Merry Christmas! Documentation Is Ready

[Gary Lewis]

Thank YOU, Erik!

I'm sure that documentation is going to be helpful for many members, and helpful for those of us who now have a place to point someone looking for information on their 4x4 front end.

Bill/85lebaront2 sent me a scan of Weber's 49-page Technical Introduction document today so I OCR'd it and put it on the site. Check it out: Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Weber Technical Introduction.

Thanks, Bill! That has a very good overview of how carbs work. And then it shows how to adjust Weber carbs - in ways that we can't adjust most carbs made in the US. But it is interesting to see how various things affect the AFR. Plus it has info on how to adapt carbs to various engines.

[85lebaront2]

Bill/85lebaront2 sent me a scan of Weber's 49-page Technical Introduction document today so I OCR'd it and put it on the site. Check it out: Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Weber Technical Introduction.

Thanks, Bill! That has a very good overview of how carbs work. And then it shows how to adjust Weber carbs - in ways that we can't adjust most carbs made in the US. But it is interesting to see how various things affect the AFR. Plus it has info on how to adapt carbs to various engines.

I had been looking for a copy of that since Preston got sold. It is worth it's weight in gold easily.

When we had Preston, my business partner bought a 1972 Mercedes 250C, a 2dr coupe that for US sale had a 2.8L 6. In stock form the emission jetting coupled with the 4 speed fluid coupling transmission made it a bit of a slug on the primary barrels of the dual Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs, stand on it and the secondaries would come in. Gas mileage wasn't too great either 12-15 in town, maybe 20 highway.

After getting the Weber manual for the 45DCOE carbs on our drag car (H/MP 1972 Nova, 292 Chevy truck 6 built by Jack Clifford) we ordered the manual based on Jack's recommendation. I took the air jets and emulsion tubes out of the Zeniths and found the primaries had 2 probably around 2 - 3 mm air bleed holes about 1/2 way up a closed end tube. Opened up a drawer full of Holley Weber Pinto carb parts and pulled a pair of emulsion tubes with multiple holes and dropped them in. Reinstalled the original air jets.

Fred (partner) took it for a drive, said it would scoot now/ Pulled the plugs, hmm, nearly black. I did not have any Zenith (about 3/4" tall) air jets, so found the Pinto ones were the same thread, went up 2 sizes, car still ran great, plugs were a dark tan, so I went one more step. Perfect! After a couple of weeks Fred said, this car is getting 17-18 mpg now in town.

[grumpin]

I had been looking for a copy of that since Preston got sold. It is worth it's weight in gold easily.

When we had Preston, my business partner bought a 1972 Mercedes 250C, a 2dr coupe that for US sale had a 2.8L 6. In stock form the emission jetting coupled with the 4 speed fluid coupling transmission made it a bit of a slug on the primary barrels of the dual Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs, stand on it and the secondaries would come in. Gas mileage wasn't too great either 12-15 in town, maybe 20 highway.

After getting the Weber manual for the 45DCOE carbs on our drag car (H/MP 1972 Nova, 292 Chevy truck 6 built by Jack Clifford) we ordered the manual based on Jack's recommendation. I took the air jets and emulsion tubes out of the Zeniths and found the primaries had 2 probably around 2 - 3 mm air bleed holes about 1/2 way up a closed end tube. Opened up a drawer full of Holley Weber Pinto carb parts and pulled a pair of emulsion tubes with multiple holes and dropped them in. Reinstalled the original air jets.

Fred (partner) took it for a drive, said it would scoot now/ Pulled the plugs, hmm, nearly black. I did not have any Zenith (about 3/4" tall) air jets, so found the Pinto ones were the same thread, went up 2 sizes, car still ran great, plugs were a dark tan, so I went one more step. Perfect! After a couple of weeks Fred said, this car is getting 17-18 mpg now in town.

Thanks for sharing the documentation Bill!

[Gary Lewis]

I had been looking for a copy of that since Preston got sold. It is worth it's weight in gold easily.

When we had Preston, my business partner bought a 1972 Mercedes 250C, a 2dr coupe that for US sale had a 2.8L 6. In stock form the emission jetting coupled with the 4 speed fluid coupling transmission made it a bit of a slug on the primary barrels of the dual Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs, stand on it and the secondaries would come in. Gas mileage wasn't too great either 12-15 in town, maybe 20 highway.

After getting the Weber manual for the 45DCOE carbs on our drag car (H/MP 1972 Nova, 292 Chevy truck 6 built by Jack Clifford) we ordered the manual based on Jack's recommendation. I took the air jets and emulsion tubes out of the Zeniths and found the primaries had 2 probably around 2 - 3 mm air bleed holes about 1/2 way up a closed end tube. Opened up a drawer full of Holley Weber Pinto carb parts and pulled a pair of emulsion tubes with multiple holes and dropped them in. Reinstalled the original air jets.

Fred (partner) took it for a drive, said it would scoot now/ Pulled the plugs, hmm, nearly black. I did not have any Zenith (about 3/4" tall) air jets, so found the Pinto ones were the same thread, went up 2 sizes, car still ran great, plugs were a dark tan, so I went one more step. Perfect! After a couple of weeks Fred said, this car is getting 17-18 mpg now in town.

Good story, Bill. But I'd never thought you could intermix parts like that. But there's common heritage there that saved the day.

