Jacob84 Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 Thanks for posting the review well done Dave ---- Thanks all for the kind words! I’ll keep y’all updated on the headlights and upload some more pics soon for y’all. But unfortunately I have another issue that I need some advice on. I’m starting to understand why Gary and those like him like to use Ford factory parts. Namely when it comes to fuel injection and the like. I’ve been having a lot of trouble lately with my ignition system and my fuel injection, both being aftermarket. For instance, the computer that controls my ignition has gone out twice. I can’t have that, this is my daily driver. The fuel injection, no matter how much I mess with it, drowns the motor in fuel under WOT. I can’t have that either as it is so rich it’s causing the motor to knock. I’m not exactly looking for tech advice on what I have in the truck right now (it would be difficult to try and explain the why/how/what of it all but I’m open to it) but rather I’m trying to formulate a plan B if I cannot get these issues sorted soon. My plan B would consist of converting to a factory 1995 or thereabouts fuel injection system with the factory controlled timing. I have the majority of what I need to get it done, I have the entire donor truck sitting next to the shop and parts inside the shop. A couple things I do need to sort out 1) the engine harness had been chewed up by squirrels so I need a new one of those. 2) I need to make sure my cam will play nice with the factory efi. 3) I need to figure out if I need a speed sensor although I’m currently running a C6 trans. 4) everything else, lol. I’m really just wanting this truck to be reliable and run right. Do I like being able to control every aspect of the motor from the front seat and being able to do performance upgrades to my motor with no issue? Of course, but I’d rather have a mild motor that runs great and reliable all the time than a high performance motor that runs great and reliable 25% of the time. I’d really like to hear from some of y’all that have done factory/factory-ish efi conversions or have good experience with Ford’s 90s EEC systems and what they require to function correctly. Again, this is just a plan B but I want to be ready if I have do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Share Posted December 14, 2020 Thanks all for the kind words! I’ll keep y’all updated on the headlights and upload some more pics soon for y’all. But unfortunately I have another issue that I need some advice on. I’m starting to understand why Gary and those like him like to use Ford factory parts. Namely when it comes to fuel injection and the like. I’ve been having a lot of trouble lately with my ignition system and my fuel injection, both being aftermarket. For instance, the computer that controls my ignition has gone out twice. I can’t have that, this is my daily driver. The fuel injection, no matter how much I mess with it, drowns the motor in fuel under WOT. I can’t have that either as it is so rich it’s causing the motor to knock. I’m not exactly looking for tech advice on what I have in the truck right now (it would be difficult to try and explain the why/how/what of it all but I’m open to it) but rather I’m trying to formulate a plan B if I cannot get these issues sorted soon. My plan B would consist of converting to a factory 1995 or thereabouts fuel injection system with the factory controlled timing. I have the majority of what I need to get it done, I have the entire donor truck sitting next to the shop and parts inside the shop. A couple things I do need to sort out 1) the engine harness had been chewed up by squirrels so I need a new one of those. 2) I need to make sure my cam will play nice with the factory efi. 3) I need to figure out if I need a speed sensor although I’m currently running a C6 trans. 4) everything else, lol. I’m really just wanting this truck to be reliable and run right. Do I like being able to control every aspect of the motor from the front seat and being able to do performance upgrades to my motor with no issue? Of course, but I’d rather have a mild motor that runs great and reliable all the time than a high performance motor that runs great and reliable 25% of the time. I’d really like to hear from some of y’all that have done factory/factory-ish efi conversions or have good experience with Ford’s 90s EEC systems and what they require to function correctly. Again, this is just a plan B but I want to be ready if I have do it. Hey guys, I was able to put some new wheel bearings in the rear. More importantly I was able to put in my new third member as well. The third member is nodular iron, has extra ribbing and material around the rear pinion support, Yukon coated gears, a beefed up and more aggressive clutch style limited slip, Daytona front pinion support, and more I’m probably forgetting. It’s a pretty stout unit, good to 650 horse according to the company I got it from. Now that’s way overkill for me but it was cheaper than a stock unit when I bought it. A win win for me. And I’ll never have to touch the rearend no matter what motor I put in front of it. Next time I go through the 351w I got I’ll build a 393 with gobs of torque and mid range power. Not that I’ll touch that 650 horse limit but you never know what might change in the future and I like things a little overbuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hey guys, I was able to put some new wheel bearings in the rear. More importantly I was able to put in my new third member as well. The third member is nodular iron, has extra ribbing and material around the rear pinion support, Yukon coated gears, a beefed up and more aggressive clutch style limited slip, Daytona front pinion support, and more I’m probably forgetting. It’s a pretty stout unit, good to 650 horse according to the company I got it from. Now that’s way overkill for me but it was cheaper than a stock unit when I bought it. A win win for me. And I’ll never have to touch the rearend no matter what motor I put in front of it. Next time I go through the 351w I got I’ll build a 393 with gobs of torque and mid range power. Not that I’ll touch that 650 horse limit but you never know what might change in the future and I like things a little overbuilt That's NICE!