1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"

[Gary Lewis]

If I can find it, I have a rebuild kit laying around with a new 2-stage power valve in it for my carb from Mike's Carburetor Parts.

What do I need to pay attention to if I pull off the carb to check on the power valve? Any recalibration I should be aware of ?

Swapping the power valve requires the removal of the carb, but once it is off you just turn it upside down and pull the cover to the PV. So there's not much to go wrong save for not getting the gasket on the PV correctly or the gasket on the lid not being on right.

Here's a really poor pic of the two different types of power valve covers. The top one should be the one you have with internal passages, and the bottom one has an external hose that goes to the intake manifold for vacuum.

[JMUBullnose]

Swapping the power valve requires the removal of the carb, but once it is off you just turn it upside down and pull the cover to the PV. So there's not much to go wrong save for not getting the gasket on the PV correctly or the gasket on the lid not being on right.

Here's a really poor pic of the two different types of power valve covers. The top one should be the one you have with internal passages, and the bottom one has an external hose that goes to the intake manifold for vacuum.

Thanks Gary! That's one of the images I've been using as a reference :)

As you might've guessed, I haven't yanked the carb before. Was concerned I was going mess something up and have to recalibrate everything - I'll just have to be careful.

Now to find the rebuild kit I bought. Its in one of these boxes labeled parts...hopefully it's actually in the one that says "Truck Parts"

[JMUBullnose]

Thanks Gary! That's one of the images I've been using as a reference :)

As you might've guessed, I haven't yanked the carb before. Was concerned I was going mess something up and have to recalibrate everything - I'll just have to be careful.

Now to find the rebuild kit I bought. Its in one of these boxes labeled parts...hopefully it's actually in the one that says "Truck Parts"

Replaced that hose and the occasional small fuel leak on the manifold is gone (still need to pull the carb and replace the power valve).

I hadn't driven the truck in about 3 weeks, jumped in it on Monday and low and behold had it running in under a minute! After it warmed up - I drove it about 30 miles to a family member's house to pick up some furniture. Ran great!

Oddities started to occur when I got back in to start it up after loading it (and visiting with family of course). Turned the key and engine turned over once, hesitated and then turned over a couple more times and then caught.

Drove back 30 miles, stopped at the gas station to fill the front tank. Same thing when I went to start the truck. Turn the key, one turn, a second of hesitation and then it turned over again and fired.

Got home (2 miles later), parked it. On a whim I figured I would see what happened when I tried to start it. Very slow, weak starting - like the battery was near flat. No signs of power loss while operating the truck. Never got it to start. Popped hood, thought I smelled an electric burned smell over by the battery (where the solenoid is). Let vehicle sit a day or two - went back out and it cranked strong and the motor caught after 2 or 3 cranks. I let it idle for 20 minutes or so while I worked on something else. Shut it off and it started right back up with half a second of hesitation.

So - I'm at a loss as to what might be causing this. Thoughts on what to check?

[Gary Lewis]

Replaced that hose and the occasional small fuel leak on the manifold is gone (still need to pull the carb and replace the power valve).

I hadn't driven the truck in about 3 weeks, jumped in it on Monday and low and behold had it running in under a minute! After it warmed up - I drove it about 30 miles to a family member's house to pick up some furniture. Ran great!

Oddities started to occur when I got back in to start it up after loading it (and visiting with family of course). Turned the key and engine turned over once, hesitated and then turned over a couple more times and then caught.

Drove back 30 miles, stopped at the gas station to fill the front tank. Same thing when I went to start the truck. Turn the key, one turn, a second of hesitation and then it turned over again and fired.

Got home (2 miles later), parked it. On a whim I figured I would see what happened when I tried to start it. Very slow, weak starting - like the battery was near flat. No signs of power loss while operating the truck. Never got it to start. Popped hood, thought I smelled an electric burned smell over by the battery (where the solenoid is). Let vehicle sit a day or two - went back out and it cranked strong and the motor caught after 2 or 3 cranks. I let it idle for 20 minutes or so while I worked on something else. Shut it off and it started right back up with half a second of hesitation.

So - I'm at a loss as to what might be causing this. Thoughts on what to check?

