Gary Lewis Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 You said it was running quite rich, have you pulled any of the plugs to see what they look like? Part of what you describe sounds electrical related "shut off and the throttle went forward" that would indicate a loss of electrical power to the idle solenoid on the side of the carburetor. Since it is fed by the same source as the ignition system, that may be your problem. With it running, try slightly turning the key slightly back and forth, if the engine shuts off with very little motion towards "off" I would suspect the ignition switch, particularly if is the original or even just plain old. Good point, Bill. I caught that bit about the throttle going forward, but hadn't put 2 & 2 together that the throttle going forward was the cause of it stalling and not the other way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Good point, Bill. I caught that bit about the throttle going forward, but hadn't put 2 & 2 together that the throttle going forward was the cause of it stalling and not the other way around. Throttle going forward is indicative of loss of ignition system power, which by itself might not kill the engine as it is most likely an anti-dieseling solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 With it running, try slightly turning the key slightly back and forth, if the engine shuts off with very little motion towards "off" I would suspect the ignition switch, particularly if is the original or even just plain old. Thanks Bill - I'll have to check that tomorrow morning. The ignition switch itself was replaced about 1.5 years ago by the same shop that did the carb and my headlight switch. Always worth a check! I was doing some searching trying to see if I could an NOS or OEM dashpot solenoid as mine looks a bit tired. No joy so far. (e2ae-9s520-ab) That's the first time I've ever really had the truck just die like that too. If I feather the gas a little bit it eventually catches idle again and holds. So, embarassing question time - where is the warm idle set screw on the right side of the carb? Is it the little slotted set screw behind the plate that meets the plunger from the solenoid? Or is it the threaded bolt that adjusts the position of the dashpot solenoid? It's been so long since I monkeyed with the carburetor that I can't remember! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 With it running, try slightly turning the key slightly back and forth, if the engine shuts off with very little motion towards "off" I would suspect the ignition switch, particularly if is the original or even just plain old. Thanks Bill - I'll have to check that tomorrow morning. The ignition switch itself was replaced about 1.5 years ago by the same shop that did the carb and my headlight switch. Always worth a check! I was doing some searching trying to see if I could an NOS or OEM dashpot solenoid as mine looks a bit tired. No joy so far. (e2ae-9s520-ab) That's the first time I've ever really had the truck just die like that too. If I feather the gas a little bit it eventually catches idle again and holds. So, embarassing question time - where is the warm idle set screw on the right side of the carb? Is it the little slotted set screw behind the plate that meets the plunger from the solenoid? Or is it the threaded bolt that adjusts the position of the dashpot solenoid? It's been so long since I monkeyed with the carburetor that I can't remember! It is the threaded bolt that slides the whole assembly, but there should be a screw through the base of the carburetor behind the throttle shaft, that is used to set the minimum idle, primarily so the throttle plates don't stick. The small slotted screw in the lever is a "don't mess with it" it is for the TV rod to your AOD transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 It is the threaded bolt that slides the whole assembly, but there should be a screw through the base of the carburetor behind the throttle shaft, that is used to set the minimum idle, primarily so the throttle plates don't stick. The small slotted screw in the lever is a "don't mess with it" it is for the TV rod to your AOD transmission. I know this might seem simple but how about any cracked or missing vacuum caps. "rubber these days". what Ya gonna do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 The small slotted screw in the lever is a "don't mess with it" Well...poop. Without thinking I did move it but am pretty sure I have it close to where it was before. Specifically adjusting that idle screw - I might tighten it up a bit to raise the warm idle if this continues. The solenoid really doesn't seem to be actuating. I know this might seem simple but how about any cracked or missing vacuum caps. "rubber these days". what Ya gonna do? Great point. I went over everything vacuum related the other day while trying to figure out what the one nipple on the back of the carb was for (air to the heated choke assembly if you have that apparently). I didn't notice anything but it is always worth a look! (There are a couple lines that were capped off my by grandfather and his brother - I have no idea what they go to. More time with the vacuum digram should help)Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 The small slotted screw in the lever is a "don't mess with it" Well...poop. Without thinking I did move it but am pretty sure I