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If it were mine is probably attach the lifting 'eyes' bare metal (or galvanized/plated) and make sure I had good ground beneath them.

You could put your favorite silver goo to keep rust at bay.

At least then you'd have convenient ground for diagnostics

Jim - If I remember correctly I only have one "lifting eye" and it is already powder coated. But, I can ground the alternator to the block to ensure the charging system is well grounded. I'll do that and document it in Big Blue's Transformation thread.

As for grounds for diagnostics, those abound given all the grounds I have from fenders to cab, fenders to radiator support, batteries to fenders, and batteries to frame. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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Douglas - You might want to edit your post and take out the address. I don't want my address out on the internet. But that's your call.

Anyway, on the issue you are having, it sounds like one of your battery cables is bad. Put your volt meter's positive cable on the battery-side stud on the starter relay and the negative lead on the engine block. Do you have power? Does it go away when you turn the key to Start?

Well early this a.m. I was out trying some of these ideas. Neg. from battery to motor or to Alt bracket was good, I tried the jumper cable on the neg. nothing changed. The positive battery post to the relay was good. I have not followed the positive cable to the starter, that will be tomorrow morning early. It is hard for me with the bad hip to get under there, A friend of mine is going to crawl under the truck and if he can't make it over I will do it. Before I see it- it seems like the power ( 12 v) doesn't go any further because nothing else works, no horn, no blinkers, no lights no dome light, should I start looking at bulbs If I missed someone on thanking for information and welcoming I'm sorry so I will a group thanks, Thanks everyone.

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Doug.

I've got to ask.

When you replaced the starter relay you put ONLY the starter cable on the far side, and ALL the rest of the wires (excluding the little blue/red push-on trigger wire) to the same lug as the battery positive, correct?

Without constant power to the cab there is no power for the blue/red trigger wire attached to the (S) terminal to do it's job..

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Doug.I've got to ask.When you replaced the starter relay you put ONLY the starter cable on the far side, and ALL the rest of the wires (excluding the little blue/red push-on trigger wire) to the same lug as the battery positive, correct?Without constant power to the cab there is no power for the blue/red trigger wire attached to the (S) terminal to do it's job..
Yes Jim the little red/blue push on went on the S terminal, the starter cable and two small wires with fusible links went on together on the M terminal and positive from the battery went on the B terminal. The strange thing is when I started it up after washing the outside of the truck, I turned on the key and it started right up plus the grinding of the starter still running so I turned the key off and the truck and starter kept running, it seemed like a long time but was only maybe 15 to 30 seconds so I tried the key again and even put it drive thinking just maybe it would stop but it kept running and I am not sure if the key was on or off the motor sounded like a truck with a clutch-when you let the clutch out and you don't give it enough gas and it stalls, that is what the motor did just like something was stealing the power. The first thing I did was feel the positive and neg cables and removed them from the battery and the positive one was warmest and was removed first and when I did it sparked when I removed it, the neg. was okay, but I removed it also and put a meter on it and read right around 5.5 or 5.6 volts. So I put a charger on it and called a few places and I didn't realize how hard it was to get the part store to answer the phone because of the corona virus so I ordered the reply from Amazon.. From that moment nothing has lit up in the truck, no power to fuse box. Is it possible that the starter shorted out and stalled the motor like that. Thank you for your time. Doug/Scooter
Doug Schouten

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Fri, Jul 10, 2020 at 3:33 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

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Jim may not be back quickly to tell you, but you've done what he thought you might have done. The fuse links belong on the battery side of the relay, not the starter side.

Doing it your way you have no power in the cab with which to pull in the relay. Move the fuse links over and I'll bet it works.

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Jim may not be back quickly to tell you, but you've done what he thought you might have done. The fuse links belong on the battery side of the relay, not the starter side.

Doing it your way you have no power in the cab with which to pull in the relay. Move the fuse links over and I'll bet it works.

Ha!

We're right on top of each other, Gary.

Just got a quick lunch break. 😉

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Ha!

We're right on top of each other, Gary.

Just got a quick lunch break. 😉

Great minds thinking alike! :nabble_smiley_grin:

Thank you David, that was a compliment. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Jim - I knew where you were going with the previous post, and his answer proved you were right. But it is raining here so we are sitting on the porch enjoying it and I'm :nabble_anim_working:.

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