I think you have a poor connection. That might be the end of the cable to the battery or the relay, or it might be the wire inside to the end of the cable - meaning the terminal.

My first thing to do would be to check that all of the connection are clean. Pull the cables off and make sure everything is clean, and the connection are tight when you put them back.

But if you have that problem again then gingerly check for a hot connection. Feel the end of the cable near the connection. Is it hot or warm? If so, that cable is bad.

[JMUBullnose]

I think you have a poor connection. That might be the end of the cable to the battery or the relay, or it might be the wire inside to the end of the cable - meaning the terminal.

My first thing to do would be to check that all of the connection are clean. Pull the cables off and make sure everything is clean, and the connection are tight when you put them back.

But if you have that problem again then gingerly check for a hot connection. Feel the end of the cable near the connection. Is it hot or warm? If so, that cable is bad.

Thanks Gary! I'll have to check - the positive cable from battery to relay definitely is a bit rough looking and likely needs replacement....but first I'll do like you said and check the connections. I swear I could hear a kinda crinkling noise like when plastic melts or burns up after the last attempt to start the truck on Monday (where it just wouldn't fire).

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary! I'll have to check - the positive cable from battery to relay definitely is a bit rough looking and likely needs replacement....but first I'll do like you said and check the connections. I swear I could hear a kinda crinkling noise like when plastic melts or burns up after the last attempt to start the truck on Monday (where it just wouldn't fire).

There is another potential problem - the starter. As the bearings in a starter wear the armature gets closer and closer to the field laminations until it finally touches. But it first touches when the starter is hot, like from driving. And when it touches it slows the starter, so the engine doesn't spin very well, and it draws a LOT more current. So that fits some of your symptoms.

However, that doesn't fit the smell and noise. But, a worn starter puts a much larger load on the battery & starter cables, so if they are marginal you'll have a problem there as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There is another potential problem - the starter. As the bearings in a starter wear the armature gets closer and closer to the field laminations until it finally touches. But it first touches when the starter is hot, like from driving. And when it touches it slows the starter, so the engine doesn't spin very well, and it draws a LOT more current. So that fits some of your symptoms.

However, that doesn't fit the smell and noise. But, a worn starter puts a much larger load on the battery & starter cables, so if they are marginal you'll have a problem there as well.

If you have a meter that will record a peak reading you can set it up for voltage drop.

This can make internal resistance of a cable or component a lot easier to find.

[JMUBullnose]

If you have a meter that will record a peak reading you can set it up for voltage drop.

This can make internal resistance of a cable or component a lot easier to find.

Alrighty - follow up!

I replaced the positive lead from the battery to the relay and cleaned the connections... Hooked up the starter trigger and clicked it. Sparks shooting from the negative side of relay! I guess the loose end was on the negative side. It was throwing sparks like a welder! (Which is basically what it was doing )

I disconnected everything, cleaned the surfaces and put it back together. Truck started cranking like it was supposed to. Right now letting it just idle while supervising kids playing in the driveway. Positive cable is not hot or warm to the touch. Negative is a bit though.

Speaking of starters - I have noticed some... Over run (?) Of the starter after the engine starts. A quick grinding noise and then it stops.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Alrighty - follow up!

I replaced the positive lead from the battery to the relay and cleaned the connections... Hooked up the starter trigger and clicked it. Sparks shooting from the negative side of relay! I guess the loose end was on the negative side. It was throwing sparks like a welder! (Which is basically what it was doing )

I disconnected everything, cleaned the surfaces and put it back together. Truck started cranking like it was supposed to. Right now letting it just idle while supervising kids playing in the driveway. Positive cable is not hot or warm to the touch. Negative is a bit though.

Speaking of starters - I have noticed some... Over run (?) Of the starter after the engine starts. A quick grinding noise and then it stops.

Bendix getting sticky and not retracting?

[JMUBullnose]

Bendix getting sticky and not retracting?

Got the carb pulled off - are the nuts supposed to be that easy to take off? Barely took any leverage to break them free. The fuel line from the fuel filter took much more gusto! (Probably a good thing)

Looking at the spacer gaskets between the carb and the intake, I'm wondering if the one that goes from intake to EGR (?) spacer has ever been replaced.