Rembrant Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Thanks everyone! "The EGR spacer has been crudely plated off. If you choose not to run one you can find a non-emissions inlet spacer to eliminate the blue painted thing" So I can find one of these plates and remove and remount the carb I guess or get the EGR Valve? More pics added of my "setup" Does anyone have a suggestion for an air cleaner ? Or is that little one good enough? Josh You have the later (1987-up) EFI dual exhaust manifolds on there FYI. They are not original to the truck. Definitely a former Feedback carb application with all the wiring coming through the firewall. Finish that DS-II swap and you can remove a whole bunch of that other stuff and really clean up that engine bay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 I agree - you want the complete factory air cleaner system. Go read the page at Documention/Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners for an explanation of what we are talking about. And Jim is right - w/o the full conversion from TFI to DS-II and the removal of the EEC system your timing is going to be static. No advance. Or, you can go back to the full emissions system. But there is no halfway. Hmmm. Getting in a little over my head without a manual. What's the easiest route to go? Getting the whole stock emissions system together and having the computer working seems like it will be a bear? So on Static timing you use a test light like on an air cooled VW? Can't see how it will run good without the correct advance timing. Happy to buy a new distributor if that solves an issue. And also the stock air cleaner. The VW's have what is called an 009 Distributor that is centrifugal advance. No Vaccum. It's timed statically to get it running and then timed with a light for 30 degrees advance at 3000 rpm. Jim, is this what the other HEI dizzy is like? Anyone have a link to one? I think I would rather remove all of the computer system. Not sure what that entails though yet. Reading through the air cleaner system pages now. Thanks again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Hmmm. Getting in a little over my head without a manual. What's the easiest route to go? Getting the whole stock emissions system together and having the computer working seems like it will be a bear? So on Static timing you use a test light like on an air cooled VW? Can't see how it will run good without the correct advance timing. Happy to buy a new distributor if that solves an issue. And also the stock air cleaner. The VW's have what is called an 009 Distributor that is centrifugal advance. No Vaccum. It's timed statically to get it running and then timed with a light for 30 degrees advance at 3000 rpm. Jim, is this what the other HEI dizzy is like? Anyone have a link to one? I think I would rather remove all of the computer system. Not sure what that entails though yet. Reading through the air cleaner system pages now. Thanks again!! Yes, the third option is an HEI style distributor. These use vacuum as well as centrifugal advance. But (as a package: distributor, cap, rotor, coil & wires) they're the most economical solution. They offer a tach connection. They are easy to adjust the advance (unlike disassembling the DSII distributor) Be mindful you need one for the 'big' 300 I-6 not the smaller car engines, and that the rotor runs reverse to all the Ford V-8 engines. So you're aware of this when adjusting static or base timing. To set timing with the Push Start EEC-IV system you need to disconnect the SPark OUT (spout) connector. This removes computer control from the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 You have the later (1987-up) EFI dual exhaust manifolds on there FYI. They are not original to the truck. Definitely a former Feedback carb application with all the wiring coming through the firewall. Finish that DS-II swap and you can remove a whole bunch of that other stuff and really clean up that engine bay! This also means there's no heated plenum floor on your intake manifold. Long choke times and lots of fuel condensing out of the intake charge. But a factory air cleaner with heated inlet air to the snorkel will go a long way towards helping cold start atomization. David can probably find one for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 This also means there's no heated plenum floor on your intake manifold. Long choke times and lots of fuel condensing out of the intake charge. But a factory air cleaner with heated inlet air to the snorkel will go a long way towards helping cold start atomization. David can probably find one for you. This is so awesome. I am used to giving out lots of VW advice but not receiving so much! Any how-to's on this conversion? So far I am looking at: Buying the correct HEI Distributor package. Finding the stock air cleaner The blue EGR plate can stay the way it is capped off if there are no leaks OR I can find a non-emission adapter plate. The Truck has a dual exhaust manifold which does not seem like a prob. Removing the computer and wiring? Is it just tearing it out once the new HEI is installed? Sorry, so many questions. Really appreciate the responsiveness of this group! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 This is so awesome. I am used to giving out lots of VW advice but not receiving so much! Any how-to's on this conversion? So far I am looking at: Buying the correct HEI Distributor package. Finding the stock air cleaner The blue EGR plate can stay the way it is capped off if there are no leaks OR I can find a non-emission adapter plate. The Truck has a dual exhaust manifold which does not seem like a prob. Removing the computer and wiring? Is it just tearing it out once the new HEI is installed? Sorry, so many questions. Really appreciate the responsiveness of this group! There is a how to on DuraSpark conversion. The main difference is that with an HEI you will use the coil power wire to trigger a relay feeding the new distributor. There is no module, because everything is self-contained. I never go with "Rip it all out" Methodically dismantle, and unceremoniously slag it on the 'Free to a Good Home' marketplace thread, for those members that DO need to keep things as they were from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 This is so awesome. I am used to giving out lots of VW advice but not receiving so much! Any how-to's on this conversion? So far I am looking at: Buying the correct HEI Distributor package. Finding the stock air cleaner The blue EGR plate can stay the way it is capped off if there are no leaks OR I can find a non-emission adapter plate. The Truck has a dual exhaust manifold which does not seem like a prob. Removing the computer and wiring? Is it just tearing it out once the new HEI is installed? Sorry, so many questions. Really appreciate the responsiveness of this group! I think you have a good plan. But we don't have a how-to. However, it isn't that hard. If you are going with the HEI then you need a relay triggered by key-on and running hefty power directly from the battery as HEI's are power hungry. So use something like a #10 wire to provide the power. The ECU's wiring should be easy to remove as it is separate from the main wiring. IOW, the ECU has all its own sensors/senders and you can follow the wire from the ECU, remove the sender, and then remove the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 I think you have a good plan. But we don't have a how-to. However, it isn't that hard. If you are going with the HEI then you need a relay triggered by key-on and running hefty power directly from the battery as HEI's are power hungry. So use something like a #10 wire to provide the power. The ECU's wiring should be easy to remove as it is separate from the main wiring. IOW, the ECU has all its own sensors/senders and you can follow the wire from the ECU, remove the sender, and then remove the wire. Thanks, I think I will go with the HEI System but I will investigate the Duraspark system as well. I will def take my time removing the computer and associated parts and wires and post on "free to a good home" Any sources you guys use for these parts? I am on rockauto a lot. ( I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 conversion van I also work on) I also found this site: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/ Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Thanks, I think I will go with the HEI System but I will investigate the Duraspark system as well. I will def take my time removing the computer and associated parts and wires and post on "free to a good home" Any sources you guys use for these parts? I am on rockauto a lot. ( I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 conversion van I also work on) I also found this site: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/ Josh CRT offers an all in one with tach and plug wires for $150. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232042575815 JBG has some good offerings, especially on driveline components. I've bought an output yoke, alternator mount and many other components there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 CRT offers an all in one with tach and plug wires for $150. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232042575815 JBG has some good offerings, especially on driveline components. I've bought an output yoke, alternator mount and many other components there. Beautiful! Thanks. I am going to get that ordered! I have the new front shocks and oil and oil filter. I can get started on those. It's wild (at least to me) that the curved tubing around the exhaust goes to the electronic choke. Pretty cool looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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