[BigBrother-84]

I had been looking for a copy of that since Preston got sold. It is worth it's weight in gold easily.

When we had Preston, my business partner bought a 1972 Mercedes 250C, a 2dr coupe that for US sale had a 2.8L 6. In stock form the emission jetting coupled with the 4 speed fluid coupling transmission made it a bit of a slug on the primary barrels of the dual Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs, stand on it and the secondaries would come in. Gas mileage wasn't too great either 12-15 in town, maybe 20 highway.

After getting the Weber manual for the 45DCOE carbs on our drag car (H/MP 1972 Nova, 292 Chevy truck 6 built by Jack Clifford) we ordered the manual based on Jack's recommendation. I took the air jets and emulsion tubes out of the Zeniths and found the primaries had 2 probably around 2 - 3 mm air bleed holes about 1/2 way up a closed end tube. Opened up a drawer full of Holley Weber Pinto carb parts and pulled a pair of emulsion tubes with multiple holes and dropped them in. Reinstalled the original air jets.

Fred (partner) took it for a drive, said it would scoot now/ Pulled the plugs, hmm, nearly black. I did not have any Zenith (about 3/4" tall) air jets, so found the Pinto ones were the same thread, went up 2 sizes, car still ran great, plugs were a dark tan, so I went one more step. Perfect! After a couple of weeks Fred said, this car is getting 17-18 mpg now in town.

Thanks Bill!

Another Brick In The Wall.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks for sharing the documentation Bill!

You are quite welcome.

[Gary Lewis]

You are quite welcome.

After explaining to someone recently how the Ford part numbering system works I realized that we don't really have a good explanation thereof. So I attempted to create one today. You'll find it at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers, and I'd appreciate everyone's input on several things, like:

• Location: Is there a better, more logical, place to put it?

• Understandable: Does it make sense to you?

• Upgrades: What did I forget? What else should be included?

Thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

After explaining to someone recently how the Ford part numbering system works I realized that we don't really have a good explanation thereof. So I attempted to create one today. You'll find it at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers, and I'd appreciate everyone's input on several things, like:

• Location: Is there a better, more logical, place to put it?

• Understandable: Does it make sense to you?

• Upgrades: What did I forget? What else should be included?

Thanks!

Gary,

Front and center seems best.

At least everyone will see it even if they don't read it (until they get confused)

I think you could expound a little more about engineering revisions. A, B, C, D, AA, AB, AC etc..

How there might be 3-4 iterations of say, an alternator bracket with the first year of a new engine in the Mercury division, but they are each unique to different models of car, or are even introduced years later.

Also, that on an original part (opposed to a replacement part) the fourth digit designates what system that part belongs to. Drive line, suspension, heating/cooling, whatever.

i.e. D9TE on a head or engine block is obviously an engine part, but some little bracket or whatever might not be obvious.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

Front and center seems best.

At least everyone will see it even if they don't read it (until they get confused)

I think you could expound a little more about engineering revisions. A, B, C, D, AA, AB, AC etc..

How there might be 3-4 iterations of say, an alternator bracket with the first year of a new engine in the Mercury division, but they are each unique to different models of car, or are even introduced years later.

Also, that on an original part (opposed to a replacement part) the fourth digit designates what system that part belongs to. Drive line, suspension, heating/cooling, whatever.

i.e. D9TE on a head or engine block is obviously an engine part, but some little bracket or whatever might not be obvious.

Jim - Thanks for the response and apologies for my belated response.

However, you pointed out things I didn't know about the numbering system, which caused me to read more, which pointed out more things I didn't know as well as new things to read, which... And I've been chasing rabbits ever since.

Let me give an example. Keith/FORDification has an extensive part number tutorial on his website. And it is similar to the one found on the Classic Mustangs site. But both of those are quite lengthy and difficult to read, or at least are for me as I've had to re-read parts of them several times and still walk away saying "I've got it, I've got it, I ain't got it."

So what I'm thinking we need on this site is an easy to read overview that is specific to the Bullnose trucks, but with links to some of the other pages that give a much more in-depth explanation.

Thoughts? Please?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Thanks for the response and apologies for my belated response.

However, you pointed out things I didn't know about the numbering system, which caused me to read more, which pointed out more things I didn't know as well as new things to read, which... And I've been chasing rabbits ever since.

Let me give an example. Keith/FORDification has an extensive part number tutorial on his website. And it is similar to the one found on the Classic Mustangs site. But both of those are quite lengthy and difficult to read, or at least are for me as I've had to re-read parts of them several times and still walk away saying "I've got it, I've got it, I ain't got it."

So what I'm thinking we need on this site is an easy to read overview that is specific to the Bullnose trucks, but with links to some of the other pages that give a much more in-depth explanation.

Thoughts? Please?

Gary, I appreciate your detailed reply.

I wanted to stress that "Just because a part was originally made for a Falcon doesn't mean the part came off of a Falcon."

Because we saw this exact thing not long ago here on the forum.

I do think including the bit about which engineering dept might not help many except to alleviate their confusion about 'what do all these letters/numbers on my part mean?'

I think saying Z is a Ford service part is kind of redundant in that any part you order is going to have a Z suffix.

KIS all you want. Perhaps tagging these two links on is best?

Today I learned that basic numbers that are odd are left hand and even numbers are right. 🤯