School Me On Fuel Delivery Modules?

[Rusty_S85]

In a word, Arduino, as outlined here: Bricknose Sender to Bullnose Gauge Interface However, seeing the sender stuck on the side of the FDM with a couple of screws got me to wondering if that's the best solution.

My guideline has been to build Big Blue in a way that my offspring can maintain it easily later. And that suggests not grafting a Bullnose sender onto the side of a later pump. Instead, building the interface to make the later unit work perfectly in a Bullnose.

However, there's one minor glitch with that - the float arm on the rear sending unit will have to be modified anyway if the reading is to be accurate. That's because I going with a 38 gallon rear tank and there's no FDM for that. But I realized last night that I could buy the FDM for a Bronco, which has a 33 gallon tank, and the sending unit's reading might be close enough to be acceptable.

But, since the Bronco only has one tank does its FDM have the check valves? More thinking to be done.

Would you consider swapping your gauge cluster?

Ive been hounding Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro series of gauge clusters for our 80 - 86 trucks like they did with the late 70`s trucks.

Here are two photos of what I am talking about for the RTX Retro series, they look identical to the original gauges and even have a digital rolling mechanical looking odometer.

and when you turn the lights on the "normal" border lights up with hash marks and numbers listing the actual readings. These gauges are very nice ive installed numerous VDX which is just like the RTX but they are more modern looking. They have the ability to set any sending unit to read properly even universal aftermarket gauges that do not fall under any factory scale.

I really want to get one for my truck as it frees up more options due to how you can adjust and make it read right with what you get. Would cut out your need of building a interface if they do eventually make it from demands and it would also allow you to adjust your speedometer through fine tuning to be as percise as you want.

I really want one of these for my trucks as it will be better than adding under the dash gauges to get proper temp, oil, and volt gauges.

[Gary Lewis]

Would you consider swapping your gauge cluster?

Ive been hounding Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro series of gauge clusters for our 80 - 86 trucks like they did with the late 70`s trucks.

Here are two photos of what I am talking about for the RTX Retro series, they look identical to the original gauges and even have a digital rolling mechanical looking odometer.

and when you turn the lights on the "normal" border lights up with hash marks and numbers listing the actual readings. These gauges are very nice ive installed numerous VDX which is just like the RTX but they are more modern looking. They have the ability to set any sending unit to read properly even universal aftermarket gauges that do not fall under any factory scale.

I really want to get one for my truck as it frees up more options due to how you can adjust and make it read right with what you get. Would cut out your need of building a interface if they do eventually make it from demands and it would also allow you to adjust your speedometer through fine tuning to be as percise as you want.

I really want one of these for my trucks as it will be better than adding under the dash gauges to get proper temp, oil, and volt gauges.

No, I'm not ready to swap gauges. There's nothing wrong with these, and I just painted the needles, installed a voltmeter instead of the ammeter, added an adjustable ICVR, and HiPo LED's.

[Rusty_S85]

No, I'm not ready to swap gauges. There's nothing wrong with these, and I just painted the needles, installed a voltmeter instead of the ammeter, added an adjustable ICVR, and HiPo LED's.

Thats understandable. It would be a good option though down the road though. Could throw any fuel sending unit you want or change tire sizes or gear ratios and never have to worry about recalibrating as you can do it in the gauges itself

[71_badmach]

Would you consider swapping your gauge cluster?

Ive been hounding Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro series of gauge clusters for our 80 - 86 trucks like they did with the late 70`s trucks.

Here are two photos of what I am talking about for the RTX Retro series, they look identical to the original gauges and even have a digital rolling mechanical looking odometer.

and when you turn the lights on the "normal" border lights up with hash marks and numbers listing the actual readings. These gauges are very nice ive installed numerous VDX which is just like the RTX but they are more modern looking. They have the ability to set any sending unit to read properly even universal aftermarket gauges that do not fall under any factory scale.

I really want to get one for my truck as it frees up more options due to how you can adjust and make it read right with what you get. Would cut out your need of building a interface if they do eventually make it from demands and it would also allow you to adjust your speedometer through fine tuning to be as percise as you want.

I really want one of these for my trucks as it will be better than adding under the dash gauges to get proper temp, oil, and volt gauges.

That's a nice looking cluster...

[Rusty_S85]

That's a nice looking cluster...

It is, its $1,200 but its super slim, it has like 1000 different color choices for lighting, you can customize the display message centers, you can buy add ons to read ambient air temp, transmission temp, oil temp, compass, ect.

Its why I want it cause I planned on getting the add on to read transmission temp as well as ambient air temp and compass. Only thing I dont like is the 8,000 rpm tach and the 120 mph speedometer. I dont think any of us would be driving our trucks to 120 but thats not too bad. the 8,000 rpm is one I dont care for. Could at least put it at 7,000, I dont think any of us would have trucks with a engine capable of turning over 6,000 rpm.

But I am bugging them every month with an email trying to urge them to make one for the 80 - 86 trucks. They didnt have the VHX series for the 80-86 they finally released it 2 years ago and now they release the Retro so I hope they will release the 80-86 Retro series in the next 4 or 5 years.

Also another neat feature every time you open the door the odometer will light up in its digital mechanical tumbler look just like a late model car. Only down side is these clusters do not have dim capability where you can vary the dim. They just have a day and night mode you preset and it switches to night mode like our clocks do when the headlights are on. I always leave my dimmer at full so I would set the dash to be the same brightness at night time as the rest of my LED lights.

