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I think it needs to be tried.

But if:

A) the relay won't pull in.

B) the ground cable has just been changed (assuming it's tight) then I suspect something else is afoot.

What that could be is beyond me with the information presented.

*UPDATE* After having a long think about it, I pulled the starter relay off of my parts truck before I spent money on another one. After hooking everything back up, I turned the key and now I'm getting a click instead of nothing. So, I'm pulling the starter to get it checked out and I'll let you all know what I come up with. Thanks for all the help.

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*UPDATE* After having a long think about it, I pulled the starter relay off of my parts truck before I spent money on another one. After hooking everything back up, I turned the key and now I'm getting a click instead of nothing. So, I'm pulling the starter to get it checked out and I'll let you all know what I come up with. Thanks for all the help.

Took the starter to get it checked and, yes, it was bad. Got it exchanged, came home, put it on and all I'm getting is the relay to click. I've double checked all the hook ups (starter, ground, battery) and all looks good.I'm at a loss at this point. Thinking about having it towed to the repair shop

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Took the starter to get it checked and, yes, it was bad. Got it exchanged, came home, put it on and all I'm getting is the relay to click. I've double checked all the hook ups (starter, ground, battery) and all looks good.I'm at a loss at this point. Thinking about having it towed to the repair shop

What happens if you touch the cables directly?

Try taking all the spark plugs out.

Still no joy?

Try turning the crankshaft with a 15/16 socket.

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What happens if you touch the cables directly?

Try taking all the spark plugs out.

Still no joy?

Try turning the crankshaft with a 15/16 socket.

Touching the cables together causes a spark, but nothing from the starter. Tried jumping with a screwdriver just caused the relay to click. The truck ran great two weeks ago until the starter went out.

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Touching the cables together causes a spark, but nothing from the starter. Tried jumping with a screwdriver just caused the relay to click. The truck ran great two weeks ago until the starter went out.

But you don't get the staccato clicking indicative of a low battery?

Why did you go to the trouble of changing everything when the starter went out?

Are you able to turn the engine over by hand?

 

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But you don't get the staccato clicking indicative of a low battery?

Why did you go to the trouble of changing everything when the starter went out?

Are you able to turn the engine over by hand?

Sorry, I've been away a few days. The reason I changed everything was the negative terminal was cracked, the positive cable and starter cable had the insulation worn through and I figured since I'd gone that far, I might as well change the starter relay. The engine will turn over by hand. No clicking like would accompany a dead battery, although the starter is now acting like it's "binding"

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I'd say that too Scott.

But I'm trying to understand why it was doing this before invisible man changed every component of the starting system...

I mean if the battery, cables, relay and starter are all 'new' as stated, and he still can't get the relay to click, or the starter to turn when the cables are connected directly what's left?

It's obviously not a fault of the NSS or ignition switch.

I could see a faulty relay or it's not grounded well to the fender, that's not inconceivable.

But if you have lights and power windows in the cab but when you touch the starter cable with the battery positive and get 'nothing' something very odd is going on.

Even if the engine were seized or hydrolocked you'd get sparks and the starter struggling.

Years ago (the late seventies) I went through two or three "rebuilt" starters on my '69 Charger before I got one that worked. I opened one up and it was untouched inside. They had repainted it and sold it as rebuilt. Bastards.

Just a few years ago a "rebuilt" alternator blew up the battery, fried five computers and a relay, and burnt out all the lights that were on at the time of the "event" on an early nineties Nissan Sentra that I had installed the POS alternator on for a friend. Fortunately I found all the computers and relay at a u-pull-it for practially nothing and put the car back on the road. It was a really great car.

Mark

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Years ago (the late seventies) I went through two or three "rebuilt" starters on my '69 Charger before I got one that worked. I opened one up and it was untouched inside. They had repainted it and sold it as rebuilt. Bastards.

Just a few years ago a "rebuilt" alternator blew up the battery, fried five computers and a relay, and burnt out all the lights that were on at the time of the "event" on an early nineties Nissan Sentra that I had installed the POS alternator on for a friend. Fortunately I found all the computers and relay at a u-pull-it for practially nothing and put the car back on the road. It was a really great car.

Mark

I know there are quality rebuilders out there, but I only buy new now.

Gary has the charts and documentation for PMGR starters and 130A 3G somewhere on this site.

 

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Starter info, including PMGR's, is at Documentation/Engines/Starters. In my opinion, PMGR is the only way to go.

Been a few days since I've done some work, was waiting for the weather to clear. OK, so I'm back at it with the no start issue. Yesterday I got a new starter solenoid, went with a Motorcraft instead of one from AdvanceO'NAPAZone. I've got everything hooked back up, turn the key, and the solenoid gives a single "click" and that's all. I currently have the starter hooked up (electric) and sitting on the core support. Seems like the solenoid is getting power, it's just isn't powering the starter. Any suggestions?

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