ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Quick note on the DSII systems. That's what my truck came with originally (351w HO). It sat for about ten years before I got it and the ignition module needed to be replaced. Replaced it with a parts store module, bad decision. I think I put 4 new modules in it before I bought a MSD 6AL box. The modules would last about a year then leave me stranded. Last time the module only lasted a week or two before it gave up. Thankfully I had my MSD box mounted and ready to go but hadn't terminated the wires yet so I got to finish my wiring at about 2am on the side of the road. Just food for thought. Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. If all emissions equipment is removed the distributor will need to be recurved as well. I'd recommend a Duraspark II distributor from Scott at Parkland Performance (custom curved), MSD box, MSD Blaster coil, and good plug wires. That's what I did because mine is my daily driver, I wanted the best. They're easy to wire and the trucks idles and runs a lot better. Just my experience though. If you can find a good Duraspark module you won't be disappointed, it's a really good system. Looking forward to what you do and hopefully what I said can be useful. I've been using the NAPA (Echlin) TP40 modules and have NO problems with them. My "known good" spare under the seat got swapped out after the better part of a decade. The start retard functions properly and they have no problem to 6k. I think Gary has them in Big Blue now too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I've been using the NAPA (Echlin) TP40 modules and have NO problems with them. My "known good" spare under the seat got swapped out after the better part of a decade. The start retard functions properly and they have no problem to 6k. I think Gary has them in Big Blue now too. Jacob - What coil were you running? A high-intensity coil will kill a DS-II module. But I agree that having Scotty curve a new dizzy is the way to go. Jim - You mean this? As you know, the idea of having a spare module under the seat is all well and good, but why not have it "to hand"? Also, your point about the retard function is spot-on. Not all modules have it, but Big Blue's old 460 didn't like to start w/o it. With it, piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I've been using the NAPA (Echlin) TP40 modules and have NO problems with them. My "known good" spare under the seat got swapped out after the better part of a decade. The start retard functions properly and they have no problem to 6k. I think Gary has them in Big Blue now too. Jim- I'm glad to hear y'all have good experiences with them. I got mine from O'Reilly's but I don't know who manufactures them. I'll see if I can find out. But in all honesty I may have been doing something wrong that led to them going out prematurely as I read what Gary said:nabble_anim_confused: Gary- You might be on to something there. The first replacement coil I think was stock. After that I used Accel Super Stocks. Once I was fed up with those going out I stepped up to the MSD Blaster. And now that I think about it I had most trouble with the ignition boxes when I upgraded to the MSD coil. That's good to know, I had no idea. I'll remember that next time I mess with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Quick note on the DSII systems. That's what my truck came with originally (351w HO). It sat for about ten years before I got it and the ignition module needed to be replaced. Replaced it with a parts store module, bad decision. I think I put 4 new modules in it before I bought a MSD 6AL box. The modules would last about a year then leave me stranded. Last time the module only lasted a week or two before it gave up. Thankfully I had my MSD box mounted and ready to go but hadn't terminated the wires yet so I got to finish my wiring at about 2am on the side of the road. Just food for thought. Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. If all emissions equipment is removed the distributor will need to be recurved as well. I'd recommend a Duraspark II distributor from Scott at Parkland Performance (custom curved), MSD box, MSD Blaster coil, and good plug wires. That's what I did because mine is my daily driver, I wanted the best. They're easy to wire and the trucks idles and runs a lot better. Just my experience though. If you can find a good Duraspark module you won't be disappointed, it's a really good system. Looking forward to what you do and hopefully what I said can be useful. Thank you Jacob! I'll reference this information as I get to that point in the replacement. Right now I'm just trying to sort of develop a basic understanding of how all of these parts work together. BTW, what does 'HO' stand for when you describe your truck with a 351W HO. Thanks! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Hi Tom, I'm WAY down in the southwest corner -Readsboro- right now. Piecing together my transfer case. The 2150 is probably the most direct replacement (non-emissions) carb for you. They're highly regarded, and if you want tuning info turn to Bill *Vose (85LebaronT2) here on the forum. He ran a carb and tune-up shop for years when these were popular. I think the advantage to DuraSpark is that most parts stores will have a spark box, coil or distributor available off the shelf. While the HEI is easier to adjust the ignition curve and consolidates your entire ignition in one inexpensive unit. I'll look around for a 2150 for you. I only have 4V's on the shelf. Awesome! Thanks Jim. I'll start by labeling and taking everything apart. Looks like Duraspark is the way to go. I'll check out Jacob's recommendations at Parkland and also see what I can find at parts stores. Here I go! If you do get to Northern Vermont, let me know. I'd love for you to take a look at the truck! Best, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Thank you Jacob! I'll reference this information as I get to that point in the replacement. Right now I'm just trying to sort of develop a basic understanding of how all of these parts work