1983 F150 5.8L 351W 4x4 Project

[Tom]

If you are going to get rid of the EGR and all of the other emissions components, I think you would be better off with an older non-emissions Autolite 2100, like Jim and Gary said. This is an older, simpler, non-emissions version of the later Motorcraft 2150. The Motorcraft 2150 I referenced earlier is calibrated to run with an EGR and other stock emissions equipment. You *can* still use it, but you will probably have to do some minor re-tuning to compensate for the removed emissions components.

The only issue with going with an older Autolite 2100 is figuring out which calibration to get. You see, the Autolite 2100 was replaced with the Motorcraft 2150 right when emissions controls were beginning to be commonplace, but there wasn't a 5.8/351 Windsor engine in a pickup truck until 1983 - and all of those had emissions equipment. So you are going to have to use your best guess on which vehicle is closest in size to your truck that uses a pre-emissions 351 Windsor. You do NOT want to get one that was designed to run on a 351 Cleveland.

Also, I would definitely go with a custom-curved DSII distributor from Parkland Performance. They can calibrate it to an older non-emissions version of your engine, which would work nicely with an older non-emissions Autolite 2100.

Thanks Lariat 85! Hmmm...I guess I should try to find the best 2100 carb fitment for my 351 W???

Best Regards,

Tom

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Jim,

What do you mean 'Not T'?

Thanks,

Tom

Not the one with the T suffix.

Get the 'Blue Streak' line from Standard Automotive Products.

The -T is made cheap so garages can make more parts profit from gullible customers.

I don't know how much more clear I could have been with my post.

Same thing with Motorcraft.

Even the stuff you buy over the parts counter at the dealership is cheapened down to where it will make it past 30 days (or whatever) and that's it.

Did you see my post where I said "people are cheap, but corporations are cheaper"

Yeah, that....

I understand that my autisim makes me pedantic, but I REALLY try to speak in clear terms and be consise in my diction.

I hope you don't take this the wrong way.

If nothing else, I'm strident.

I just want you to enjoy your truck for a long time without problems manifesting.

To that end I was specific about parts that have worked for me, and people who's vehicles I've personally worked on.

I made a suggestion to get a generic 1,21" 2100 carb with electric choke.

Bill is one of the best when it comes to troubleshooting and tuning.

He's clued into this thread now.

And is generous enough to share what he knows.

But he's also a crumugon like me.

You ask, I tell.

If you don't want the advice or like the answer, ok.

Neither one of us is going to drag you kicking and screaming. 🤣

 

[Tom]

Not the one with the T suffix.

Get the 'Blue Streak' line from Standard Automotive Products.

The -T is made cheap so garages can make more parts profit from gullible customers.

I don't know how much more clear I could have been with my post.

Same thing with Motorcraft.

Even the stuff you buy over the parts counter at the dealership is cheapened down to where it will make it past 30 days (or whatever) and that's it.

Did you see my post where I said "people are cheap, but corporations are cheaper"

Yeah, that....

I understand that my autisim makes me pedantic, but I REALLY try to speak in clear terms and be consise in my diction.

I hope you don't take this the wrong way.

If nothing else, I'm strident.

I just want you to enjoy your truck for a long time without problems manifesting.

To that end I was specific about parts that have worked for me, and people who's vehicles I've personally worked on.

I made a suggestion to get a generic 1,21" 2100 carb with electric choke.

Bill is one of the best when it comes to troubleshooting and tuning.

He's clued into this thread now.

And is generous enough to share what he knows.

But he's also a crumugon like me.

You ask, I tell.

If you don't want the advice or like the answer, ok.

Neither one of us is going to drag you kicking and screaming. 🤣

OK! Gotcha...no worries! I am learning a lot, which is why I bought this truck in the first place. I super appreciate everyone's advice and feedback. I just need to determine which pathway to take as, at times, folks share a different perspective.

On a very appreciative note, I really am happy that The Bullnose Forum is up and running. Otherwise, I would be totally lost!

At least now I am beginning to develop a proper understanding of how things work. I am super happy that I began to take some steps today in taking some things apart. The inside of that air pump was rusted out and scaling. Who knows how many years it has been sitting in that engine compartment doing nothing!

If you guys don't mind answering questions, I'll likely keep asking. I still have a really steep learning curve. But...I'm up to it!

Regarding the 'T', I'm inferring that you mean the 'T' at the end of the model number for the coil - FD476T. If that is what you mean, I now understand. Sorry I missed that. I'll look for a Standard Automotive Products coil in the Blue Streak Line.

Regarding the carb, I'll begin searching for a generic 1.21" 2100 with an electric choke.

Thanks again Jim!

Best Regards,

Tom

[LARIAT 85]

I made a suggestion to get a generic 1,21" 2100 carb with electric choke.

Did Ford use an electric choke on their Autolite 2100 carburetors?

I don't think they did. I am pretty sure they used either a manual or an automatic thermostatic choke.

And as far as I know, there wasn't a "generic" Autolite 2100, either.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

OK! Gotcha...no worries! I am learning a lot, which is why I bought this truck in the first place. I super appreciate everyone's advice and feedback. I just need to determine which pathway to take as, at times, folks share a different perspective.

On a very appreciative note, I really am happy that The Bullnose Forum is up and running. Otherwise, I would be totally lost!

At least now I am beginning to develop a proper understanding of how things work. I am super happy that I began to take some steps today in taking some things apart. The inside of that air pump was rusted out and scaling. Who knows how many years it has been sitting in that engine compartment doing nothing!

