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1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"


JMUBullnose

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I've always used a new factory washer.

It's really thin and coated in a black (or dark grey) film.

I never cross threaded mine, but even using a backup wrench I eventually pulled the threads out of the float bowl.

At least back then I was able to get a new one from a Mecury dealer in White Plains.

But the 2V, IDK...

Oh, I use a rubber washer under the wingnut.

And...

I have the same initials, JMU.

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I've always used a new factory washer.

It's really thin and coated in a black (or dark grey) film.

I never cross threaded mine, but even using a backup wrench I eventually pulled the threads out of the float bowl.

At least back then I was able to get a new one from a Mecury dealer in White Plains.

But the 2V, IDK...

Time for me to ask the stupid question...."Wait, there's a factory washer for the fuel filter?!" I've never seen one when looking at them online (to purchase, etc).

JMU aren't my actual initials - just the University I went to.

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I've always used a new factory washer.

It's really thin and coated in a black (or dark grey) film.

I never cross threaded mine, but even using a backup wrench I eventually pulled the threads out of the float bowl.

At least back then I was able to get a new one from a Mecury dealer in White Plains.

But the 2V, IDK...

Time for me to ask the stupid question...."Wait, there's a factory washer for the fuel filter?!" I've never seen one when looking at them online (to purchase, etc).

JMU aren't my actual initials - just the University I went to.

At least with the 4180, when you buy a filter at the dealer it comes with a new washer to go between the filter housing and float bowl.

The fuel line end is flare, and flares NEVER get any sealant

Hmmm.

Interesting.... 🤔

.

I didn't know you went to Joe Mama University.

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  • 4 months later...

And, to save you tracing, a white/black wire should go to the back of the alternator to the S terminal, which stands for Stator. But look closely at what lettering there is on the black choke cap. Some tell the voltage, and that makes a huge difference. If it is 12v then it is an all-electric cap, which should be used with a choke casting with the hot air port blank, meaning closed. But if it says 6 or 7 volts, I don't remember which, it is for use with hot air.

Gary - I did trace the wire and it definitely leads to the alternators S terminal. The choke cap has nothing else on it other than the part number from what I can tell.

Switching topics - I pulled the blower motor today to see why I'm getting leaves and got a good deal on a new one with blower wheel. Only thing is, did not come with a gasket. Does anyone know where the gaskets can be bought on their own? I see some of the kits on Rock Auto have the gasket included (now...d'oh!).

BlowerLeaves_-_Copy.jpg.3a199704dbdeb8314175d93f315efd6e.jpg

New and Old Motors:

OldvsNew.jpg.e745d54646298952affb54a08d1ceb7e.jpg

Also had to chuckle - the motor I pulled must be the second one that's in the truck because I discovered the OEM connector was attached to the fan power leads with wire nuts. Had to chuckle.

Connections.jpg.89b023575050578df65b49621038175e.jpg

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And, to save you tracing, a white/black wire should go to the back of the alternator to the S terminal, which stands for Stator. But look closely at what lettering there is on the black choke cap. Some tell the voltage, and that makes a huge difference. If it is 12v then it is an all-electric cap, which should be used with a choke casting with the hot air port blank, meaning closed. But if it says 6 or 7 volts, I don't remember which, it is for use with hot air.

Gary - I did trace the wire and it definitely leads to the alternators S terminal. The choke cap has nothing else on it other than the part number from what I can tell.

Switching topics - I pulled the blower motor today to see why I'm getting leaves and got a good deal on a new one with blower wheel. Only thing is, did not come with a gasket. Does anyone know where the gaskets can be bought on their own? I see some of the kits on Rock Auto have the gasket included (now...d'oh!).

New and Old Motors:

Also had to chuckle - the motor I pulled must be the second one that's in the truck because I discovered the OEM connector was attached to the fan power leads with wire nuts. Had to chuckle.

Alright - I have no idea how I did that. Even made sure to open the images and save them rotated the right way! Now they're cascading....:nabble_smiley_sleep:

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And purchased in case it is right. Looks right.

Now to figure out where the leaves are coming in from. Anyone ever fixed

that?

Leaves are coming in from the cowl above.

Be careful that leaves don't get on the blower resistor because they will catch fire.

Some people glue screen on the underside of their cowl.

Some people use an '87-90 cowl that has dots instead of slots.

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Leaves are coming in from the cowl above.

Be careful that leaves don't get on the blower resistor because they will catch fire.

Some people glue screen on the underside of their cowl.

Some people use an '87-90 cowl that has dots instead of slots.

Agreed on the leaves, I pulled the blower motor from my Ranger for the first time since 2003, and there were way too many leaves for comfort in there. The resistor on my Ranger is much closer to the blower motor than a bullnose truck, so the leaves were piled right in front of it. :nabble_head-slap-23_orig:

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