[Gary Lewis]

I do already have the 38 gallon tank. It came from Vernon and has the strap extensions.

But, I see what you mean about the electrical connector. I'd missed that. Not only does RA seem to show only the later style, so does Amazon. Apparently the vendors have all gone over to that style.

And I do have the check valves.

I think what I'm going to do is to pull out the FDM's I have and see if I think I need to replace the pumps. And, check the sending unit for continuity and smoothness. This may not be as simple as I'd hoped.

However, I could change the wiring to the later style connector and make it easy for replacement later. In fact, IIRC one of my connectors isn't in good shape. So, when was the change made? '96?

Ok, got the fuel delivery modules out today. One was literally trailing rust everywhere I took it. Obviously toast. So that was my guinea pig. I pulled the sending unit, which comes off easily with three screws and then un-plugs from the connector. But the sending unit wasn't continuous in its sweep.

Then I decided to take the plastic housing off to get to the pump and valves. Man, that was a chore! There are several, like maybe seven, plastic snaps that have to be freed. But if you get one or two on one side when you work on the other side you hear SNAP and you lost the first side. I finally got out some small screws and when I got one loose I put a screw in to keep it apart. But even then it probably took me close to an hour to finally get it apart. And it was full of rust.

Given that, I'm pretty sure I do not want to replace the pumps w/in the housing. Instead, I think I'm going to buy the complete FDMs. But first I'll spend time tomorrow to make sure that the FDM's fit the tanks properly.

I'll pick this discussion up in Big Blue's Transformation thread as there are other aspects that are specific to Big Blue.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, got the fuel delivery modules out today. One was literally trailing rust everywhere I took it. Obviously toast. So that was my guinea pig. I pulled the sending unit, which comes off easily with three screws and then un-plugs from the connector. But the sending unit wasn't continuous in its sweep.

Then I decided to take the plastic housing off to get to the pump and valves. Man, that was a chore! There are several, like maybe seven, plastic snaps that have to be freed. But if you get one or two on one side when you work on the other side you hear SNAP and you lost the first side. I finally got out some small screws and when I got one loose I put a screw in to keep it apart. But even then it probably took me close to an hour to finally get it apart. And it was full of rust.

Given that, I'm pretty sure I do not want to replace the pumps w/in the housing. Instead, I think I'm going to buy the complete FDMs. But first I'll spend time tomorrow to make sure that the FDM's fit the tanks properly.

I'll pick this discussion up in Big Blue's Transformation thread as there are other aspects that are specific to Big Blue.

Did some work on the fuel delivery modules today, and took some pics along the way. Here's a shot of a full FDM, showing the sending unit side and how it attaches:

Here's the other side showing the connections:

And here are two different sending units, either of which will bolt right on any of the FDM's.

And here's an FDM taken apart. The piece at the top is the "hanger" that is mentioned in many of the advertisements. Then below that is the FDM itself, with the piece on the left which has the pump and valves. That piece goes into the housing on the right, and it snaps in with so many snaps that it is very difficult to get apart, and I don't believe replacing the pump itself is worth it.

And in all of the advertisements they say if you don't replace that filter/sock you void the warranty. Want to know why? Take a look at what was in this one:

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Did some work on the fuel delivery modules today, and took some pics along the way. Here's a shot of a full FDM, showing the sending unit side and how it attaches:

Here's the other side showing the connections:

And here are two different sending units, either of which will bolt right on any of the FDM's.

And here's an FDM taken apart. The piece at the top is the "hanger" that is mentioned in many of the advertisements. Then below that is the FDM itself, with the piece on the left which has the pump and valves. That piece goes into the housing on the right, and it snaps in with so many snaps that it is very difficult to get apart, and I don't believe replacing the pump itself is worth it.

And in all of the advertisements they say if you don't replace that filter/sock you void the warranty. Want to know why? Take a look at what was in this one:

Lol. Your table looks like mine.

That's some ugly in there.

The old tank must be a mess.

So, are you going with early sender's and doing away with the Arduino idea?

I like KISS

[85lebaront2]

Did some work on the fuel delivery modules today, and took some pics along the way. Here's a shot of a full FDM, showing the sending unit side and how it attaches:

Here's the other side showing the connections:

And here are two different sending units, either of which will bolt right on any of the FDM's.

And here's an FDM taken apart. The piece at the top is the "hanger" that is mentioned in many of the advertisements. Then below that is the FDM itself, with the piece on the left which has the pump and valves. That piece goes into the housing on the right, and it snaps in with so many snaps that it is very difficult to get apart, and I don't believe replacing the pump itself is worth it.

And in all of the advertisements they say if you don't replace that filter/sock you void the warranty. Want to know why? Take a look at what was in this one:

So what you determined is that the gauge senders will physically interchange even though they are electrically different? If so that is a great find!

[Gary Lewis]

So what you determined is that the gauge senders will physically interchange even though they are electrically different? If so that is a great find!

No guys, I led you astray. What I should have said is that any sender from any FDM will screw onto any other FDM. Sorry.

I could make a bracket to put a Bullnose sender on an FDM. The Bullnose senders have a smaller hole spacing so it would be possible to do that. But my intent has been to build it now so it can be maintained. Tell them it is a 1995 truck and they can buy FDM's and put them right in, and the Arduino will translate. In other words, I'm trying to future-proof it.