If you guys don't mind answering questions, I'll likely keep asking. I still have a really steep learning curve. But...I'm up to it!

Regarding the 'T', I'm inferring that you mean the 'T' at the end of the model number for the coil - FD476T. If that is what you mean, I now understand. Sorry I missed that. I'll look for a Standard Automotive Products coil in the Blue Streak Line.

Regarding the carb, I'll begin searching for a generic 1.21" 2100 with an electric choke.

Thanks again Jim!

Best Regards,

Tom

Please, ask away.

I'm one person.

With my own biases

I don't mean to dismiss anyone else.

But I do know BS when I see it.

And I'm the first that's going to call it out.

It's great that you're digging into your truck and understanding what things do, and how they effect each other.

I'm not trying to dissuade you from a 40 year old rebuilt carburetor or a custom tuned distributor.

I just know -in my own head- that given what you've said (and I quoted above) that you would be fine with generic components that don't fail in regular use.

If you want a trash hauler and a truck that will bring home 20 bags of mulch or 100 2x4's you don't need a performance, or a period correct 'concours' anything.

You need reliable parts that "Get 'er done"

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary! Here is the Calibration Code: 1-63T-R13 338

Calibration code 1-63T-R13 matches to Calibration Parts List No. 338, as shown below. And that setup uses either carb E2TZ 9510-CDB or E2TZ 9510-CDD, both of which are VV's.

But, as you can see, that is for a 1983 F150 with a 351W with a manual transmission and not the high altitude option. (It was also used on an 83 F250 under 8500 GVW and manual tranny and not high altitude, as well as a Bronco with manual and non-high altitude - all with a 351W.)

Unfortunately, all three of the calibration codes listed use the VV carb. So I struck out for you. I'd suggest you buy a 2100.

As for the choke, you can swap a choke housing from any 2100 or 2150 onto any other. In fact, I think you can put a Holley choke housing on. So finding an electric choke should not be a problem.

[85lebaront2]

Calibration code 1-63T-R13 matches to Calibration Parts List No. 338, as shown below. And that setup uses either carb E2TZ 9510-CDB or E2TZ 9510-CDD, both of which are VV's.

But, as you can see, that is for a 1983 F150 with a 351W with a manual transmission and not the high altitude option. (It was also used on an 83 F250 under 8500 GVW and manual tranny and not high altitude, as well as a Bronco with manual and non-high altitude - all with a 351W.)

Unfortunately, all three of the calibration codes listed use the VV carb. So I struck out for you. I'd suggest you buy a 2100.

As for the choke, you can swap a choke housing from any 2100 or 2150 onto any other. In fact, I think you can put a Holley choke housing on. So finding an electric choke should not be a problem.

Gary, move up to a 1984 or 1985 351W 2V and see what numbers come up. 1984 AllData gives me E4TZ-9510-AC and 1985 E5TZ-9510-AA. FWIW, in 1983 AllData shows a Motorcraft 7200 VV feedback carb or a Motorcraft 2150 non-feedback carb. I was using an F250 for reference.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, move up to a 1984 or 1985 351W 2V and see what numbers come up. 1984 AllData gives me E4TZ-9510-AC and 1985 E5TZ-9510-AA. FWIW, in 1983 AllData shows a Motorcraft 7200 VV feedback carb or a Motorcraft 2150 non-feedback carb. I was using an F250 for reference.

Bill, those will work but they are for a C6. I don't know what difference that makes, but E5TZ 9510-P (marked E5TE-PA) is for the same '85 truck but with a manual tranny.

[Tom]

Calibration code 1-63T-R13 matches to Calibration Parts List No. 338, as shown below. And that setup uses either carb E2TZ 9510-CDB or E2TZ 9510-CDD, both of which are VV's.

But, as you can see, that is for a 1983 F150 with a 351W with a manual transmission and not the high altitude option. (It was also used on an 83 F250 under 8500 GVW and manual tranny and not high altitude, as well as a Bronco with manual and non-high altitude - all with a 351W.)

Unfortunately, all three of the calibration codes listed use the VV carb. So I struck out for you. I'd suggest you buy a 2100.

As for the choke, you can swap a choke housing from any 2100 or 2150 onto any other. In fact, I think you can put a Holley choke housing on. So finding an electric choke should not be a problem.

No worries Gary!

Thank you guys! I appreciate all of the digging and vetting. Given all of the good advice and perspective, I'm going to continue to take things apart and document. I know at some juncture, I'll need to make a decision regarding which path to take regarding the carb & ignition system (I am still searching for a 2100 with a 1.21" venturi opening). In the meantime, I am learning a lot!

Yesterday, took my truck out for a ten mile test run, this is without the air pump and its associated vacuum hoses and soleniod valves. It seemed to run fine.

Going to tackle the EGR today. I'll post some photos showing my progress. Again, can't thank you all enough!

Best Regards,

Tom

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

As for the choke, you can swap a choke housing from any 2100 or 2150 onto any other. In fact, I think you can put a Holley choke housing on. So finding an electric choke should not be a problem.

If you use a Motorcraft housing you only need the one connector.

While you can swap in a Holley choke heater, you won't have the proper wiring to make it a drop-in application.

Like I've tried to impress multiple times before: Throw the calibration codes out the window. The pump is gone, the cat is going, the coil is going, the distributor and it's curve is going (one way or the other) and the carb is going too.

Fonzie can lecture about "Ford correctness" but the fact is that we are having a discussion about violating federal law and once any part of that calibration is borked (down to the required spark plugs) you may as well throw that book out the window and write your own based on past experience and best practices.