ArdWrknTrk Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Wow - I have not been on here actively in a while. It seems to sync up with when I started a certificate program that was running on the weekends. NO Saturdays at all this Summer. Woof! Luckily that wraps up this Saturday...just in time for me to head SE in a small plane. (Here's hoping Dorian doesn't do too much damage to the small airports) I haven't been able to revisit the choke/tuning yet but plan to. However, I DID change the oil & filter over the long weekend and also spent some time degreasing the caked on gunk on the underside of the transmission. Not sure where it came from or if it still is leaking but we'll see soon. I'm going to add some fluorescing dye and drive around a bit if I can get time this weekend - there is even caked grease/oil/gunk on *top* of the bell housing. So, hopefully I'll figure out where the leak is coming from in the next month or so. Could be rear main seal, could be valve covers. Hopefully cooler weather is on the way but with that brings the necessity of figuring out the cold weather starting issues. So, I'll chase the wire coming off the choke heater and see if it goes to Alternator. The LMC power windows that my grandfather put in are great, except all of a sudden the Driver's side kit is skipping when I try to raise the window. Hopefully just a misaligned gear and I can reinstall. Goes up just fine if I give it some help by pulling on the top of the window. Always a project! But I do love this truck. The skipping is probably the plastic 'spools' in the regulator. I'm sure the drivers side has seen a lot more use. The repair is not difficult, but you do have to remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 The skipping is probably the plastic 'spools' in the regulator. I'm sure the drivers side has seen a lot more use. The repair is not difficult, but you do have to remove it. That was my feeling as well. My concern is more to do with finding a replacement piece if it's worn out. However, I did just get a 3D printer for my birthday - maybe I can print one if needed...after I figure out how to use it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 The skipping is probably the plastic 'spools' in the regulator. I'm sure the drivers side has seen a lot more use. The repair is not difficult, but you do have to remove it. That was my feeling as well. My concern is more to do with finding a replacement piece if it's worn out. However, I did just get a 3D printer for my birthday - maybe I can print one if needed...after I figure out how to use it! You can buy the Dorman repair kit in the HELP! section. Some people even use 5/16 nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 You can buy the Dorman repair kit in the HELP! section. Some people even use 5/16 nuts. Well Today I Learned! I had no idea they had those over there in the HELP! section. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Well Today I Learned! I had no idea they had those over there in the HELP! section. Thanks! I used short pieces of vacuum hose. The pieces are in there to cushion things, and sometimes they get old and crumble. The pieces of hose worked perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Well Today I Learned! I had no idea they had those over there in the HELP! section. Thanks! The chinese Dorman plugs are even crappier than the originals, and they degrade in less than a decade. These - not so much: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1088462/thumbnail/motornuts.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 The chinese Dorman plugs are even crappier than the originals, and they degrade in less than a decade. These - not so much: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1088462/thumbnail/motornuts.jpg I can't even tell what I'm looking at. Can you explain? I don't think of an LMC kit as original....*** Hell, I'd be quite happy if $3.99 and an hour of my time bought me a decade of functional power windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 I can't even tell what I'm looking at. Can you explain? I don't think of an LMC kit as original....*** Hell, I'd be quite happy if $3.99 and an hour of my time bought me a decade of functional power windows. I think those are metal hexnuts to replace nylon ones on the window motor gear. Now that I have my weekends back - I hope to start looking into this stuff this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 I think those are metal hexnuts to replace nylon ones on the window motor gear. Now that I have my weekends back - I hope to start looking into this stuff this weekend. Took some time this weekend to read through one of the manuals my Grandfather left with me for the truck - I think it's the Ford "DIY" (Chilton equivalent). I was reading about the fuel filter since I've got a slight leak there and noticed it called for a Ford thread sealant to be applied to the filter threads prior to install. Anyone out there do this? I was so afraid of cross threading the filter into the carb and also not over tightening it that may be a sealant could assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 Took some time this weekend to read through one of the manuals my Grandfather left with me for the truck - I think it's the Ford "DIY" (Chilton equivalent). I was reading about the fuel filter since I've got a slight leak there and noticed it called for a Ford thread sealant to be applied to the filter threads prior to install. Anyone out there do this? I was so afraid of cross threading the filter into the carb and also not over tightening it that may be a sealant could assist. I've always used a new factory washer. It's really thin and coated in a black (or dark grey) film. I never cross threaded mine, but even using a backup wrench I eventually pulled the threads out of the float bowl. At least back then I was able to get a new one from a Mecury dealer in White Plains. But the 2V, IDK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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