Old School Cool

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got a few extra parts incoming- glovebox, new pads for the brake pedal and emergency brake, 4x4 emblem just because, and some new clips for windshield trim. Just some little things I wanted to fix. I also have my eye on a set of sun visors on eBay that have the extra anchor points so I’ll probably pull the trigger on them. They’re vinyl and they match my interior.

I always have some sort of question and here are a couple that have been going through my head.

1) I have a BW1356 from a 95 f150. 150k miles on it. Looks to be in really good condition and the previous owner (same person as the original owner of my Bullnose) was very good about taking care of his trucks. I’d bet that it’s only been in 4WD a handful of times. I’d like to put it in my truck. I know I’ll need a tailhousing that has a provision for the speedo so I’ll have to source one. My big question is this-

Will I need to have the driveshafts changed? Is it enough of a length difference between a NP208 and a BW1356 to have to modify them?

I’m gonna measure everything when I get the time but I figured someone on here has done that swap before and would have some pointers

2) My second question. I have holes in my floor pans and have good pieces to fill them with. Now I don’t have a Mig or Tig welder but I do have a pretty hefty stick welder and a gas welder/torch. I’m not in a position to buy a mig, the arc welder would not do well at all on that thin of metal, so that leaves me with oxy/acetylene

I was hoping to get a few pointers or tips on using the gas setup to patch the floor. I’ve never welded with oxy/acetylene but I’m a quick learner and I also have friends/family that can help. Would anyone recommend butt or lap welds? Tack or filler? Hammer weld? I’m a complete newbie to it. I know it’s the “old” way of doing it but I think it’s kinda cool and thats the tool I have available.

It’s just the floor so no one is gonna see the welds. I’m not worried about pretty, just functional. If I get really good and confident then I’ll tackle the cab corners, bed corners, and the edges of a couple of fenders. That’s way on down the road though and I’ll have plenty of practice before I try to do the actual body panels.

I wouldn't weld with oxy/acetylene, I would braze the patches in.

Not as much heat.

Brass is just as strong as welding and won't corrode (IF the flux is rinsed off)

This is how ALL body repairs were made before MIG's became common in the '80's

[Jacob84]

I wouldn't weld with oxy/acetylene, I would braze the patches in.

Not as much heat.

Brass is just as strong as welding and won't corrode (IF the flux is rinsed off)

This is how ALL body repairs were made before MIG's became common in the '80's

I knew I was forgetting something Jim. I’ve been researching body panel repair for a little while now and I came across brazing. I’ll look into it more!

[Gary Lewis]

Got a few extra parts incoming- glovebox, new pads for the brake pedal and emergency brake, 4x4 emblem just because, and some new clips for windshield trim. Just some little things I wanted to fix. I also have my eye on a set of sun visors on eBay that have the extra anchor points so I’ll probably pull the trigger on them. They’re vinyl and they match my interior.

I always have some sort of question and here are a couple that have been going through my head.

1) I have a BW1356 from a 95 f150. 150k miles on it. Looks to be in really good condition and the previous owner (same person as the original owner of my Bullnose) was very good about taking care of his trucks. I’d bet that it’s only been in 4WD a handful of times. I’d like to put it in my truck. I know I’ll need a tailhousing that has a provision for the speedo so I’ll have to source one. My big question is this-

Will I need to have the driveshafts changed? Is it enough of a length difference between a NP208 and a BW1356 to have to modify them?

I’m gonna measure everything when I get the time but I figured someone on here has done that swap before and would have some pointers

2) My second question. I have holes in my floor pans and have good pieces to fill them with. Now I don’t have a Mig or Tig welder but I do have a pretty hefty stick welder and a gas welder/torch. I’m not in a position to buy a mig, the arc welder would not do well at all on that thin of metal, so that leaves me with oxy/acetylene

I was hoping to get a few pointers or tips on using the gas setup to patch the floor. I’ve never welded with oxy/acetylene but I’m a quick learner and I also have friends/family that can help. Would anyone recommend butt or lap welds? Tack or filler? Hammer weld? I’m a complete newbie to it. I know it’s the “old” way of doing it but I think it’s kinda cool and thats the tool I have available.

