Best alternator option?

[Gary Lewis]

Besides, she isn't even a Bullnose (on the outside)

This is a Ford show. Not a Bullnose show. As said, I’ll encourage Scott to enter his truck. And hopefully we will see an early Bronco - with a rock slider?

[ArdWrknTrk]

This is a Ford show. Not a Bullnose show. As said, I’ll encourage Scott to enter his truck. And hopefully we will see an early Bronco - with a rock slider?

I know there are some of us that are not representative.

But I don't see how a tired, hard working truck has a place in a show.

She's rusty, leaking, and down on optimal power.

While maybe representative of the typical 30+ year old work truck, nothing to celebrate...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I know there are some of us that are not representative.

But I don't see how a tired, hard working truck has a place in a show.

She's rusty, leaking, and down on optimal power.

While maybe representative of the typical 30+ year old work truck, nothing to celebrate...

Ok, it's after 10 here and time to go tick off the neighbors with my impact.

[Rusty_S85]

87A is normally closed, and 87 is closed when energized.

But the 'tounge' is shown in the 'out' position (quiescent) with the choke connected there.

The pull-in coil is by convention pulled in by current flowing through it.

The choke should be connected so it only gets power when the stator has power. (Alternator turning)

I'm gonna hound you.

But today is 'Church Day', as opposed to your other six Saturdays.

BTW, I trust your services went well yesterday.

I'm sorry to learn of the passing of one of your congregation.

Yep 87A is a very seldom used relay terminal when you are wiring a relay in. I think the only time Ive ever used 87A was for a brake pedal switch for torque converter lock up that locks up long as the wire is grounded and unlocks when you hit the brake which breaks the ground side of the circuit.

The other time is for my truck where for the A/C clutch wire has to go through 87A so it will be active all the time and then when the throttle hits full throttle the ECU will supply a ground to the relay to cut the compressor out.

Outside of that every other relay ive wired in has always been a trigger to activate not a trigger to deactivate.

I did think about using 87A for low beam and 87 for high beam to clean up my relay box though by reducing the relays down to one, but I didnt like it for the fact that if the relay failed then you lost all lights at least with two relays I would have one circuit to get me home.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yep 87A is a very seldom used relay terminal when you are wiring a relay in. I think the only time Ive ever used 87A was for a brake pedal switch for torque converter lock up that locks up long as the wire is grounded and unlocks when you hit the brake which breaks the ground side of the circuit.

The other time is for my truck where for the A/C clutch wire has to go through 87A so it will be active all the time and then when the throttle hits full throttle the ECU will supply a ground to the relay to cut the compressor out.

Outside of that every other relay ive wired in has always been a trigger to activate not a trigger to deactivate.

I did think about using 87A for low beam and 87 for high beam to clean up my relay box though by reducing the relays down to one, but I didnt like it for the fact that if the relay failed then you lost all lights at least with two relays I would have one circuit to get me home.

I had a headlamp relay harness.

It took a crap on the Jersey turnpike around 3AM.

I rolled to the shoulder and switched plugs.

NP

But I do have my fogs wired through my hi-beam 87A.

They can only be on with running lights, and never with the high beams.

[Rusty_S85]

I had a headlamp relay harness.

It took a crap on the Jersey turnpike around 3AM.

I rolled to the shoulder and switched plugs.

NP

But I do have my fogs wired through my hi-beam 87A.

They can only be on with running lights, and never with the high beams.

Nice, I have a headlamp relay harness as well but mine has two relays one for low beam and one for high beam. I have the high beam trigger branched out to the trigger for my driving lights that way my driving lights will only come on with my high beams and when I hit the dimmer switch they turn off.

Its legal to do it that way with driving lights and its better than a toggle switch as you only have to hit one switch to turn the lights off when you have on coming traffic.

Thing is my harness was cobbled together to make the wires longer but while my engine is out I got the wire and relay/fuse box that I have to find a place to mount especially if I plan on mounting a second duct for a HO dual snorkel aircleaner. I want to rewire it all to utilize this box to keep everything nice and neat in one spot.

Nice thing about how I currently have it wired up, even if my highbeam relay fails I still have the driving lights as they are triggered by the same highbeam trigger wire. If my low beam relay fails I still have my highbeams and with a dash mounted toggle I can disconnect the ground side of the relay trigger for my driving lights in the off chance I need to use high beams as low beams. But with my rewire I am seriously thinking about just omitting the switch as its extra wiring that is coming into the truck that I just dont need. The main reason I put the switch was if a inspector tried to give me grief over having the driving lights wired into the highbeam circuit. But way I feel is, its legal so no point in wasting wire when I can just jumper all the relays to a common wire for a single large gauge ground coming out of the box. Only ones I cant do that on is the relays for the sniper as the sniper supplies ground to those to trigger them and cant share a common ground.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nice, I have a headlamp relay harness as well but mine has two relays one for low beam and one for high beam. I have the high beam trigger branched out to the trigger for my driving lights that way my driving lights will only come on with my high beams and when I hit the dimmer switch they turn off.

Its legal to do it that way with driving lights and its better than a toggle switch as you only have to hit one switch to turn the lights off when you have on coming traffic.

Thing is my harness was cobbled together to make the wires longer but while my engine is out I got the wire and relay/fuse box that I have to find a place to mount especially if I plan on mounting a second duct for a HO dual snorkel aircleaner. I want to rewire it all to utilize this box to keep everything nice and neat in one spot.

Nice thing about how I currently have it wired up, even if my highbeam relay fails I still have the driving lights as they are triggered by the same highbeam trigger wire. If my low beam relay fails I still have my highbeams and with a dash mounted toggle I can disconnect the ground side of the relay trigger for my driving lights in the off chance I need to use high beams as low beams. But with my rewire I am seriously thinking about just omitting the switch as its extra wiring that is coming into the truck that I just dont need. The main reason I put the switch was if a inspector tried to give me grief over having the driving lights wired into the highbeam circuit. But way I feel is, its legal so no point in wasting wire when I can just jumper all the relays to a common wire for a single large gauge ground coming out of the box. Only ones I cant do that on is the relays for the sniper as the sniper supplies ground to those to trigger them and cant share a common ground.

Oh, both my high and low beams are relayed.... and grounded.

I was just saying that I used 87a as the first step, so if I put my high beams on my fogs go out.