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hey guys, I was able to put some new wheel bearings in the rear. More importantly I was able to put in my new third member as well. The third member is nodular iron, has extra ribbing and material around the rear pinion support, Yukon coated gears, a beefed up and more aggressive clutch style limited slip, Daytona front pinion support, and more I’m probably forgetting. It’s a pretty stout unit, good to 650 horse according to the company I got it from. Now that’s way overkill for me but it was cheaper than a stock unit when I bought it. A win win for me. And I’ll never have to touch the rearend no matter what motor I put in front of it. Next time I go through the 351w I got I’ll build a 393 with gobs of torque and mid range power. Not that I’ll touch that 650 horse limit but you never know what might change in the future and I like things a little overbuilt Here are some things I want to get accomplished soon. This can serve as a bit of a checklist for me. -fix holes in floors and rockers using the good metal from the parts truck -find a new seat since mine is quite literally falling to pieces -install carpet and sound deadening -install 95 f150 underhood ac box and refresh the system so it’ll be ready for summer -paint the turbine wheels -come up with a budget friendly bed cover (have a good idea on this) -also fix up my grandpa’s camper shell. He passed away when I was young but the one he bought for his 69 F100 (which he drove from new till the day he passed away, we still have thankfully) fits my truck perfectly. I’ll use it from time to time. -fix the wobbly column shifter and put in the correct shifter levers -get the radio working at some point -detail/degrease everything under the hood -come up with a behind the seat storage system (I really like the canvas style systems that have storage for a rifle and other pouches for whatever else you might need). I keep a fire extinguisher behind the seat and a first aid kit so I want to find a way to secure them as well -install a trans cooler from the 95 f150, much stouter unit than what I’ve got right now -get the anchored sun visors in so I can get those floppy ones out -figure out if my extra BW1356 will be a direct bolt in other than the tail shaft so I might install that. If not I’ll sell it -sell all the other parts I’ve got from the parts truck and scrap the rest. E4OD, cruise control unit maybe, upper and lower efi manifolds, trans crossmember, rear end 8.8 (needs a total rebuild but has a provision for the vss), power distribution box unless I decide to keep it, one door, blah blah blah. There’s a lot. -eventually I’d like to find some sort of overdrive unit but I can’t find anything I really like. But that’s way on down the road, I’m not dropping money on that for awhile. I just want to fix the things that would make me more comfortable and save me money in the long run. Thankfully, I have almost everything I need that I’ve already mentioned in my list. I love my truck but it’s almost too important to me and I’m constantly looking at what I can do to make it better. But as of now I don’t plan on any really big upgrades but I’m gonna try and hold myself back and only do whats necessary and makes good sense. The third member needed to be replaced so I jumped on that and did well I think but after this it’ll be pretty standard stuff. Trying to make some better decisions as I go forward with it and not go crazy with the “upgrade” bug. And like I said, I have 90% of what I need in parts just laying around just need the time and maybe a little help. There are more important things I need to worry about than all the new fancy upgrades. Y’all can help me with that if you’re so inclined:nabble_smiley_wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 That's NICE!! Thank ya thank ya:nabble_smiley_cool: I’m almost done with the break in period and will change the fluid soon, hopefully all is well. No weird noises to report either. I can tell a huge difference in the “on road manners”, especially in wet weather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Here are some things I want to get accomplished soon. This can serve as a bit of a checklist for me. -fix holes in floors and rockers using the good metal from the parts truck -find a new seat since mine is quite literally falling to pieces -install carpet and sound deadening -install 95 f150 underhood ac box and refresh the system so it’ll be ready for summer -paint the turbine wheels -come up with a budget friendly bed cover (have a good idea on this) -also fix up my grandpa’s camper shell. He passed away when I was young but the one he bought for his 69 F100 (which he drove from new till the day he passed away, we still have thankfully) fits my truck perfectly. I’ll use it from time to time. -fix the wobbly column shifter and put in the correct shifter levers -get the radio working at some point -detail/degrease everything under the hood -come up with a behind the seat storage system (I really like the canvas style systems that have storage for a rifle and other pouches for whatever else you might need). I keep a fire extinguisher behind the seat and a first aid kit so I want to find a way to secure them as well -install a trans cooler from the 95 f150, much stouter unit than what I’ve got right now -get the anchored sun visors in so I can get those floppy ones out -figure out if my extra BW1356 will be a direct bolt in other than the tail shaft so I might install that. If not I’ll sell it -sell all the other parts I’ve got from the parts truck and scrap the rest. E4OD, cruise control unit maybe, upper and lower efi manifolds, trans crossmember, rear end 8.8 (needs a total rebuild