have it close to where it was before. Specifically adjusting that idle screw - I might tighten it up a bit to raise the warm idle if this continues. The solenoid really doesn't seem to be actuating. I know this might seem simple but how about any cracked or missing vacuum caps. "rubber these days". what Ya gonna do? Great point. I went over everything vacuum related the other day while trying to figure out what the one nipple on the back of the carb was for (air to the heated choke assembly if you have that apparently). I didn't notice anything but it is always worth a look! (There are a couple lines that were capped off my by grandfather and his brother - I have no idea what they go to. More time with the vacuum digram should help) Been a bit but I finally moved into my house so the truck has a proper home again. Now to unpack boxes and actually find my tools so I can work on it. Adjusting the fuel/air screws with a vacuum gauge has helped tremendously when it comes to the truck actually running. However, cold starts are still a problem. Even after sitting just one night - it's difficult to start the next day. I'm worried about the number of times I've had to use some starting fluid to get it to fire off and start. Things I've tried: -When it has been sitting for several days (up to a week) - 4x or so pumps to the pedal to get fuel to the bowl. No joy. (I can't remember who on here suggested this to me) -When it's been 24 hours, 1 or 2 pumps of the gas pedal to start it. Sometimes I get a quick almost start but usually no joy. One thing I'm glad to note is that the power drain I thought I had going on was actually due to the solar tender I put on the truck to keep the battery topped up during longer sits. So, I'm at a loss as to next steps. The engine is cranking strong off the battery and I can smell gas after a few cranks but no joy on the engine firing. I checked the choke prior to my last cold start and the butterfly was about right in terms of how closed it was. I'll get a gauge/drill bit (3/16"?) to double check the choke setting. I'm now trying to drive it 1x a week at least to keep it 'exercised'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Been a bit but I finally moved into my house so the truck has a proper home again. Now to unpack boxes and actually find my tools so I can work on it. Adjusting the fuel/air screws with a vacuum gauge has helped tremendously when it comes to the truck actually running. However, cold starts are still a problem. Even after sitting just one night - it's difficult to start the next day. I'm worried about the number of times I've had to use some starting fluid to get it to fire off and start. Things I've tried: -When it has been sitting for several days (up to a week) - 4x or so pumps to the pedal to get fuel to the bowl. No joy. (I can't remember who on here suggested this to me) -When it's been 24 hours, 1 or 2 pumps of the gas pedal to start it. Sometimes I get a quick almost start but usually no joy. One thing I'm glad to note is that the power drain I thought I had going on was actually due to the solar tender I put on the truck to keep the battery topped up during longer sits. So, I'm at a loss as to next steps. The engine is cranking strong off the battery and I can smell gas after a few cranks but no joy on the engine firing. I checked the choke prior to my last cold start and the butterfly was about right in terms of how closed it was. I'll get a gauge/drill bit (3/16"?) to double check the choke setting. I'm now trying to drive it 1x a week at least to keep it 'exercised'. This is a subject in another thread right now as well. Basically if the fuel evaporates from your float bowl cranking the engine (to get the mechanical pump to prime the carb) is the only answer, short of filling the floats manually. I have to do this if I let my truck sit for long enough. Is your charcoal canister and purge valve connected to the carb breather? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 This is a subject in another thread right now as well. Basically if the fuel evaporates from your float bowl cranking the engine (to get the mechanical pump to prime the carb) is the only answer, short of filling the floats manually. I have to do this if I let my truck sit for long enough. Is your charcoal canister and purge valve connected to the carb breather? So, that's good - you've confirmed what I assumed is happening. Cranking the engine causes the manual fuel pump to cycle and draw fuel to the carb. That also jives with smelling fuel after a few (3-4x) 15 second cranks. On the charcoal canister and purge valve...I actually don't think it is connected to the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 So, that's good - you've confirmed what I assumed is happening. Cranking the engine causes the manual fuel pump to cycle and draw fuel to the carb. That also jives with smelling fuel after a few (3-4x) 15 second cranks. On the charcoal canister and purge valve...I actually don't think it is connected to the carb. I only asked because a disconnected EVAP system makes it easier for the bowl to dry out. (vapor pressure and all that) It happens to my truck sometimes, if I neglect it. A 60cc syringe of the tru-fuel I keep for the mower down the standpipe has the truck starting right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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