Rusty_S85 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 The crankshaft pulley. I mean that's the driving one. Anything else would be just overwhelming whatever belt was on there. But that's the issue. You need to find a crank pulley with equal sheaves. Otherwise you're trying to drive the alternator at two different speeds. I sent Gary my dual sheave alternator pulley, because I don't seem to need it. I'm not driving a big winch or a 3000W inverter. The 2000W inverter I have seems ok with my single belt and battery. You are running the 130A 3G arent you? I think I remember you saying that when I did my post while back about trying to find a 95A small case with the wide ear spacing used on the I6 and diesel engines that apparently doesnt exist anymore. More I think about it, the more I am just thinking about doing like you just run one belt on a 130A 3G and just get the delay regulator and tighten the belt like a tight rope and hope for the best even though I never could produce more than 100A with a single belt but maybe I could considering the belt wrap is 180* worth of pulley which does help with bite better so than one that is only 90* worth of the pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Jim is right - crankshaft pulley and I have an 8-page microanalysis of the subject somewhere. But to summarize, both pulleys are hard to find. Most alternator and crankshaft pulleys I found had a different belt size for one groove vs the other. But that's not going to work, for several reasons. One, you aren't able to get both belts tight at the same time. Another, they are going to want to run at slightly different speeds. But, you can find the pulleys. Id be interested in seeing that article if you happen to stumble across it. I am not against going with a dual belt setup but I have to see how I could do it as I have a dealer A/C which as far as I know has a different belt setup than a factory A/C setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 You are running the 130A 3G arent you? I think I remember you saying that when I did my post while back about trying to find a 95A small case with the wide ear spacing used on the I6 and diesel engines that apparently doesnt exist anymore. More I think about it, the more I am just thinking about doing like you just run one belt on a 130A 3G and just get the delay regulator and tighten the belt like a tight rope and hope for the best even though I never could produce more than 100A with a single belt but maybe I could considering the belt wrap is 180* worth of pulley which does help with bite better so than one that is only 90* worth of the pulley. Don't tighten like that. There's no reason to trash the bearings. Just start the truck within 10 seconds of turning the key to 'run', or click it back to off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Don't tighten like that. There's no reason to trash the bearings. Just start the truck within 10 seconds of turning the key to 'run', or click it back to off. Well I will have to see I know with snipers you have to way 2 to 3 seconds before cranking for fuel prime. Some claim with a proper tune you dont have to wait 2 to 3 seconds but the prime is always 2 to 3 seconds as that is boot up time for the ECU. On the tight rope aspect I just mean tight to where there is no deflection. Normally on stock applications I do around 1/4 to 5/16 inch deflection but when I go tight rope tight I pull till there is no kind of deflection in the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Well I will have to see I know with snipers you have to way 2 to 3 seconds before cranking for fuel prime. Some claim with a proper tune you dont have to wait 2 to 3 seconds but the prime is always 2 to 3 seconds as that is boot up time for the ECU. On the tight rope aspect I just mean tight to where there is no deflection. Normally on stock applications I do around 1/4 to 5/16 inch deflection but when I go tight rope tight I pull till there is no kind of deflection in the belt. If this computer can do all this stuff, why not have IT make the exciter connection? Then the clock won't be ticking until the fi system is up to pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 If this computer can do all this stuff, why not have IT make the exciter connection? Then the clock won't be ticking until the fi system is up to pressure. Maybe I'm just too stupid to realize it's limitations... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Maybe I'm just too stupid to realize it's limitations... I dont honestly know everything its capable of doing I didnt know the base like sniper was capable of even being used to cut the AC on wot. But it does I thought that was only a feature of the high dollar terminator. I also found out you can use the basic sniper to trigger nitrous even. I would have to look but its quite possible that there is something in there that can be switched to provide a signal when running. Draw back is I would need a relay as anything the sniper controls is only on the 5v scale to trigger relays and not to provide actual battery voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 I dont honestly know everything its capable of doing I didnt know the base like sniper was capable of even being used to cut the AC on wot. But it does I thought that was only a feature of the high dollar terminator. I also found out you can use the basic sniper to trigger nitrous even. I would have to look but its quite possible that there is something in there that can be switched to provide a signal when running. Draw back is I would need a relay as anything the sniper controls is only on the 5v scale to trigger relays and not to provide actual battery voltage. That may be enough to 'tickle' the alternator into charging. Once it gets going it bootstraps itself. Stator voltage is only around 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 That may be enough to 'tickle' the alternator into charging. Once it gets going it bootstraps itself. Stator voltage is only around 7 It might be. I just will give it a try like it is and then when I go and have the custom tune put in I will see, I have seen lots of people state with a proper custom tune you really dont need to wait for prime. But in the manual it states cranking without waiting for prime will result in a TBI like spin over where the engine will crank a bit then start. With prime it will fire off like a carb with one hit of the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted August 14, 2020 Author Share Posted August 14, 2020 It might be. I just will give it a try like it is and then when I go and have the custom tune put in I will see, I have seen lots of people state with a proper custom tune you really dont need to wait for prime. But in the manual it states cranking without waiting for prime will result in a TBI like spin over where the engine will crank a bit then start. With prime it will fire off like a carb with one hit of the throttle. Honestly I think I'm more uncertain now than ever. I was happily going to purchase the 130 amp unit that Gary suggested from DB Electric, but now I'm tempted to upgrade to the 170 amp unit from Bronco Graveyard. They seem to think that you can get by with just a slightly tighter belt. Do you guys believe them? https://shop.broncograveyard.com/High-Output-Alternator-170-Amp-V-groove-Pulley/productinfo/38612/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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