but has a provision for the vss), power distribution box unless I decide to keep it, one door, blah blah blah. There’s a lot. -eventually I’d like to find some sort of overdrive unit but I can’t find anything I really like. But that’s way on down the road, I’m not dropping money on that for awhile. I just want to fix the things that would make me more comfortable and save me money in the long run. Thankfully, I have almost everything I need that I’ve already mentioned in my list. I love my truck but it’s almost too important to me and I’m constantly looking at what I can do to make it better. But as of now I don’t plan on any really big upgrades but I’m gonna try and hold myself back and only do whats necessary and makes good sense. The third member needed to be replaced so I jumped on that and did well I think but after this it’ll be pretty standard stuff. Trying to make some better decisions as I go forward with it and not go crazy with the “upgrade” bug. And like I said, I have 90% of what I need in parts just laying around just need the time and maybe a little help. There are more important things I need to worry about than all the new fancy upgrades. Y’all can help me with that if you’re so inclined:nabble_smiley_wink: That's quite a list, but by keeping a list you can work through it and see progress. And, it is important to be able to see results so you can feel good about your progress. Keep on truckin' and you'll get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 That's quite a list, but by keeping a list you can work through it and see progress. And, it is important to be able to see results so you can feel good about your progress. Keep on truckin' and you'll get there. Yes sir! One step at a time:nabble_smiley_happy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hey guys, I was able to put some new wheel bearings in the rear. More importantly I was able to put in my new third member as well. The third member is nodular iron, has extra ribbing and material around the rear pinion support, Yukon coated gears, a beefed up and more aggressive clutch style limited slip, Daytona front pinion support, and more I’m probably forgetting. It’s a pretty stout unit, good to 650 horse according to the company I got it from. Now that’s way overkill for me but it was cheaper than a stock unit when I bought it. A win win for me. And I’ll never have to touch the rearend no matter what motor I put in front of it. Next time I go through the 351w I got I’ll build a 393 with gobs of torque and mid range power. Not that I’ll touch that 650 horse limit but you never know what might change in the future and I like things a little overbuilt Life is easier when the weak link in your drivetrain is a $16 U-joint rather than a ring and pinion! Be careful in the snow with a tight clutch in that rear. It can be fun, but it can get hairy if you're not expecting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hey guys, I was able to put some new wheel bearings in the rear. More importantly I was able to put in my new third member as well. The third member is nodular iron, has extra ribbing and material around the rear pinion support, Yukon coated gears, a beefed up and more aggressive clutch style limited slip, Daytona front pinion support, and more I’m probably forgetting. It’s a pretty stout unit, good to 650 horse according to the company I got it from. Now that’s way overkill for me but it was cheaper than a stock unit when I bought it. A win win for me. And I’ll never have to touch the rearend no matter what motor I put in front of it. Next time I go through the 351w I got I’ll build a 393 with gobs of torque and mid range power. Not that I’ll touch that 650 horse limit but you never know what might change in the future and I like things a little overbuilt It certainly looks stout! What sort of bed cover are you looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob84 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 It certainly looks stout! What sort of bed cover are you looking for? Jim- Most definitely. We don’t get snow here very often but it does happen. We’re on a sort of dividing line, just north of us got a ton of snow a couple days ago. We got cold rain. We usually end up with sleet and freezing rain when a storm system moves through. That’s ten times worse IMO. Kinda hard to drive on ice and it usually takes a ton of limbs out and knocks down power lines. People also lose their minds and forget how to drive their cars in inclement weather where I’m at. Even in the rain. One of the big problems I had with the last limited slip was that it was worn out but every once in a while it would catch. I’d pull out onto a wet highway and get some one wheel peel. I’d feather the throttle a bit, counter steer and I’d be fine. Until the clutches would bite a little and upset the rear of the truck and the differential wouldn’t decide which wheel it was gonna send power to so the rear of the truck would dance back and forth. Pretty scary when you’ve got a big rig coming over the hill all the sudden. Much pucker factor. Rob- Thank you! it sure does look the part, and that’s 90% of what matters right? Looking cool and tough? Lol I’ve kinda thrown a couple ideas around for the bed cover. A hard bed cover is most ideal for security, looks, you can put stuff on it etc. But I really need something I can remove or tuck away quickly. The two ideas I had were either a roll up cover (quick, simple, cheap) or something that had slats I could slide in or out and tuck them behind my toolbox. The toolbox shouldn’t get in the way, it sits just at or below the top of the bed The main reason is to keep things a little more protected and dry. I know most stuff isn’t 100% waterproof but if it comes a flood like Noah and the Ark I’d like things not soaking wet. It also adds some concealment to what you’ve got in your bed. I haven’t had anything stolen out of my bed yet but there’s always a first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts