1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project

[Machspeed]

Today was frame repair day (I've had a couple of these with this project, considering I've rebuild 2 crossmembers and stiffened up a couple spots on the frame previously). The one bad spot in the rear section of the frame was around the right rear leaf spring hanger.

I didn't take as many pictures as I normally would have as I was in a bit of a rush today, but I cut two big chunks of frame out and welded in fresh 1/8" plate, outlines below:

I welded them on both sides and ground them smooth so that they're not visible, at least from the outside. I also added some extra plates on the inside for extra strength...probably not necessary, but I did it anyway. I'm going to weld in some 1" wide 1/8" flat bar along in the inside of the bottom flange to strengthen it up as well.

In the end the right hand leaf pack is all installed (temporarily as I still need to get the front bushings sorted out). I have a few more little things to weld in, but the hard work is all done now. I should have a whole bunch of easy stuff over the next few weeks...installing new shocks, gas tank and fuel line, brake lines, etc. Once it is all soaked with Fluid Film black it'll look great.

Oh well, life in the land of rust. This frame was not perfect, but it was way better than the one that was in this truck. It is 15 years newer after all lol.

Corey, surprised that while you had access to the frame that you did not use POR or even paint it. Maybe I missed it, but why did you go the Fluid Film route over other options? BTW, did you spray the Fluid Film or brush it on? I'm enjoying your build, buddy.

[Rembrant]

Corey, surprised that while you had access to the frame that you did not use POR or even paint it. Maybe I missed it, but why did you go the Fluid Film route over other options? BTW, did you spray the Fluid Film or brush it on? I'm enjoying your build, buddy.

John thanks for the reply. I have not put any of the Fluid Film black on it yet. That is only for later when it is finished and ready for the road.

The whole frame has now been ground down with a cup wheel on my angle grinder, and then coated with a treatment of Ospho (brushed on). I then clean up the frame again and have been painting with black rust paint. It probably looks kind of weird because I have been doing it all in small sections, a little bit at a time. It’s just the way the project has played out I sort of had to assemble it and refurb the frame as I went along.

The black fluid film is for later as a protectant.

I know most people like POR-15, but I personally don’t care for the stuff. I’ve tried it before and maybe I did something wrong but I just didn’t like how it applied. I’ve been having good luck with the Ospho and black rust paint. I have a paint gun if I need to paint a bigger area but I’ll often use rattle cans or small cans and a brush for the hard to reach areas.

[Machspeed]

John thanks for the reply. I have not put any of the Fluid Film black on it yet. That is only for later when it is finished and ready for the road.

The whole frame has now been ground down with a cup wheel on my angle grinder, and then coated with a treatment of Ospho (brushed on). I then clean up the frame again and have been painting with black rust paint. It probably looks kind of weird because I have been doing it all in small sections, a little bit at a time. It’s just the way the project has played out I sort of had to assemble it and refurb the frame as I went along.

The black fluid film is for later as a protectant.

I know most people like POR-15, but I personally don’t care for the stuff. I’ve tried it before and maybe I did something wrong but I just didn’t like how it applied. I’ve been having good luck with the Ospho and black rust paint. I have a paint gun if I need to paint a bigger area but I’ll often use rattle cans or small cans and a brush for the hard to reach areas.

I've not used POR 15 so I can't comment. I have a very good friend whom does very high end Mustang builds (has built several replicas of the Eleanor movie car) and he swears by the stuff. It appears there is a love/hate attitude towards it.

[Rembrant]

I've not used POR 15 so I can't comment. It appears there is a love/hate attitude towards it.

Ya I think you’re right. I haven’t used it much but I did buy a sample kit a few years back that had all the prep products and black POR-15. I found it to be really runny so it was tough to use on vertical surfaces, and it dries really dull looking. Other than that I suppose it was fine. I may not have used it right and maybe didn’t give it enough of a chance, but I just went back to what I know which is paint. I’ve been really happy with the Ospho product so far as well. It’s runny and I like that so it will get into all the cracks and crevices that thicker material will not. You can also see where it works too.

I guess we find the products we like and stick with them LOL.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've not used POR 15 so I can't comment. I have a very good friend whom does very high end Mustang builds (has built several replicas of the Eleanor movie car) and he swears by the stuff. It appears there is a love/hate attitude towards it.

Let's face it, it's just self etching acid cure paint

Your Mustang buddy probably does an incredible amount of prep, just like Pete does with his master silver.

Because if you don't, and oxygen can get under it, now you have a bigger problem for a vehicle that's actually driven.

Blisters, and the fact that moisture can't evaporate.

I don't live in anything like a perfect world.

I'd rather a self-healing (fluid film) over a passivated surface that is open to dry up.

[Rembrant]

Tricky.

I'd be tempted to slit the sleeve so it could compress that 3/4mm

I just received my new bushings yesterday and that slit idea is looking better all the time...lol. They are indeed 0.030" larger on the OD, but they're a much heavier bushing. The outer shell on these is not thin sheet metal like usual, these shell on this guys has got to be 1/8" thick...it's definitely not going to give or deform in any way. Anyway, I'll get them in there one way or another. If they look like they'll be a problem I'll put a slit in them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Tricky.

I'd be tempted to slit the sleeve so it could compress that 3/4mm

I just received my new bushings yesterday and that slit idea is looking better all the time...lol. They are indeed 0.030" larger on the OD, but they're a much heavier bushing. The outer shell on these is not thin sheet metal like usual, these shell on this guys has got to be 1/8" thick...it's definitely not going to give or deform in any way. Anyway, I'll get them in there one way or another. If they look like they'll be a problem I'll put a slit in them.

Maybe aftermarket replacement are made oversize to be sure they are tight?

Fortunately you have a fork lift and a press.

I can't imagine how much fun I'd have using a 5/8 bolt, sledgehammer and a stump.

Have you made a decision on your bed yet?

[Rembrant]

Maybe aftermarket replacement are made oversize to be sure they are tight?

Fortunately you have a fork lift and a press.

I can't imagine how much fun I'd have using a 5/8 bolt, sledgehammer and a stump.

Have you made a decision on your bed yet?

A forklift, and two presses! We have the little manual one I use most of the time (12 ton, I think) and a much larger one that is electric/hydraulic...probably 30 ton or more...not sure. That's why I say, one way or another that bushing IS going in there...lol.

Decision on the bed? Do you mean what am I going to do for the bed floor? I'm going to start working on the bed soon...

[Gary Lewis]

Maybe aftermarket replacement are made oversize to be sure they are tight?

Fortunately you have a fork lift and a press.

I can't imagine how much fun I'd have using a 5/8 bolt, sledgehammer and a stump.

Have you made a decision on your bed yet?

A forklift, and two presses! We have the little manual one I use most of the time (12 ton, I think) and a much larger one that is electric/hydraulic...probably 30 ton or more...not sure. That's why I say, one way or another that bushing IS going in there...lol.

Decision on the bed? Do you mean what am I going to do for the bed floor? I'm going to start working on the bed soon...

Yeah, that slit idea is sounding better and better. But I guess there's a chance the eye will open up and accommodate the larger diameter. Good luck!

[Rembrant]

Yeah, that slit idea is sounding better and better. But I guess there's a chance the eye will open up and accommodate the larger diameter. Good luck!

The new larger bushings went in without any drama at all. I cleaned the springs eyes out with a flapper wheel on the drill, wiped a dab a grease in the hole, and pressed the bushings in. They're nice and tight.

Springs are back on and and everything is torqued in place. I even took the forklift and set a pallet with a few hundred pounds on it on top of the frame to squat it a bit while I tightened everything down. Bolted the crossmember and upper shock mounts all back in place, spent another couple hours welding, and then finished painting. The old frame is now plated in various spots on the inside to strengthen and reinforce it.

Oh, and I stuck the Flareside bumper on it.

I guess that ends the 1995 frame swap...it's all complete now, more or less. I had to enlarge one set of frame holes for the bed...second set back from the cab were just small holes with plastic pads snapped in them. It wasn't much, but more or less enlarged them from about 7/16" to 5/8" (for the 1/2" bed bolts, or what were originally the slightly smaller M12 bolts).

There really won't be any way for people to tell that it has a 1995 frame other than where I modified it to fit the Bullnose bumper on it. The rear upper shock mount holes are a little different...they are indented on the 1995 frame...not sure when that started, but my 1984 frame is not like this. I assume Ford did this since it was such a problem area for rusting? "Lift" the shock mount off the frame a little bit and get it room to let the dirt and debris fall out.

Now I'm waiting for boxes from LMC and RockAuto with a bunch of odds and ends and misc rear braking components. After that will be fuel tank and rear shocks. I've already started working on the Flareside bed at home. I'm feeling confident that the old heap will be on the road this summer....it might not be pretty, but it will be mobile.