Valve cover gasket

[BullnoseLuvr]

Yes, those would be my pick as well. But make sure you make the valve covers flat as they are almost always dented at the bolt holes. That will mean the gasket will be squeezed there but not elsewhere.

I turn the valve covers upside down and lay the edge on the edge of my work table, and then use a small hammer to flatten them.

What he said. Take a hammer and pound out the dimples at the bolt holes until the flanges are flat. Once they’re good I think any old gasket will do. I installed whatever the chain part store flung over the counter at me and they haven’t leaked a drop in years.

[hubcityford]

I think the valve gasket replacement has gone good so far. I got bolts finger tight. Haynes manual for V8 small block says 132-168 in-lbs. I have an 1981 V8 4.2L 255. The covers are original and thank goodness in great shape so I don’t want to over tighten bolts and warp covers. Does this torque specification sound correct? And does it change torque if I used Felpro gasket and not cork. I also will be purchasing my first torque wrench and think I need some guidance. The only other need for torque wrench in foreseeable future is to replace plugs. I assume they come in different torque ranges?

The one issue I have run into is the insulated return tube connecting the hot air choke and exhaust manifold. The tube at the manifold is rusted and about to break. Where can I pick up a replacement and how is it attached to the manifold? And lastly, can I run the truck if this tube is broken?

Sorry for the long post and multiple questions but having no experience in this I value all of your expertise.

Jeremy

[Rusty_S85]

I think the valve gasket replacement has gone good so far. I got bolts finger tight. Haynes manual for V8 small block says 132-168 in-lbs. I have an 1981 V8 4.2L 255. The covers are original and thank goodness in great shape so I don’t want to over tighten bolts and warp covers. Does this torque specification sound correct? And does it change torque if I used Felpro gasket and not cork. I also will be purchasing my first torque wrench and think I need some guidance. The only other need for torque wrench in foreseeable future is to replace plugs. I assume they come in different torque ranges?

The one issue I have run into is the insulated return tube connecting the hot air choke and exhaust manifold. The tube at the manifold is rusted and about to break. Where can I pick up a replacement and how is it attached to the manifold? And lastly, can I run the truck if this tube is broken?

Sorry for the long post and multiple questions but having no experience in this I value all of your expertise.

Jeremy

There is no real spec in the manuals I have for valve covers but the manuals I have do list torque specs for different fasteners based off their size.

1/4-20 : grade 1 or 2 - 5ft lbs / grade 5 - 8ft lbs / grade 6 or 7 - 10ft lbs

1/4-28 : grade 1 or 2 - 6ft lbs / grade 5 - 10ft lbs / grade 6 or 7 - 19ft lbs

5/16-18 : grade 1 or 2 - 11ft lbs / grade 5 - 17ft lbs / grade 6 or 7 - 19ft lbs

5/16-24 : grade 1 or 2 - 13ft lbs / grade 5 - 19ft lbs / grade 6 or 7 - 19ft lbs

Honestly I wouldnt go over 10ft lbs as a max. generally 5 to 7 ft lbs is what normally is done. Valve covers especially if you run cork you dont want to over tighten. Running rubber gaskets you have a little more leeway as they will compress and wont tear or squeeze out.

Also most of the rubber ones Ive seen have little metal dowels to prevent you from over crushing so all you need to do is snug it down and then give it a little more and you should be set.

You can convert in-lbs spec to ft-lbs if it makes life easier for you, I do it all the time mainly cause 132 - 168 inch-lbs is 11 to 14 ft-lbs and my inch-lbs 1/4 drive torque wrench does not go up to 100 inch pounds anyways.

Also source I have online since my sources dont have a bunch of torque specs such as this lists all windsor V8's the torque spec for valve covers to cylinder heads are 4ft lbs. Thats another thing be careful even Ford shop manuals can be wrong. My shop manual for my '56 Fairlane is an actual 1956 printed Ford manual it as well as aftermarket manuals list main caps torque spec as 120 ft-lbs but that is incorrect, it should be 95 ft-lbs. So even Ford printed sources can have errors and I strongly recommend you double and triple check. Best bet is to take your bolt size and consider the max torque rating of said fastener and you can reduce it by a little and be in the ball park of OE spec on something not as vital as valve covers.

Me I will be using 5ft-lbs to have a round number as im using rubber gaskets as well as Proform Ford Racing valve covers that has quite a thick sealing flange and you can easily snap a bolt off in the head or pull the aluminum threads out before you get any kind of deforming like you do with OE stamped valve covers

So spec you have listed is 11 to 14 ft lbs. Honestly I think that is a bit high especially considering that the valve cover bolts are on the small size.

On the hot air choke parts I dont believe you can buy anything pre made youd have to buy a universal hot air choke tube and make your own. thats what I had to do with my truck, wasnt like my '56 where I was able to purchase the inlet, outlet, stove, elbows, and choke thermostat pieces to replace mine.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think the valve gasket replacement has gone good so far. I got bolts finger tight. Haynes manual for V8 small block says 132-168 in-lbs. I have an 1981 V8 4.2L 255. The covers are original and thank goodness in great shape so I don’t want to over tighten bolts and warp covers. Does this torque specification sound correct? And does it change torque if I used Felpro gasket and not cork. I also will be purchasing my first torque wrench and think I need some guidance. The only other need for torque wrench in foreseeable future is to replace plugs. I assume they come in different torque ranges?

The one issue I have run into is the insulated return tube connecting the hot air choke and exhaust manifold. The tube at the manifold is rusted and about to break. Where can I pick up a replacement and how is it attached to the manifold? And lastly, can I run the truck if this tube is broken?

Sorry for the long post and multiple questions but having no experience in this I value all of your expertise.

Jeremy

Unfortunately, no matter what Haynes or Clymer manuals say it seems a lot of information is boilerplate, if or downright contrary to the factory shop manuals.

Think about the old hotrod T or Y style valve cover extended nuts.

They had to adjust their valves manually (all the time)

I typically use a 1/4" ratchet and grab it by the head.

From there it is easy to get the covers tight enough but difficult to distort the flange unless you're really trying to.

[Rembrant]

I typically use a 1/4" ratchet and grab it by the head.

From there it is easy to get the covers tight enough but difficult to distort the flange unless you're really trying to.

I use my 1/4" ratchets A LOT for this very reason, on all bolts. My 3/8" doesn't come out unless the hex head is 9/16" or larger.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Unfortunately, no matter what Haynes or Clymer manuals say it seems a lot of information is boilerplate, if or downright contrary to the factory shop manuals.

Think about the old hotrod T or Y style valve cover extended nuts.

They had to adjust their valves manually (all the time)

I typically use a 1/4" ratchet and grab it by the head.

From there it is easy to get the covers tight enough but difficult to distort the flange unless you're really trying to.

Correct, but even still Ford printed manuals are wrong on cases as well too. Its why when it comes to fastners that are not vital such as valve cover or timing cover or oil pan I torque to about 75% to 85% of the max torque rating of said fastener size and let it ride. I wouldnt do something like that with something vital such as main bearing caps or rod caps I would want to find the proper spec.