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85 F150 302 EFI upgrade/aftermarket modification


71_badmach

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It's a GM style one-wire, advertised as 140 amp.

How are you going to wire it in? That's important as the shunt, assuming that your truck has an ammeter, is only good for about half of what your alternator can crank out. So if you have a dead battery you'll fry that shunt if wired the wrong way.

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Also a must have for me was a nice serpentine conversion system to get rid of the obnoxious bracketry on the front of the engine. I have been admiring these on the rod scene for many years, and I helped justify it to myself by liking the fact that the all-inclusive kit came with new water pump, AC compressor, alternator, and Power steering pump to replace the 35 year old components (more or less...some were likely replaced). I went with CVF Racing's system for the Ford small block... called the Wraptor. It came all in one box, and just has some nice components with the anodized aluminum covers and main bracket that bolts through the water pump with 4 bolts. Had to buy some new hex head sockets for all the cap screws, but it does make for a nice look.

That's nice, Dave. I know what you mean about those brackets and such too. As I have recently replaced my water pump, power steering pump, and am looking at doing something with my AC, and the fact that my alternator is the original OEM unit, might have been worth it to make that change myself. That's really not a bad price for that system. Thanks for sharing!

 

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Also a must have for me was a nice serpentine conversion system to get rid of the obnoxious bracketry on the front of the engine. I have been admiring these on the rod scene for many years, and I helped justify it to myself by liking the fact that the all-inclusive kit came with new water pump, AC compressor, alternator, and Power steering pump to replace the 35 year old components (more or less...some were likely replaced). I went with CVF Racing's system for the Ford small block... called the Wraptor. It came all in one box, and just has some nice components with the anodized aluminum covers and main bracket that bolts through the water pump with 4 bolts. Had to buy some new hex head sockets for all the cap screws, but it does make for a nice look.

That's nice, Dave. I know what you mean about those brackets and such too. As I have recently replaced my water pump, power steering pump, and am looking at doing something with my AC, and the fact that my alternator is the original OEM unit, might have been worth it to make that change myself. That's really not a bad price for that system. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks guys for the inputs and feedback. You're welcome John for the reference.

The alternator wire harness is 8 gauge and will be wired direct to the battery. There is a 200amp blade type fuse in the big plastic holder I have mocked up on the fender where the old voltage regulator used to be. I'll also run a ground back to the case with the same gauge wire... I got the setup from Eastwood.

I do have an ammeter (gauge) in the instrument panel... will have to do some kind of sense wire/idiot light to replace that eventually. I think Kramttocs referenced a Rocketman setup, but I haven't found that yet.

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Also a must have for me was a nice serpentine conversion system to get rid of the obnoxious bracketry on the front of the engine. I have been admiring these on the rod scene for many years, and I helped justify it to myself by liking the fact that the all-inclusive kit came with new water pump, AC compressor, alternator, and Power steering pump to replace the 35 year old components (more or less...some were likely replaced). I went with CVF Racing's system for the Ford small block... called the Wraptor. It came all in one box, and just has some nice components with the anodized aluminum covers and main bracket that bolts through the water pump with 4 bolts. Had to buy some new hex head sockets for all the cap screws, but it does make for a nice look.

That's nice, Dave. I know what you mean about those brackets and such too. As I have recently replaced my water pump, power steering pump, and am looking at doing something with my AC, and the fact that my alternator is the original OEM unit, might have been worth it to make that change myself. That's really not a bad price for that system. Thanks for sharing!

IMG_0608.jpg.d3bedda298bd4b41738c7c5956082c38.jpg

My mistake, the wire is 6ga... too many "gauges" running around my head haha

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Thanks guys for the inputs and feedback. You're welcome John for the reference.

The alternator wire harness is 8 gauge and will be wired direct to the battery. There is a 200amp blade type fuse in the big plastic holder I have mocked up on the fender where the old voltage regulator used to be. I'll also run a ground back to the case with the same gauge wire... I got the setup from Eastwood.

I do have an ammeter (gauge) in the instrument panel... will have to do some kind of sense wire/idiot light to replace that eventually. I think Kramttocs referenced a Rocketman setup, but I haven't found that yet.

Check out our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade and then the Ammeters & Voltmeters tab. There's a link in there to Rocketman, and there's a wiring diagram showing how I wired Big Blue's voltmeter that replaced his ammeter.

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He's closed for the month of July ....

https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all

Thanks Gary, and Jim for the link. He has quite a website. I'll check it out.

I had thought of using the "Emissions" bulb in the top row of the dash lights as a trouble light for a low voltage condition. Saw somewhere that there is a inline circuit that will plug into a run hot circuit and tell you if the voltage drops below 11 or so.

In my harness, the emissions trouble bulb has been taken out, I'm assuming when the air pump was removed. I haven't found that circuitry referenced in the wiring diagrams yet, but it seems to have its own relay. There is a brown "box" that has an opening that is marked "reset". Does that ring a bell with yall for EFI trucks? I can get pictures if you need a better understanding of what I'm referring to.

 

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Thanks Gary, and Jim for the link. He has quite a website. I'll check it out.

I had thought of using the "Emissions" bulb in the top row of the dash lights as a trouble light for a low voltage condition. Saw somewhere that there is a inline circuit that will plug into a run hot circuit and tell you if the voltage drops below 11 or so.

In my harness, the emissions trouble bulb has been taken out, I'm assuming when the air pump was removed. I haven't found that circuitry referenced in the wiring diagrams yet, but it seems to have its own relay. There is a brown "box" that has an opening that is marked "reset". Does that ring a bell with yall for EFI trucks? I can get pictures if you need a better understanding of what I'm referring to.

Check out this TSB: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/89-22-08-emissions-maintenance-warning-module.html. Is that what you have? If so, that might be a good use of that "window". You could create a label to warn of Alternator or Battery.

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Check out this TSB: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/89-22-08-emissions-maintenance-warning-module.html. Is that what you have? If so, that might be a good use of that "window". You could create a label to warn of Alternator or Battery.

Amazing, thank you Gary. Yes, for my year it would be "Emissions" and I assume the brown box with a reset port is some sort of counter that converts to mileage. Picture to follow.

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