Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 You've ripped off the AiR injection pump that makes it effective....?!?!? Let me make a Vermont analogy. You burn your stove cool and damped down all the time. It makes for a sooty burn and starts to clog the stove pipe. Then the stove can't draw, even if you want it too. And it is just a chimney fire waiting to happen. It is definitely a source of exhaust restriction, and without ever getting up to functional temperatures it is going to soot up pretty soon. This is I would remove it if you've defeated the thermactor system. OK...looks like I'll remove the cat converter as well. Right now I'm going to try to focus on getting the right carb for this truck. Getting parts is a lot more challenging than I expected. So, I'll be looking for either a 2100 or 2150 that will work with my 351W without emissions. I think I got that right? And...works with a duraspark II distributor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 OK...looks like I'll remove the cat converter as well. Right now I'm going to try to focus on getting the right carb for this truck. Getting parts is a lot more challenging than I expected. So, I'll be looking for either a 2100 or 2150 that will work with my 351W without emissions. I think I got that right? And...works with a duraspark II distributor! A non-emissions carb will work fine with DSII. Like I said, you want to be sure of the venturi size. And that it has electric choke... with a Ford ball stud and without a kick down. They came in all sort of cfm. I *think* you probably want one with 1.14" venturi's, but I would ask our resident carburetor expert, Bill. Edit: autocorrect chumped the bore size..... 1.14" @ 3" hg =300 cfm 1.21" @3" hg = 351 cfm Both of these differ from 4V numbers because four barrels are measured at 1.5" hg. So we divide by the square (1.4142) and arrive at 213 & 250 c.f.m. respectively. Looking at this now I tend to think the raw numbers should match displacement in C.I., but Bill would know the best course. The 2100 lacks metering rods in the boosters, but that doesn't make it inferior to the 2150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Thank you Jacob! I'll reference this information as I get to that point in the replacement. Right now I'm just trying to sort of develop a basic understanding of how all of these parts work together. BTW, what does 'HO' stand for when you describe your truck with a 351W HO. Thanks! Tom Not a problem Tom. As far as the HO Jim hit a lot of it. So the 351w HO that my truck came with was in f-series trucks from 84-87 as an option. The only real engine differences between the HO and "standard" 351s were 1) camshaft- based off a marine cam. Pretty good lift and duration for a stock cam. I don't remember the exact specs. 2) 4V carb and intake. Essentially the pre smog 4V intake but with an EGR provision. Those HO motors have about 60hp over the standard. I really liked it. I wouldn't hesitate to build one a 351w modeled after it other than some better heads. The motor I have in my truck now is completely different. I have a roller cam 351w with a cam out of a 5.0 HO, Weiand intake, aftermarket efi, etc. The only thing left from the 351W HO is the air cleaner. Now it's my personal rendition of an "HO":nabble_smiley_evil: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Not a problem Tom. As far as the HO Jim hit a lot of it. So the 351w HO that my truck came with was in f-series trucks from 84-87 as an option. The only real engine differences between the HO and "standard" 351s were 1) camshaft- based off a marine cam. Pretty good lift and duration for a stock cam. I don't remember the exact specs. 2) 4V carb and intake. Essentially the pre smog 4V intake but with an EGR provision. Those HO motors have about 60hp over the standard. I really liked it. I wouldn't hesitate to build one a 351w modeled after it other than some better heads. The motor I have in my truck now is completely different. I have a roller cam 351w with a cam out of a 5.0 HO, Weiand intake, aftermarket efi, etc. The only thing left from the 351W HO is the air cleaner. Now it's my personal rendition of an "HO":nabble_smiley_evil: Jacob, can I ask what heads you're running? What do you think of this engine compared to the HO? And how much do you have into it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. Jacob, the MSD box that you speak of, is it plug and play so to speak? The module that I currently have is not the OEM unit. A couple years after buying my truck, that unit went out and I replaced it with a box store unit which, surprisingly has been very good to me. However, I do worry that it will crap out on me and strand me one day. John- if you're talking about the Ford Racing duraspark/MSD box, yes as far as I know it's plug and play. But the chances of finding one is slim. I've never seen one in the wild..so to speak. They're not produced anymore. Now the modern MSD box you'll find is not plug and play but it is far from difficult to wire. You'll have positive and negative wires that go directly to battery (this is imperative, must go to the battery terminals and not another power source), a 12v keyed source to tell the box to come on (can use the keyed 12v source that goes to the duraspark box), the positive and negative wires to the coil, and the magnetic pickup wires that go to the distributor (MSD has