Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 I've been poking around and it seems there are a LOT of 2100 reproductions available quite inexpensive. Many people will say "I don't want that Chinese garbage on my truck" but the reality is that any number of members have bought Carter YF clones for their 300's and we don't get reports that they don't work. Another thing you should probably address is the thermactor pipe that bridges the two cylinder heads at the back. Without the air pump blowing through it, exhaust gases will rot it out and you will have a loud tick against the firewall. The ports it connects to can be plugged with a short 5/8-11 bolt and a copper or aluminum crush washer. I'm using a Standard brand replacement coil. I'll get the number for you... The recommendation for one of Scotties recurved DSII distributors is a good one. You know it will be set up correctly and tested, unlike some random reman from the parts store. Got it...thanks Jim! Looks like I can get a duraspark II distributor from Parkland Performance for $200. I'll take a look at the thermactor pipe. That would be great to get the coil number. And...a question. You mention that there are a lot of 2100 reproductions. Can I use a 2100 instead of a 2150 carb for my truck? Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Got it...thanks Jim! Looks like I can get a duraspark II distributor from Parkland Performance for $200. I'll take a look at the thermactor pipe. That would be great to get the coil number. And...a question. You mention that there are a lot of 2100 reproductions. Can I use a 2100 instead of a 2150 carb for my truck? Thanks!!! 2100 is just the earlier (non-emission) version of that carb. Then Holley makes the big bucks 2300 version for those race classes that require a two barrel, stock style carb. I guess that -being in VT- you'd want electric choke, but I think we need ask Bill what the optimal venturi size would be for your 351. The basic 2100 can be had in flow rates from 250- 500 CFM. Edit to add: most of these clones are right at $100. You want one with the Ford throttle ball stud, but don't need any kickdown, being a manual gearbox. Do you have speed control? That's a linkage consideration too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 2100 is just the earlier (non-emission) version of that carb. Then Holley makes the big bucks 2300 version for those race classes that require a two barrel, stock style carb. I guess that -being in VT- you'd want electric choke, but I think we need ask Bill what the optimal venturi size would be for your 351. The basic 2100 can be had in flow rates from 250- 500 CFM. Edit to add: most of these clones are right at $100. You want one with the Ford throttle ball stud, but don't need any kickdown, being a manual gearbox. Do you have speed control? That's a linkage consideration too. There is no cruise control (speed control) on the truck. It is a pretty basic truck with very few bells or whistles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 There is no cruise control (speed control) on the truck. It is a pretty basic truck with very few bells or whistles! I like simple! It's so relatable for me. Do you intend to keep a Cat Converter on it? Because a less restrictive exhaust might want a bit bigger carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. Jacob, the MSD box that you speak of, is it plug and play so to speak? The module that I currently have is not the OEM unit. A couple years after buying my truck, that unit went out and I replaced it with a box store unit which, surprisingly has been very good to me. However, I do worry that it will crap out on me and strand me one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Now a factory Duraspark module is known to be very good. Unfortunately finding one is hard in my experience. The MSD is very good and reliable imo. And it is very very similar to the Duraspark. The only differences I know are the multiple sparks below 3,000rpm for each firing event with the MSD and the magnetic pickup signal wires are swapped. Ford Racing actually had a Duraspark box with MSD internals at one point if that tells you something. Jacob, the MSD box that you speak of, is it plug and play so to speak? The module that I currently have is not the OEM unit. A couple years after buying my truck, that unit went out and I replaced it with a box store unit which, surprisingly has been very good to me. However, I do worry that it will crap out on me and strand me one day. John - The factory box is pretty solid if you use a factory coil. But some of us carry a spare nonetheless. However, there are at least two versions of the factory box - with and without start retard. And the adverts don't tell you whether they do or don't. So you kinda want to stick with those brands that are known to have the retard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 I like simple! It's so relatable for me. Do you intend to keep a Cat Converter on it? Because a less restrictive exhaust might want a bit bigger carb. I was planning on keeping the catalytic converter...unless there are reasons to remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I was planning on keeping the catalytic converter...unless there are reasons to remove it? You've ripped off the AiR injection pump that makes it effective....?!?!? Let me make a Vermont analogy. You burn your stove cool and damped down all the time. It makes for a sooty burn and starts to clog the stove pipe. Then the stove can't draw, even if you want it too. And it is just a chimney fire waiting to happen. It is definitely a source of exhaust restriction, and without ever getting up to functional temperatures it is going to soot up pretty soon. This is I would remove it if you've defeated the thermactor system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 John - The factory box is pretty solid if you use a factory coil. But some of us carry a spare nonetheless. However, there are at least two versions of the factory box - with and without start retard. And the adverts don't tell you whether they do or don't. So you kinda want to stick with those brands that are known to have the retard. Why would anyone produce an ignition module that does not have the start retard? Based off your post, Gary, assuming the NAPA unit you mention has the start retard? Still curious about the MSD unit being plug and play? I know I'd need to replace the coil if I went that route. My control module and coil are both very old. Just wondering if this would be a worth while upgrade??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Why would anyone produce an ignition module that does not have the start retard? Based off your post, Gary, assuming the NAPA unit you mention has the start retard? Still curious about the MSD unit being plug and play? I know I'd need to replace the coil if I went that route. My control module and coil are both very old. Just wondering if this would be a worth while upgrade??? Because that's the difference between a $5 unit that sells for $17 and a $25 unit that sells for $42?? People are cheap, and corporations are even cheaper. Imho MSD have their place at the track but offer no advantage on the street. Drag cars have terrible vacuum, crappy idle and huge amounts of fuel. It might take multiple sparks to keep that ignited with incredibly poor filling and -literally- rain pouring into the cylinder. Plus, you can use a really 'hot' coil, and get away with it because with multiple spark events it is not spending too much time saturated, ready to melt down. With DSII, you have a hot spark while cranking (resistor bypass) PLUS 4 or so degrees *retard (a millisecond) and the rest of the time you have normal operation. I don't get any scatter at 6k like I would with points, and I don't see a reason to push it beyond that. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone, but I'd like to know any rational, intelligent reason to run an MSD on the street (beyond "It looks cool!") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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