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Wiring mods on Brutus


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you can never have to much insulution Jim. Under brutis carpet in addition to the factory pad, i have carpet underlayment and the doors are lined with it as well. Carpet underlayment is my go to for just about everything, it makes everything quiet and is In my opinion anyway, the best speaker insulation you can get.

I didn't think so.

But as you can tell, I'm no audiophile either so I thought better to ask before I did something I'd regret.

Off solder up the adapters and get the cab stripped out.

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I didn't think so.

But as you can tell, I'm no audiophile either so I thought better to ask before I did something I'd regret.

Off solder up the adapters and get the cab stripped out.

Main interior harness's done, power window harness and remote door lock harness in place

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Main interior harness's done, power window harness and remote door lock harness in place

Jim I looked at all your stuff. i think it's going to sound pretty good once you are done. From what i can see your sub remotely turns on with the radio so you are good there. In our situation, Nick has a hot wire connected to the fuse box on switchd line using a 25 amp fuse. We did this this way for this reason. When the truck is running and we dont the stereo on, the amp will remain off. Most of the time when people connect amps, they connect them to the battery, meaning the amp will have available power all the time when connected to the radio via the remote turn wire. Ours turns on the same way, with the remote turn on wire from the radio, but the circuit will remain dead until the signal from the remote turn on wire is sent. Nick likes the amp to be disconnected from the battery when the truck is off. Unlike the other amps that have available power all the time. But remember , this is not a big powerful amp, is only 50 watts, the 25 amp circuit is more then enough for it. you can choose to do it this way or connect to the battery which is usually what the manufacturer suggests. it really does not matter which way you do it. Doing it through the fuse box is neater and you dont have power running into your amp all the time. Other then that just make sure when your ground the sub, ground it in the SAME PLACE as the radio is. you can can ground where the sub is located, but ground where the radio is as well. other then that it's pretty straight forward.

george

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Jim I looked at all your stuff. i think it's going to sound pretty good once you are done. From what i can see your sub remotely turns on with the radio so you are good there. In our situation, Nick has a hot wire connected to the fuse box on switchd line using a 25 amp fuse. We did this this way for this reason. When the truck is running and we dont the stereo on, the amp will remain off. Most of the time when people connect amps, they connect them to the battery, meaning the amp will have available power all the time when connected to the radio via the remote turn wire. Ours turns on the same way, with the remote turn on wire from the radio, but the circuit will remain dead until the signal from the remote turn on wire is sent. Nick likes the amp to be disconnected from the battery when the truck is off. Unlike the other amps that have available power all the time. But remember , this is not a big powerful amp, is only 50 watts, the 25 amp circuit is more then enough for it. you can choose to do it this way or connect to the battery which is usually what the manufacturer suggests. it really does not matter which way you do it. Doing it through the fuse box is neater and you dont have power running into your amp all the time. Other then that just make sure when your ground the sub, ground it in the SAME PLACE as the radio is. you can can ground where the sub is located, but ground where the radio is as well. other then that it's pretty straight forward.

george

That's great advice!

I'll be sure to make all my grounds in the same place.

So should I use line In, or right and left pre-amp channels?

I'm looking forward to having a bit more bass than the two 8" speakers on the rear channel I have in a box behind my seat.

Appreciate all your advice, and glad I didn't make stupid decisions when selecting this stuff.

Sorry for hijacking your thread. :nabble_smiley_blush:

 

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That's great advice!

I'll be sure to make all my grounds in the same place.

So should I use line In, or right and left pre-amp channels?

I'm looking forward to having a bit more bass than the two 8" speakers on the rear channel I have in a box behind my seat.

Appreciate all your advice, and glad I didn't make stupid decisions when selecting this stuff.

Sorry for hijacking your thread. :nabble_smiley_blush:

it depends on what your radio has. the line in and the left and right are the same thing, the single line in is a stereo connector. if the radio has a single stereo line out, or sub out, then use it, less wire, but in the end is the same thing

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it depends on what your radio has. the line in and the left and right are the same thing, the single line in is a stereo connector. if the radio has a single stereo line out, or sub out, then use it, less wire, but in the end is the same thing

It has both, like I said...

I'm of a mind to use the Sub-out RCA jacks rather than the Molex with the rear channel.

But I'm no expert

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Dome light delay. After the driver door is closed the inside lights will stay lit for about 30 seconds.

If the engine is started or the key is turned to accessories, the delay is canceled. This only works on the driver door.

I have a couple of questions about this delay board.

Is that a wire glued over the cap to hold it down, or just a dribble from where you have used the glue to hold it to the board?

I used some hot melt back in the day but most of our stuff we had to grind all markings off the packages and pot the whole thing in Coltronics... for reasons I can't go into.

2) is that mosfet ok with just the mounting screw to sink?

Maybe the 30 seconds "on" time limits how much it really heats up?

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