ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Been a few days since I've done some work, was waiting for the weather to clear. OK, so I'm back at it with the no start issue. Yesterday I got a new starter solenoid, went with a Motorcraft instead of one from AdvanceO'NAPAZone. I've got everything hooked back up, turn the key, and the solenoid gives a single "click" and that's all. I currently have the starter hooked up (electric) and sitting on the core support. Seems like the solenoid is getting power, it's just isn't powering the starter. Any suggestions? When the relay clicks do you have full battery voltage at the starter end of the cable? You're sure the relay case has a good (clean metal) ground to the fender, and it is tightly bolted on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Been a few days since I've done some work, was waiting for the weather to clear. OK, so I'm back at it with the no start issue. Yesterday I got a new starter solenoid, went with a Motorcraft instead of one from AdvanceO'NAPAZone. I've got everything hooked back up, turn the key, and the solenoid gives a single "click" and that's all. I currently have the starter hooked up (electric) and sitting on the core support. Seems like the solenoid is getting power, it's just isn't powering the starter. Any suggestions? First, you got lucky! If that starter had gotten juice it would have jumped off that core support in a heart beat. Unless by "sitting" you mean you have it lashed down. Ever heard of "equal but opposite reaction"? When the armature turns one way the housing will turn the other at the same speed unless it is well and truly contained. I've seen guys lay the starter on the ground, put a 2x4 on top of it, and roll the vehicle onto the 2x4 to ensure the starter doesn't go anywhere when testing. Anyway, assuming your starter and relay are good you either have a bad cable or a bad connection. A way to check is via the voltage drop approach: Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Put the positive lead of your DVM on the battery's positive post and the negative lead on the relay's battery post and turn the key. You may see the voltage go to battery voltage, which means either the cable is bad or the connections are bad. Similarly, test across the relay by going battery to relay's starter terminal. Keep going until you find the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 When the relay clicks do you have full battery voltage at the starter end of the cable? You're sure the relay case has a good (clean metal) ground to the fender, and it is tightly bolted on? Also, how's the starter grounded when on the core support? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 First, you got lucky! If that starter had gotten juice it would have jumped off that core support in a heart beat. Unless by "sitting" you mean you have it lashed down. Ever heard of "equal but opposite reaction"? When the armature turns one way the housing will turn the other at the same speed unless it is well and truly contained. I've seen guys lay the starter on the ground, put a 2x4 on top of it, and roll the vehicle onto the 2x4 to ensure the starter doesn't go anywhere when testing. Anyway, assuming your starter and relay are good you either have a bad cable or a bad connection. A way to check is via the voltage drop approach: Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Put the positive lead of your DVM on the battery's positive post and the negative lead on the relay's battery post and turn the key. You may see the voltage go to battery voltage, which means either the cable is bad or the connections are bad. Similarly, test across the relay by going battery to relay's starter terminal. Keep going until you find the problem. I think the positive and ground cables are probably alright. He says the power windows work and doesn't mention them being sluggish. (Yes, I realize the windows are only 30A) But that suggests solenoid (new... again) Starter, possible but also 'new' and I think he had it checked Starter Cable, which is also new and seems hard to screw up. Again, I'm at a loss given what I know about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I think the positive and ground cables are probably alright. He says the power windows work and doesn't mention them being sluggish. (Yes, I realize the windows are only 30A) But that suggests solenoid (new... again) Starter, possible but also 'new' and I think he had it checked Starter Cable, which is also new and seems hard to screw up. Again, I'm at a loss given what I know about it. A 351W doesn't have a ground cable to the starter. Right? So, if the starter is just laying on the radiator support...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I think the positive and ground cables are probably alright. He says the power windows work and doesn't mention them being sluggish. (Yes, I realize the windows are only 30A) But that suggests solenoid (new... again) Starter, possible but also 'new' and I think he had it checked Starter Cable, which is also new and seems hard to screw up. Again, I'm at a loss given what I know about it. This one is interesting as it's pretty much down to the bare essentials at this point. Like mentioned, I'd test voltage on the solenoid starter output when the key is in crank/or terminals jumped. Starter disconnected. Then secure the starter on the ground and use some jumper cables to test it using the same battery that's in the truck. Then do the same test but put the solenoid and the battery-to-solenoid cable in the mix. So just move the positive jumper cable from the battery to the solenoid output. At this point it sounds like the same song second verse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 A 351W doesn't have a ground cable to the starter. Right? So, if the starter is just laying on the radiator support...... Gary, He has to be using jumper cables at this point. I DID ask, waaay back if the block connection was clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 Gary, He has to be using jumper cables at this point. I DID ask, waaay back if the block connection was clean. I'm not comfortable assuming that he's using jumpers cables. I hope so, but I'm just not comfortable assuming he is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Invisibleman13 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 I'm not comfortable assuming that he's using jumpers cables. I hope so, but I'm just not comfortable assuming he is. It starts!!! Just not sure why. The only thing I did different was, cut off a few wires for the aftermarket LED light, that was never hook up and pulled the relay for it. I turned the key and it cranked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 It starts!!! Just not sure why. The only thing I did different was, cut off a few wires for the aftermarket LED light, that was never hook up and pulled the relay for it. I turned the key and it cranked. Congrat's! Now if it quits as you hook the light up you'll know you did something wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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