1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project

[ArdWrknTrk]

Examples...any other ideas?

Option #1 seems it would be easiest, but you lose the integrity of the tube and it is going to move a lot when you weld one edge of what has become a 3" wide strip.

We're it me my first choice would be to braze #3.

Filling it completely up and filing the brass back to flush when done.

Properly prepped braze can easily exceed the 70k tensile of most MIG wire and the heat isn't nearly as concentrated.

You could even tack weld it and then braze.

Brass will never rust, and since it is visually different it is easy to gauge your progress back to flat.

Plus, no body filler at all!

But hey, I'm old and this is how things used to get done.

[Rembrant]

Option #1 seems it would be easiest, but you lose the integrity of the tube and it is going to move a lot when you weld one edge of what has become a 3" wide strip.

We're it me my first choice would be to braze #3.

Filling it completely up and filing the brass back to flush when done.

Properly prepped braze can easily exceed the 70k tensile of most MIG wire and the heat isn't nearly as concentrated.

You could even tack weld it and then braze.

Brass will never rust, and since it is visually different it is easy to gauge your progress back to flat.

Plus, no body filler at all!

But hey, I'm old and this is how things used to get done.

I think I'll simply MIG number 3. I'll make some blocks that are same thickness as the tubing OD, and that way I can clamp it all in plate. I'll stitch it all along, and then fill it in afterwards. In the off chance that it leaves an unsightly mark, I'll put bedliner on it. Done.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I'll simply MIG number 3. I'll make some blocks that are same thickness as the tubing OD, and that way I can clamp it all in plate. I'll stitch it all along, and then fill it in afterwards. In the off chance that it leaves an unsightly mark, I'll put bedliner on it. Done.

Do you think you can brake that crease after welding?

If going to weld all the way, use hundreds of tiny tacks to keep distortion at a minimum.

Progress is good, Cory!

[Rembrant]

Do you think you can brake that crease after welding?

If going to weld all the way, use hundreds of tiny tacks to keep distortion at a minimum.

Progress is good, Cory!

I'm not too worried about it Jim...16 gauge is pretty heavy...nothing like regular body sheet metal which is what, 20 or 22 gauge? Worse case scenario I can weld in a couple gussets on the underside where they can't be seen. Even if it took me a few days to weld the whole length, I don't really care.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'll simply MIG number 3. I'll make some blocks that are same thickness as the tubing OD, and that way I can clamp it all in plate. I'll stitch it all along, and then fill it in afterwards. In the off chance that it leaves an unsightly mark, I'll put bedliner on it. Done.

I'd try #3 using some scrap and see how it goes. But my experience with my welding is that I'd sure have a lot of grinding to do. And that's at a very visible spot.

Have you checked with Tabco? Do they have them? Would they make them?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you think you can brake that crease after welding?

If going to weld all the way, use hundreds of tiny tacks to keep distortion at a minimum.

Progress is good, Cory!

I'm not too worried about it Jim...16 gauge is pretty heavy...nothing like regular body sheet metal which is what, 20 or 22 gauge? Worse case scenario I can weld in a couple gussets on the underside where they can't be seen. Even if it took me a few days to weld the whole length, I don't really care.

In your section drawings you show the inside going straight down, but in my recollection the top of the bed sides angled in before going vertical.

Please help me out here.

I'm having a senior moment....

I know the body panels I use are 19Ga.

[Rembrant]

I'd try #3 using some scrap and see how it goes. But my experience with my welding is that I'd sure have a lot of grinding to do. And that's at a very visible spot.

Have you checked with Tabco? Do they have them? Would they make them?

Gary,

That was my plan. Pick up a couple feet of tubing and get a couple pieces of 16ga bent up and run some tests at various speeds and temps.

Nobody makes these bed sides unfortunately. They are about the only bed sides that are not being made today. I'm sure it's because the Ford side panels, I believe starting in 1978 and running all the way through to 1987 have the fender tubs stamped into the sides...which is not easy to replicate. All of the other "step side" trucks just had flat side panels...which are easy to replicate by comparison.

 

[Rembrant]

In your section drawings you show the inside going straight down, but in my recollection the top of the bed sides angled in before going vertical.

Please help me out here.

I'm having a senior moment....

That was 1977 and earlier, I believe. Starting in 1978 they look like my picture above, with the flat tops.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

In your section drawings you show the inside going straight down, but in my recollection the top of the bed sides angled in before going vertical.

Please help me out here.

I'm having a senior moment....

That was 1977 and earlier, I believe. Starting in 1978 they look like my picture above, with the flat tops.

Thanks!

I rarely see Flaresides on the road, and never as many as on this forum.

I know how Theo's Aeronose Flareside looks, but that seems a lot different from '80's trucks with its integral running boards and all the rest.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I'd try #3 using some scrap and see how it goes. But my experience with my welding is that I'd sure have a lot of grinding to do. And that's at a very visible spot.

Have you checked with Tabco? Do they have them? Would they make them?

Gary,

That was my plan. Pick up a couple feet of tubing and get a couple pieces of 16ga bent up and run some tests at various speeds and temps.

Nobody makes these bed sides unfortunately. They are about the only bed sides that are not being made today. I'm sure it's because the Ford side panels, I believe starting in 1978 and running all the way through to 1987 have the fender tubs stamped into the sides...which is not easy to replicate. All of the other "step side" trucks just had flat side panels...which are easy to replicate by comparison.

That makes sense, Cory. Good luck on the trials. Hopefully you'll find a way that works nicely and is easy to finish.