together. BTW, what does 'HO' stand for when you describe your truck with a 351W HO. Thanks! Tom HO is high output. It is a heavy (8500+) gross weight truck with a 4-barrel carb, no catalytic converters and no computer controlled ignition timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Jim- I'm glad to hear y'all have good experiences with them. I got mine from O'Reilly's but I don't know who manufactures them. I'll see if I can find out. But in all honesty I may have been doing something wrong that led to them going out prematurely as I read what Gary said:nabble_anim_confused: Gary- You might be on to something there. The first replacement coil I think was stock. After that I used Accel Super Stocks. Once I was fed up with those going out I stepped up to the MSD Blaster. And now that I think about it I had most trouble with the ignition boxes when I upgraded to the MSD coil. That's good to know, I had no idea. I'll remember that next time I mess with one. Low impedance coils put a lot of load on the transistor in the DuraSpark box, and tend to cause it to overheat. The potting melts out and the transistor loses contact with the heatsink of the case. It's not long from there to failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Hi Tom, I'm WAY down in the southwest corner -Readsboro- right now. Piecing together my transfer case. The 2150 is probably the most direct replacement (non-emissions) carb for you. They're highly regarded, and if you want tuning info turn to Bill *Vose (85LebaronT2) here on the forum. He ran a carb and tune-up shop for years when these were popular. I think the advantage to DuraSpark is that most parts stores will have a spark box, coil or distributor available off the shelf. While the HEI is easier to adjust the ignition curve and consolidates your entire ignition in one inexpensive unit. I'll look around for a 2150 for you. I only have 4V's on the shelf. I'm putting together a parts list and this is what I have so far: Motorcraft 2150 carburetor Duraspark II Distributor Duraspark II Ignition Coil Duraspark II Ignition Module Duraspark II Wiring Harness I'm guessing that if I can't find OEM parts, I'll be able to use aftermarket parts. Here are the first steps I'll take: Remove old VV carb and label all vacuum hoses Remove air pump (it looks as if it has seized); and plug any hoses Remove EEC unit under the driver's seat I reckon I'll keep the EGR, although maybe this is something that should be replaced since it is 37 years old! Let me know what you think, and thanks for the help so far. I've been spending a lot of time looking on line for parts, without much luck. I'll head to an auto parts store tomorrow. Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I'm putting together a parts list and this is what I have so far: Motorcraft 2150 carburetor Duraspark II Distributor Duraspark II Ignition Coil Duraspark II Ignition Module Duraspark II Wiring Harness I'm guessing that if I can't find OEM parts, I'll be able to use aftermarket parts. Here are the first steps I'll take: Remove old VV carb and label all vacuum hoses Remove air pump (it looks as if it has seized); and plug any hoses Remove EEC unit under the driver's seat I reckon I'll keep the EGR, although maybe this is something that should be replaced since it is 37 years old! Let me know what you think, and thanks for the help so far. I've been spending a lot of time looking on line for parts, without much luck. I'll head to an auto parts store tomorrow. Thank you!!! I've been poking around and it seems there are a LOT of 2100 reproductions available quite inexpensive. Many people will say "I don't want that Chinese garbage on my truck" but the reality is that any number of members have bought Carter YF clones for their 300's and we don't get reports that they don't work. Another thing you should probably address is the thermactor pipe that bridges the two cylinder heads at the back. Without the air pump blowing through it, exhaust gases will rot it out and you will have a loud tick against the firewall. The ports it connects to can be plugged with a short 5/8-11 bolt and a copper or aluminum crush washer. I'm using a Standard brand replacement coil. I'll get the number for you... The recommendation for one of Scotties recurved DSII distributors is a good one. You know it will be set up correctly and tested, unlike some random reman from the parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Quick note on the DSII systems. That's what my truck came with originally (351w HO). It sat for about ten years before I got it and the ignition module needed to be replaced. Replaced it with a parts store module, bad decision. I think I put 4 new modules in it before I bought a MSD 6AL box. The modules would last about a year then leave me stranded. Last time the module only lasted a week or two before it gave up. Thankfully I had my MSD box mounted and ready to go but hadn't terminated the wires yet so I got to finish my wiring at about 2am on the side of the road. Just food for thought. Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. If all emissions equipment is removed the distributor will need to be recurved as well. I'd recommend a Duraspark II distributor from Scott at Parkland Performance (custom curved), MSD box, MSD Blaster coil, and good plug wires. That's what I did because mine is my daily driver, I wanted the best. They're easy to wire and the trucks idles and runs a lot better. Just my experience though. If you can find a good Duraspark module you won't be disappointed, it's a really good system. Looking forward to what you do and hopefully what I said can be useful. Hi Jacob, I just took some time to review the msd website. I think I have a better understanding now of the difference between a msd ignition system and a factory ignition system. I see that msd makes most of the components that I would need - distributor, coil, ignition module. Thanks for the heads up! Learning a lot about all of the options! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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