AC Rebuilding Quesion?

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan,

Package showed up today just don't know when I will be able to clean / paint and install it.

Been up since 11pm last night for work just got home long enough to stuff a tuna wrap in me and back to bed as I got to be up at 2:30am for work tomorrow.

Then when I get home I have to make the weekly trash run with the pick up.

If I have anything left I will clean & paint the pulley. Sunday I have to cut the grass as I am loosing my cats in it, goofed off last weekend and did not cut it.

Thanks again for the part

Dave G.

Getting closer to having AC in the truck.

Today was work on the truck day.

In swapping the pulley I found the fan only had 3 bolts holding it on so had to make a trip to the hardware store so I replace all 4 bolts.

Got the ALY & PS belts back on but needed to get the AC belt for it as I returned the belt I had because it did not fit the smaller pulley that was on the wrong pulley.

BTW the right pulley was 1" smaller dia. (6") than the wrong one (7"), I don't know what that will do for cooling both the motor & condenser?

I then flushed the evap coil. I could not find the $50 flush kits local and no one has rubbing alky. with this virus going around so I used Prep Sol.

It is used in body work to prep panels before any work & painting to rid panels of oil and leave nothing behind.

What came out was clean just a little tint from oil that was it. I also passed a lot of air thru it to make sure it was clear of the Prep Sol.

Then figured how much oil to add to each part of the system and added it to each part. Ever try and pour oil into a small line? Not fun at all.

I put oil on the O-rings and installed all the hoses so I should have a sealed system if all is right.

With tools in hand I went for the AC belt, first tried the one I returned (17585) thinking with the 1" smaller dia. it may work and it did not still to small.

Then tried a 17620 and it was to big, had to go with a 17600 and was able to get it tight right there in the parking lot.

May try pulling a vacuum tonight just so I know the system is sealed but it is damn hot in the garage even with the fan blowing.

Yesterday I picked up a gauge set and vacuum pump from HF.

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

Getting closer to having AC in the truck.

Today was work on the truck day.

In swapping the pulley I found the fan only had 3 bolts holding it on so had to make a trip to the hardware store so I replace all 4 bolts.

Got the ALY & PS belts back on but needed to get the AC belt for it as I returned the belt I had because it did not fit the smaller pulley that was on the wrong pulley.

BTW the right pulley was 1" smaller dia. (6") than the wrong one (7"), I don't know what that will do for cooling both the motor & condenser?

I then flushed the evap coil. I could not find the $50 flush kits local and no one has rubbing alky. with this virus going around so I used Prep Sol.

It is used in body work to prep panels before any work & painting to rid panels of oil and leave nothing behind.

What came out was clean just a little tint from oil that was it. I also passed a lot of air thru it to make sure it was clear of the Prep Sol.

Then figured how much oil to add to each part of the system and added it to each part. Ever try and pour oil into a small line? Not fun at all.

I put oil on the O-rings and installed all the hoses so I should have a sealed system if all is right.

With tools in hand I went for the AC belt, first tried the one I returned (17585) thinking with the 1" smaller dia. it may work and it did not still to small.

Then tried a 17620 and it was to big, had to go with a 17600 and was able to get it tight right there in the parking lot.

May try pulling a vacuum tonight just so I know the system is sealed but it is damn hot in the garage even with the fan blowing.

Yesterday I picked up a gauge set and vacuum pump from HF.

Dave ----

I have a question on wiring the compressor.

The York uses 1 wire, B - Y H and plugs into 1 wire on the York.

This new Sanden has a 2 wire plug, think Pink & Tan.

My question is, does it make a difference what wire I use to power the clutch and the other to ground?

Think this is the last thing needed before I can start to charge the system.

I did look up the wiring for a 85 and it showed the B - Y H 1 wire setup.

Thanks

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

I have a question on wiring the compressor.

The York uses 1 wire, B - Y H and plugs into 1 wire on the York.

This new Sanden has a 2 wire plug, think Pink & Tan.

My question is, does it make a difference what wire I use to power the clutch and the other to ground?

Think this is the last thing needed before I can start to charge the system.

I did look up the wiring for a 85 and it showed the B - Y H 1 wire setup.

Thanks

Dave ----

Dave - I don't think it matters as you are just powering a magnetic clutch, so one side gets power and the other gets ground. But I'd check with my meter first to ensure that neither wire is grounded already.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave - I don't think it matters as you are just powering a magnetic clutch, so one side gets power and the other gets ground. But I'd check with my meter first to ensure that neither wire is grounded already.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n68294/1985-etm-page146.jpg

Thank you I don't know why I did not think to use a meter to see if 1 side was grounded all ready

I think what is throwing me off is the replacement pig tail has pink & tan wires but what I found and you are showing list the B - Y H wire and not what the pig tail has.

Guess they could use any color wire to make it?

Thanks again

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - I don't think it matters as you are just powering a magnetic clutch, so one side gets power and the other gets ground. But I'd check with my meter first to ensure that neither wire is grounded already.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n68294/1985-etm-page146.jpg

Thank you I don't know why I did not think to use a meter to see if 1 side was grounded all ready

I think what is throwing me off is the replacement pig tail has pink & tan wires but what I found and you are showing list the B - Y H wire and not what the pig tail has.

Guess they could use any color wire to make it?

Thanks again

Dave ----

Ford was pretty good about using the same colors across models of vehicles, but they might have changed the color to the A/C clutch at some point. Dunno.

Anyway, if there are two wires it isn't likely one is grounded, but it won't hurt to check.

[FuzzFace2]

Ford was pretty good about using the same colors across models of vehicles, but they might have changed the color to the A/C clutch at some point. Dunno.

Anyway, if there are two wires it isn't likely one is grounded, but it won't hurt to check.

I did check and neither spade went to ground so I wired 1 spade hot and the other to ground and it worked.

Thanks

Dave ----

 

[FuzzFace2]

Ford was pretty good about using the same colors across models of vehicles, but they might have changed the color to the A/C clutch at some point. Dunno.

Anyway, if there are two wires it isn't likely one is grounded, but it won't hurt to check.

I did check and neither spade went to ground so I wired 1 spade hot and the other to ground and it worked.

Thanks

Dave ----

Well I don't know if I have a good or bad charge?

When I first started the vacuum pump it pulled down 10 HG so I let it set for 10 min. while I did other things and lost vacuum?

Did it 1 more time and was like WTH! Went over some fittings, rechecked the gauge valves and think I did not have it open all the way and in no time pulled down to 28 HG.

This time when I turned off the pump I pulled the line off the pump and put it on the gauge set. This time it held 28 HG for over an hour so called it good.

Put the pump back on while I did the electrical side of this install and it pulled down to 30 HG by the time I pulled it off a few hours later.

I could not hook up the high side of the gauge as it needs an adaptor so I have no reading on that side.

I put 1 12oz can in with the motor off as the vacuum pulled it in.

I started the motor and the pump was going on & off a sign of low charge. 2nd can the pump stayed on all the time as did the 3rd can. I did not add the full 3rd can only about half.

When done it was blowing cool but not cold. Gauge at idle reads about 45 psi and 50 on the R134 and when you bring the RPM up it drops but did not see to what.

It was 100* in the garage and with a IR temp gun was getting 69* out of the vent with fan on high.

As said it blows cool but not cold and does not feel like it gets colder when driving. You can feel it is cooler inside the truck when you get in as I did a trash run.

As I was charging the system I did not feel the vents blowing any colder than they do now like when I saw frost on the evap at the orifice valve area, also a sign of low charge IIRC.

I am using a blue orifice valve should it have been a different color? I was told that would be good.

So what do I need to do to get it colder? I would think as small as the cab is I should get frozen out. What did I miss?

Dave ----

[grumpin]

Well I don't know if I have a good or bad charge?

When I first started the vacuum pump it pulled down 10 HG so I let it set for 10 min. while I did other things and lost vacuum?

Did it 1 more time and was like WTH! Went over some fittings, rechecked the gauge valves and think I did not have it open all the way and in no time pulled down to 28 HG.

This time when I turned off the pump I pulled the line off the pump and put it on the gauge set. This time it held 28 HG for over an hour so called it good.

Put the pump back on while I did the electrical side of this install and it pulled down to 30 HG by the time I pulled it off a few hours later.

I could not hook up the high side of the gauge as it needs an adaptor so I have no reading on that side.

I put 1 12oz can in with the motor off as the vacuum pulled it in.

I started the motor and the pump was going on & off a sign of low charge. 2nd can the pump stayed on all the time as did the 3rd can. I did not add the full 3rd can only about half.

When done it was blowing cool but not cold. Gauge at idle reads about 45 psi and 50 on the R134 and when you bring the RPM up it drops but did not see to what.

It was 100* in the garage and with a IR temp gun was getting 69* out of the vent with fan on high.

As said it blows cool but not cold and does not feel like it gets colder when driving. You can feel it is cooler inside the truck when you get in as I did a trash run.

As I was charging the system I did not feel the vents blowing any colder than they do now like when I saw frost on the evap at the orifice valve area, also a sign of low charge IIRC.

I am using a blue orifice valve should it have been a different color? I was told that would be good.

So what do I need to do to get it colder? I would think as small as the cab is I should get frozen out. What did I miss?

Dave ----

This is my opinion. (Disclaimer). I would add refrigerant to about 60 maybe a tad higher.

[Gary Lewis]

This is my opinion. (Disclaimer). I would add refrigerant to about 60 maybe a tad higher.

I'm with Dane.

[FuzzFace2]

This is my opinion. (Disclaimer). I would add refrigerant to about 60 maybe a tad higher.

I'm with Dane.

Someone else also said the same thing.

When I asked about how much charge it was listed as 2.5 cans and was afraid to add more.

I may need to pick up 1 more can and see if they have the needed adaptor for the high side just so I can see what it is at.

Thanks

Dave ----