ECU into thinking its warmer than it really is. But knowing about the system I dont see how it could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrazerJames Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 Ah, I must have missed the part about the EFI manifolds. In that case I would try to run the heated part of the aircleaner. Sure with EFI you dont really need it cause it has a air temp sensor to compensate the air/fuel ratio. But question that I have always wondered what the difference in warm up time between hot air intake and no hot air intake. We know pulling in warm air will help to warm the engine up faster than pulling in ice cold air. But at the same time I am curious if it will cause a driveability problem with the sniper setup by throwing the fuel table off tricking the ECU into thinking its warmer than it really is. But knowing about the system I dont see how it could. That’s incredibly helpful! Thanks! Here’s the heat plate for the Edelbrock I ordered. http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Ah, I must have missed the part about the EFI manifolds. In that case I would try to run the heated part of the aircleaner. Sure with EFI you dont really need it cause it has a air temp sensor to compensate the air/fuel ratio. But question that I have always wondered what the difference in warm up time between hot air intake and no hot air intake. We know pulling in warm air will help to warm the engine up faster than pulling in ice cold air. But at the same time I am curious if it will cause a driveability problem with the sniper setup by throwing the fuel table off tricking the ECU into thinking its warmer than it really is. But knowing about the system I dont see how it could. I don't think its really tricking the ECU at all, Rusty. Coolant temp is what it is. Intake charge temp is what IT is. It will certainly lessen or prevent icing of the carb or (in your case) throttle body. And that's never a bad thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 That’s incredibly helpful! Thanks! Here’s the heat plate for the Edelbrock I ordered. http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8 That looks like a nice unit! It will certainly help with charge atomization in cold weather, once the coolant gets up to temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 I don't think its really tricking the ECU at all, Rusty. Coolant temp is what it is. Intake charge temp is what IT is. It will certainly lessen or prevent icing of the carb or (in your case) throttle body. And that's never a bad thing. Thats what I figured. You have the ECT and the IAT. It shouldnt matter if its 30* outside and the engine is at 100* and the intake temp is 100* from the heat riser. It should all work fine regardless. I just have to cobble the system together as best as I can since I will be omitting some circuits that I wont be using with the fuel injection since the efi can take over. I know icing is less of a problem with a tbi but it still can happen. Ive had GM TBI`s at work at idle and in 20 minutes on a 80* day the TBI was sweating its butt off from the temperature drop due to the pressure differential. I could just imagine the icing forming if it was a 50* or 60* day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Thats what I figured. You have the ECT and the IAT. It shouldnt matter if its 30* outside and the engine is at 100* and the intake temp is 100* from the heat riser. It should all work fine regardless. I just have to cobble the system together as best as I can since I will be omitting some circuits that I wont be using with the fuel injection since the efi can take over. I know icing is less of a problem with a tbi but it still can happen. Ive had GM TBI`s at work at idle and in 20 minutes on a 80* day the TBI was sweating its butt off from the temperature drop due to the pressure differential. I could just imagine the icing forming if it was a 50* or 60* day. It's not just the venturi Rusty. Every bit of that fuel needs to evaporate, and that consumes heat. The phase change between liquid and vapor takes many times the amount of heat it takes to bring a liquid to boiling (which it MUST do before becoming a vapor) A jet atomizing a liquid tremendously increases the surface area, but in order to become a vapor, rather than an aerosol it needs to phase change. /Geek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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