an adapter that allows you to use the factory connectors with the DSII distributor. Honestly, the hardest part is mounting the box which isn't hard at all. If someone wants to go this route I'd be happy to help. Jim- I noticed a difference in the idle quality and I could tell I had a little more grunt but nothing to write home about. To me it was worth it but I would have no issue running the DSII system especially now I know what my issue was. Just depends on the persons thought process, goals, and needs. Looking back I didn't need it but I don't regret it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Jacob, can I ask what heads you're running? What do you think of this engine compared to the HO? And how much do you have into it? Jim- Sure, so I'm just running the stock E7 heads that came with my 95 block. I didn't have the funds to drop $2k on heads as I have just graduated college and built this during my senior year. The heads were a big reason I got the 5.0 HO cam. The 5.0 HO motors came with E7 heads so I knew the cam would work well and I could reference to all the Foxbody guys as to what works well with that cam/head combo Compared to the original HO, it's got a good amount of extra power. I guess I'm used to it now so I don't notice it as much but my friends are amazed at the difference. The original HO had a little more torque down low whereas this new motor it doesn't really "get on the cam" till 2,500 rpm. But when it does it definitely surprises you. I can also turn a little more rpm so the top end is better as well. It's also worth noting the original HO was wore out and I did some significant induction upgrades to the new motor. As far as what I have into it I kinda got lucky. The motor was free. I rebuilt it so no labor costs and it only needed rings and bearings out of caution. I also don't hold back on parts, I get the best I can afford. With the rings, bearings, gaskets, cam, lifters, intake, oil pump, etc, I'd say it was something around $1k but I'd have to look at all my receipts. One could build it cheaper by using the original roller cam and a stock intake but I thought they were worthy upgrades. I spread it out over time so it wasn't hard to do and I now have an entire parts truck, minus a motor, to part out and recoup most of the cost. That figure also doesn't include the efi system and tank/fuel pump, that was extra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Not a problem Tom. As far as the HO Jim hit a lot of it. So the 351w HO that my truck came with was in f-series trucks from 84-87 as an option. The only real engine differences between the HO and "standard" 351s were 1) camshaft- based off a marine cam. Pretty good lift and duration for a stock cam. I don't remember the exact specs. 2) 4V carb and intake. Essentially the pre smog 4V intake but with an EGR provision. Those HO motors have about 60hp over the standard. I really liked it. I wouldn't hesitate to build one a 351w modeled after it other than some better heads. The motor I have in my truck now is completely different. I have a roller cam 351w with a cam out of a 5.0 HO, Weiand intake, aftermarket efi, etc. The only thing left from the 351W HO is the air cleaner. Now it's my personal rendition of an "HO":nabble_smiley_evil: Got it! Thanks Jacob! The amount of knowledge that you guys have amassed is amazing. I think I just need to jump into this project and start learning. And probably making a lot of mistakes along the way. Also, as I read these threads, I think I'm beginning to see how my expectations of this truck will evolve. Right now I just want it to start and run in a reliable and consistent manner. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 A non-emissions carb will work fine with DSII. Like I said, you want to be sure of the venturi size. And that it has electric choke... with a Ford ball stud and without a kick down. They came in all sort of cfm. I *think* you probably want one with 1.14" venturi's, but I would ask our resident carburetor expert, Bill. Edit: autocorrect chumped the bore size..... 1.14" @ 3" hg =300 cfm 1.21" @3" hg = 351 cfm Both of these differ from 4V numbers because four barrels are measured at 1.5" hg. So we divide by the square (1.4142) and arrive at 213 & 250 c.f.m. respectively. Looking at this now I tend to think the raw numbers should match displacement in C.I., but Bill would know the best course. The 2100 lacks metering rods in the boosters, but that doesn't make it inferior to the 2150. OK...thanks Jim! I really want to try and nail down this carb today. What is the best way of connecting with Bill regarding the venturi size on the carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 What is the best way of connecting with Bill regarding the venturi size on the carb? Click on his handle anywhere he's posted and then click on Send Email To. But, he posted his email address a day or so ago as "wavose at g mail dot com". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 What is the best way of connecting with Bill regarding the venturi size on the carb? Click on his handle anywhere he's posted and then click on Send Email To. But, he posted his email address a day or so ago as "wavose at g mail dot com". Awesome! Thanks Gary! I'll send him a note. Hope all is well! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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