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Exhaust options for 351W


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I thought it was Eunice that needed a new tank?

I'd start gathering parts for Espy's new heart.

GT40 heads, maybe a stroker crank?

I have heard lots of great things about AFR`s Renegade 165cc heads. I havent used mine yet but thats the route I went. I was looking at GT40 heads but then I started thinking about flow and the aluminum nature of the AFR`s and went with the Renegade 165`s for my build. Everyone Ive talked to said those are amazing heads for a small ford engine for street use.

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I have heard lots of great things about AFR`s Renegade 165cc heads. I havent used mine yet but thats the route I went. I was looking at GT40 heads but then I started thinking about flow and the aluminum nature of the AFR`s and went with the Renegade 165`s for my build. Everyone Ive talked to said those are amazing heads for a small ford engine for street use.

Aluminum is ALWAYS nice if you can afford it.

Conducts heat so much better that you can get another point of compression all other things the same, and it's very easy to port.

Air Flow Research make a really nice product! :nabble_smiley_good:

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Aluminum is ALWAYS nice if you can afford it.

Conducts heat so much better that you can get another point of compression all other things the same, and it's very easy to port.

Air Flow Research make a really nice product! :nabble_smiley_good:

Those are not cheap!!

Now i am questioning how much money i need to budget for an engine.. I was thinking $2.5k might be enough for a rebuild.

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Aluminum is ALWAYS nice if you can afford it.

Conducts heat so much better that you can get another point of compression all other things the same, and it's very easy to port.

Air Flow Research make a really nice product! :nabble_smiley_good:

Yep my AFR Renegade 165cc heads were $1,800 for a pair assembled I got $200 off from jegs during their sale but it was right back at $1,800 as I had them custom ordered with springs AFR recommended as a very close match to the recommended springs by Crane Cams for the roller cam I got as well as the 7/16 rocker arm stud upgrade.

Im hopeful the aluminum 58cc AFR heads will allow me to run at least 89 octane mid grade fuel with 9.5:1 compression. highest my compression I figure could be is 9.75:1 and lowest would be 9.0:1. I wont know till i get my short block and do the math to figure what my compression would be. I just know blueprint has 9.5:1 compression with a 60cc chamber head which will put me at 9.75:1 from my figuring.

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Those are not cheap!!

Now i am questioning how much money i need to budget for an engine.. I was thinking $2.5k might be enough for a rebuild.

My 306 build with fuel injection for everything is going to be right at $10,000 when I am done.

This includes AFR Renegade heads, edelbrock performer intake, hedman shorty street headers, one magnaflow XL 3 chamber round muffler, tail pipe, Y pipe, one piece oil pan and valve cover gaskets, new timing set, new timing cover, new water pump, new balancer, new roller ford racing HD lifters, new scropion roller rockers, new ford racing valve covers, holley sniper stealth, new fuel tank, new fuel sending unit, new in tank fuel pump.

I am doing quite a bit for $10,000. You can buy a prebuilt crate engine for around $8,000 but I find those are very generic hotrod engines and dont always fit nicely with a truck or a street setup. That is why I opted to piece my own together using a short block. That way I was able to select a truck performance cam from Crane and then build around that 1,400 - 5,400 rpm power band.

I also have another $2,800 set aside for a custom built C6 transmission with a E4OD planetary gearset to get a 15% lower first and 10% lower second gear. I also have on my wish list a Currie 9inch center chunk with a detroit trutrak with 3.25:1 axle ratio for $2,800 as well.

It can run into money especially if you go all out like I am as I want it to be all new and done right. Ive already had a engine built and it used oil from day one that the builders could never solve.

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Those are not cheap!!

Now i am questioning how much money i need to budget for an engine.. I was thinking $2.5k might be enough for a rebuild.

Which is why I said GT40's and maybe a new crank.

Make decisions on what you need, what you want and what it's going to take to get there.

Then start picking those pieces to get you there and work together.

400/400 is way more than you need for a truck to drive to lake.

But (like I,said) this is a discussion you should have before you start.

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Which is why I said GT40's and maybe a new crank.

Make decisions on what you need, what you want and what it's going to take to get there.

Then start picking those pieces to get you there and work together.

400/400 is way more than you need for a truck to drive to lake.

But (like I,said) this is a discussion you should have before you start.

Yep it is best to make a plan on what you want and then go from there.

Daily driver with long term reliability or all out performance.

I choosed a blend of daily driver with long term reliability as well as a slight lean towards performance. Its why I would not use a flat tappet cam, why would I use a flat tappet cam when I can free up power, use a more agressive ramp profile by going with a roller cam. Plus it prevents me having to run VR1 to make sure I have enough zinc for the flat tappet cam.

Just like with a street truck, have to decide like you said how much power you want. My goal has always been 300 hp as that over double what a smog 302 was rated at for my truck. That would basically make my truck run like I have two engines under the hood. Some times you dont have to shoot for 500 hp like everyone wants to always go for.

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Yep it is best to make a plan on what you want and then go from there.

Daily driver with long term reliability or all out performance.

I choosed a blend of daily driver with long term reliability as well as a slight lean towards performance. Its why I would not use a flat tappet cam, why would I use a flat tappet cam when I can free up power, use a more agressive ramp profile by going with a roller cam. Plus it prevents me having to run VR1 to make sure I have enough zinc for the flat tappet cam.

Just like with a street truck, have to decide like you said how much power you want. My goal has always been 300 hp as that over double what a smog 302 was rated at for my truck. That would basically make my truck run like I have two engines under the hood. Some times you dont have to shoot for 500 hp like everyone wants to always go for.

“Daily driver with long term reliability”

My wife needs be confident she can drive 100miles round trip to a lake and be comfy and stylish.

Therefore 400/400 is way over. Honestly cruising with a nice sounding 250/250 with the 4OD tranny... she will be made up!

Sounds like I need to find an engine builder ...

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