kramttocs Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option. The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610. Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option. The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610. Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt? Dual batteries may be a thing soon .. for now I need this thing to start working more like a truck than an ambulance. I like where you all are going with the fat 3G alternator and the dual batteries. need to get it started and start yanking the non Ford wiring, Are replacement harnesses available? There are so many configurations ... for f350? this looks doable, but a bit daunting: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/symm.php?Year=1986&Make=Ford&Model=Truck&sb1=+ There is also an kit for the 3G alternators! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Dual batteries may be a thing soon .. for now I need this thing to start working more like a truck than an ambulance. I like where you all are going with the fat 3G alternator and the dual batteries. need to get it started and start yanking the non Ford wiring, Are replacement harnesses available? There are so many configurations ... for f350? this looks doable, but a bit daunting: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/symm.php?Year=1986&Make=Ford&Model=Truck&sb1=+ There is also an kit for the 3G alternators! there is a connector in/behind the glove box. Maybe 8 wires going to it. Putty colored. Shoulda taken a pic. Is that my access point to hack the CANbus? (haha - as if!!). My 1985 Bronco II had an electronic carb... used to love running the test mode and hearing all the stuff clicking... and ... when all things passed it DID run well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option.The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610.Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt?Which Cole Hersee smart isolator would you advise for 2 batteries and one 3G alt Would isolator be mounted under hood, controlled at dashboard?? On Sun, Oct 25, 2020, 11:23 PM kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Dual batteries may be a thing soon .. for now I need this thing to start working more like a truck than an ambulance. I like where you all are going with the fat 3G alternator and the dual batteries. need to get it started and start yanking the non Ford wiring, Are replacement harnesses available? There are so many configurations ... for f350? this looks doable, but a bit daunting: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/symm.php?Year=1986&Make=Ford&Model=Truck&sb1=+ There is also an kit for the 3G alternators! The Cole-Hersee is a "smart" isolator. It will connect the batteries while charging and disconnect when the engine is off. See here This is an alternative to the manual switch you suggested before. I would not suggest the painless kit. Way too expensive for what is $30 worth of components. I have a post somewhere with a list that includes everything and has links for all the cables, plugs and the fuse+holder. If you're interested I also have a link to DB Electrical's webpage where they offer a 130A 3G that comes with the load response control regulator for $70 delivered. Theirs has a 1yr warranty. Alternatively, I probably have a 3G on the shelf that I could put a new LRC into, and go through the bearings. You could have it for the cost of regulator and shipping, but of course it won't come with a warranty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Dual batteries may be a thing soon .. for now I need this thing to start working more like a truck than an ambulance. I like where you all are going with the fat 3G alternator and the dual batteries. need to get it started and start yanking the non Ford wiring, Are replacement harnesses available? There are so many configurations ... for f350? this looks doable, but a bit daunting: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/symm.php?Year=1986&Make=Ford&Model=Truck&sb1=+ There is also an kit for the 3G alternators! Are you saying you have no fuse panel above your left knee? Is there some reason you'd want to rewire your entire truck, rather that just removing the console and associated wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted October 31, 2020 Author Share Posted October 31, 2020 Are you saying you have no fuse panel above your left knee? Is there some reason you'd want to rewire your entire truck, rather that just removing the console and associated wiring? The smart battery device will obviate need to run all Current thru console and back. I am good with that. Have found a Voltmeter more useful than an ammeter, though a Smart battery manager could be aware Of current magnitude and direction. Could Even do the starter motor current switching, There are many models. Any suggestions on sizing For current and 3g alternators, and 2 batteries? Where would You recommend fuses or breakers? 50a to dash and 200a to starter? Thx. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 The smart battery device will obviate need to run all Current thru console and back. I am good with that. Have found a Voltmeter more useful than an ammeter, though a Smart battery manager could be aware Of current magnitude and direction. Could Even do the starter motor current switching, There are many models. Any suggestions on sizing For current and 3g alternators, and 2 batteries? Where would You recommend fuses or breakers? 50a to dash and 200a to starter? Thx. . Are you re-wiring the whole truck? With the current yellow wire going into the cab I would suggest 30A. I wouldn't fuse the starter at all, but I would fuse the alternator. My 3G has a 175A fuse, because I bought the holder with that installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted October 31, 2020 Author Share Posted October 31, 2020 Are you re-wiring the whole truck? With the current yellow wire going into the cab I would suggest 30A. I wouldn't fuse the starter at all, but I would fuse the alternator. My 3G has a 175A fuse, because I bought the holder with that installed. Cole 48122 looks a fit. 140A max alternator feed, so might fuse around there. Good, so i can start pulling out the huge cables To the console. If i use the cole 48122, does energizing the #10 wire cut power? If i skip the ammeter, do i need any Shunts? Seems that fuses replace the fusible links. Good x2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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