Best alternator option?

[Rusty_S85]

I recommend the 3G as well. Just dont make it as complicated as I am with trying to find a small case 95A alternator with the wide ear spacing cause it may have existed at one time but no longer does. I thought about checking with the local alternator shop to see if they could build me a large case 3G but have it with the 95A rating as I have no plans to upgrade to a serpentine belt.

Also check rockauto, ive seen some brand new 3G`s on there for as little as $85 when I looked a few months ago.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I recommend the 3G as well. Just dont make it as complicated as I am with trying to find a small case 95A alternator with the wide ear spacing cause it may have existed at one time but no longer does. I thought about checking with the local alternator shop to see if they could build me a large case 3G but have it with the 95A rating as I have no plans to upgrade to a serpentine belt.

Also check rockauto, ive seen some brand new 3G`s on there for as little as $85 when I looked a few months ago.

My new 3G was $70 delivered from DB Electrical...

[LARIAT 85]

I recommend the 3G as well. Just dont make it as complicated as I am with trying to find a small case 95A alternator with the wide ear spacing cause it may have existed at one time but no longer does. I thought about checking with the local alternator shop to see if they could build me a large case 3G but have it with the 95A rating as I have no plans to upgrade to a serpentine belt.

Also check rockauto, ive seen some brand new 3G`s on there for as little as $85 when I looked a few months ago.

Why does he need a 3G alternator if he has a carburetor? I have a 1G on Lucille and it works just fine. Am I missing something?

If you need more amps, here is another option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-85-FORD-MUSTANG-100-AMP-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR/264300553258?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[Machspeed]

It should be a 2G from all I've read, but it would be interesting to know.

So looking at photos in our reference area, I have a 2G on my truck. It is the original OEM unit. If I went to a 3G, would my harness plug right in to the new 3G alternator? What other possible modifications might be required?

[Gary Lewis]

I recommend the 3G as well. Just dont make it as complicated as I am with trying to find a small case 95A alternator with the wide ear spacing cause it may have existed at one time but no longer does. I thought about checking with the local alternator shop to see if they could build me a large case 3G but have it with the 95A rating as I have no plans to upgrade to a serpentine belt.

Also check rockauto, ive seen some brand new 3G`s on there for as little as $85 when I looked a few months ago.

Why does he need a 3G alternator if he has a carburetor? I have a 1G on Lucille and it works just fine. Am I missing something?

If you need more amps, here is another option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-85-FORD-MUSTANG-100-AMP-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR/264300553258?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

He said "I wouldn't mind having a little extra current to work with but I'm not looking to do anything radical." The 3G is the cheapest way to do that as he can get one delivered for $80 delivered where the one you listed is $145 delivered.

And at 100 and 130 amps, both require some change regarding the ammeter & shunt. So there's no difference there.

[Gary Lewis]

So looking at photos in our reference area, I have a 2G on my truck. It is the original OEM unit. If I went to a 3G, would my harness plug right in to the new 3G alternator? What other possible modifications might be required?

I do think part of your harness will plug in, but not all of it. The downfall of the 2G is the way the power lead connects, and that part will certainly not connect.

In addition, you have to do something about your ammeter and its associated shunt. That's explained to some extent on page, but basically the situation is that I believe the shunt is capable of handling a max of 70 amps. So if you go with an alternator that puts out more than that you should change the wiring and not run the output through the shunt.

One option is to just move the output to the starter relay's battery terminal. But in that case your ammeter will only show discharge as you turn on more and more accessories.

Another option is to have your ammeter turned into a voltmeter. That's the way I've gone on Big Blue.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I recommend the 3G as well. Just dont make it as complicated as I am with trying to find a small case 95A alternator with the wide ear spacing cause it may have existed at one time but no longer does. I thought about checking with the local alternator shop to see if they could build me a large case 3G but have it with the 95A rating as I have no plans to upgrade to a serpentine belt.

Also check rockauto, ive seen some brand new 3G`s on there for as little as $85 when I looked a few months ago.

Why does he need a 3G alternator if he has a carburetor? I have a 1G on Lucille and it works just fine. Am I missing something?

If you need more amps, here is another option:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-85-FORD-MUSTANG-100-AMP-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR/264300553258?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Why would anyone take the time, effort and money to buy a new harness and a fender mounted regulator to get less at redline than even the 95A 3G puts out at idle?

We're not talking about absolute load, because the existing harness can only handle so much.

But we ARE talking about ability to top off the battery after starting.

Or not having your headlamps dim when the turn signals flash.

Or keeping up with the blower and the high beams when crawling through a snow storm.

 

Or when leaving it running to stay warm when it's below zero, while you grab a coffee or pump gas.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Why would anyone take the time, effort and money to buy a new harness and a fender mounted regulator to get less at redline than even the 95A 3G puts out at idle?

We're not talking about absolute load, because the existing harness can only handle so much.

But we ARE talking about ability to top off the battery after starting.

Or not having your headlamps dim when the turn signals flash.

Or keeping up with the blower and the high beams when crawling through a snow storm.

 

Or when leaving it running to stay warm when it's below zero, while you grab a coffee or pump gas.

Jim - You have a good point that I missed. The alternator Rick linked to is a 1G and John's is a 2G. So, while that 100 amp alternator would work for Chad, it wouldn't work for John w/o some wiring changes.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - You have a good point that I missed. The alternator Rick linked to is a 1G and John's is a 2G. So, while that 100 amp alternator would work for Chad, it wouldn't work for John w/o some wiring changes.

I know the 1G regulator pigtail is available, but are those wires long enough to reach the alternator?

The separate charge cable seems a wash (maybe you'd want thicker for 130A)

The 3G only uses the lt gr/r wire going to the regulator plug.

You need an eylet for the yellow wire and the stator plug for the bk/w wire.

Both of these loop *maybe* 3" right back to the 3G.

Or you can buy that regulator plug already made up for ~$12 from eBay.

That seems a wash with having to buy a regulator to ground on the fender.

And sometimes that real estate is valuable!

[LARIAT 85]

Why would anyone take the time, effort and money to buy a new harness and a fender mounted regulator to get less at redline than even the 95A 3G puts out at idle?

We're not talking about absolute load, because the existing harness can only handle so much.

But we ARE talking about ability to top off the battery after starting.

Or not having your headlamps dim when the turn signals flash.

Or keeping up with the blower and the high beams when crawling through a snow storm.

 

Or when leaving it running to stay warm when it's below zero, while you grab a coffee or pump gas.

Are you telling me that Ford installed a 1G alternator in their vehicles from 1965 all the way to 1985, and it failed to top off the battery after starting?

And it dimmed the headlights when the turn signal flashed?

And it couldn't keep up with the blower and the high beams at the same time?

And it wouldn't stay running when the blower was on in temperatures below zero?

If that is what you are saying, I think you are seriously misleading the original poster.

Littlebeefy said he isn't doing anything "radical" to his truck. Perhaps someone should ask him what he plans to do to before everyone tells him to "upgrade" to a 3G alternator. There is a good chance his current standard-issue 1G alternator is just fine for his needs. My truck came with the 1G alternator along with a feedback carburetor and the EEC-IV engine computer and it worked just fine for over 20 years - and it didn't have any of the so-called "problems" you rattled off. If he actually NEEDS extra amps, then the 3G alternator IS a worthwhile upgrade - as long as he realizes what all he has to do to make it work on his truck.

And it is a lot.