It’s just the floor so no one is gonna see the welds. I’m not worried about pretty, just functional. If I get really good and confident then I’ll tackle the cab corners, bed corners, and the edges of a couple of fenders. That’s way on down the road though and I’ll have plenty of practice before I try to do the actual body panels.

On the driveshafts, I don't think there's enough difference between the NP208 and the BW1356 to cause a problem. But I have those two t-cases w/in 10' of each other so will measure them tomorrow and we'll know. And will I'm at it I'll measure the BW1345 on Big Blue.

But, your 1356 doesn't have the hole for the speedo? Guess I didn't know they came that way.

[Jacob84]

On the driveshafts, I don't think there's enough difference between the NP208 and the BW1356 to cause a problem. But I have those two t-cases w/in 10' of each other so will measure them tomorrow and we'll know. And will I'm at it I'll measure the BW1345 on Big Blue.

But, your 1356 doesn't have the hole for the speedo? Guess I didn't know they came that way.

I’d really appreciate that Gary. On the speedo hole- So I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the case should have the provision for the speedo, it would just be plugged. I was surprised to not even see a plug. I’ll take some pics of it. If I was a bettin man I’d say that Ford did away with the speedo hole in the later 90s trucks. At that point vehicle speed was determined from the speed sensor in the rear end and there was no reason for the hole. Maybe it was cheaper that way once they ran out of tailhousings with the provision?

[grumpin]

I’d really appreciate that Gary. On the speedo hole- So I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the case should have the provision for the speedo, it would just be plugged. I was surprised to not even see a plug. I’ll take some pics of it. If I was a bettin man I’d say that Ford did away with the speedo hole in the later 90s trucks. At that point vehicle speed was determined from the speed sensor in the rear end and there was no reason for the hole. Maybe it was cheaper that way once they ran out of tailhousings with the provision?

I thought by 95 the speedo sensor was in the rear differential.

[Jacob84]

I thought by 95 the speedo sensor was in the rear differential.

Dane, you’re right. The speedo on the 95 is run off of the rearend tone ring and sensor. Well, that’s how it determines speed

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dane, you’re right. The speedo on the 95 is run off of the rearend tone ring and sensor. Well, that’s how it determines speed

Bill gave a little lesson in how the PSOM functions the other day in Big Blue's thread.

It might be informative.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill gave a little lesson in how the PSOM functions the other day in Big Blue's thread.

It might be informative.

Yep. Start reading here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p83258.html

[Gary Lewis]

I’d really appreciate that Gary. On the speedo hole- So I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the case should have the provision for the speedo, it would just be plugged. I was surprised to not even see a plug. I’ll take some pics of it. If I was a bettin man I’d say that Ford did away with the speedo hole in the later 90s trucks. At that point vehicle speed was determined from the speed sensor in the rear end and there was no reason for the hole. Maybe it was cheaper that way once they ran out of tailhousings with the provision?

Not sure the 1356 will work. The measurements from the front flange to the point where the u-joint cap hits the output flange are:

• NP208: 16 3/4"

• BW1345: 16 7/8"

• BW1356: 18"

But you should measure your 1356 to see if you agree on that measurement. If so, you may find that your driveshaft won't fit. And in that case it may be less expensive to find another t-case than to have your shaft cut down, find the right rear housing, and have the t-case worked on to put the housing on.

[Jacob84]

Not sure the 1356 will work. The measurements from the front flange to the point where the u-joint cap hits the output flange are:

• NP208: 16 3/4"

• BW1345: 16 7/8"

• BW1356: 18"

But you should measure your 1356 to see if you agree on that measurement. If so, you may find that your driveshaft won't fit. And in that case it may be less expensive to find another t-case than to have your shaft cut down, find the right rear housing, and have the t-case worked on to put the housing on.

Well that’s a bummer. We’re supposed to have a ton of rain soon but if I can get the chance I’ll crawl under the truck and measure the 208 and get the 1356 measured also. I trust your measurements but just to confirm I’ll check it out. I appreciate it!