Old School Cool

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, was that ZF rebuild something you did or pay to have someone do it? Rebuilding a trans sounds fun to me (my family tells me I'm not normal). I'd love to pick up a new skill as well.

He hired it done.

In order to properly shim the end float you need a windowed case end to measure axial play.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, was that ZF rebuild something you did or pay to have someone do it? Rebuilding a trans sounds fun to me (my family tells me I'm not normal). I'd love to pick up a new skill as well.

I paid a professional driveline guy to rebuild it. He had the use of the correct tools at the shop where he works, and I'm told that the ZF requires some special tools. In fact, his friend that's rebuilt a number of transfer cases and differentials for me said he won't do ZF's as they take tools he doesn't have.

[Jacob84]

I paid a professional driveline guy to rebuild it. He had the use of the correct tools at the shop where he works, and I'm told that the ZF requires some special tools. In fact, his friend that's rebuilt a number of transfer cases and differentials for me said he won't do ZF's as they take tools he doesn't have.

Well I finally got fed up with my turbine/hurricane wheels. I like them a lot and they are the wheels the original wheels the owner bought for the truck (the truck had been in his family from new until the day I got it). I’m keeping the wheels on the truck because that’s how his family remembers the truck in it’s glory days.

But something has to be done about them. I know I need some brake pads that don’t produce a lot of dust but even with those they are pain to keep clean. They are bare aluminum and they absorb everything. Polishing them is an absolute pain because of all of the little nooks and pockets they have. So I’m going to paint them.

The plan is to clean them up real good, etch them, then paint a few coats of color then put some sort of clear coat over them so protect them. The colors I want to use are argent silver (Ford) and black. The “spokes” of the wheel will be argent and the “dishes/rough cast” parts will be black. It’ll tie in nice with the existing trim and it’ll also be a factory Ford color which will be a cool talking point. I’ll also get new center caps and lug nuts. I will be putting the original argent grille back on the truck too so that’ll also tie in with the wheels.

The wheels have had a rough life and they hail from 1976 so they got some age and I’m not expecting perfection. I use my truck so it’s okay if things are a little rough around the edges.

Like any project I have and what I know a lot of y’all have noticed with me, things are subject to change and I may go a completely different route. But right now this is the plan. If anyone has any thoughts on it let me know. I’m happy for opinions and advice.

The truck has also gone through some significant changes which I will also throw in here so things will be a little jumbled but thats okay, that’s how projects go

 

[Jacob84]

Well I finally got fed up with my turbine/hurricane wheels. I like them a lot and they are the wheels the original wheels the owner bought for the truck (the truck had been in his family from new until the day I got it). I’m keeping the wheels on the truck because that’s how his family remembers the truck in it’s glory days.

But something has to be done about them. I know I need some brake pads that don’t produce a lot of dust but even with those they are pain to keep clean. They are bare aluminum and they absorb everything. Polishing them is an absolute pain because of all of the little nooks and pockets they have. So I’m going to paint them.

The plan is to clean them up real good, etch them, then paint a few coats of color then put some sort of clear coat over them so protect them. The colors I want to use are argent silver (Ford) and black. The “spokes” of the wheel will be argent and the “dishes/rough cast” parts will be black. It’ll tie in nice with the existing trim and it’ll also be a factory Ford color which will be a cool talking point. I’ll also get new center caps and lug nuts. I will be putting the original argent grille back on the truck too so that’ll also tie in with the wheels.

The wheels have had a rough life and they hail from 1976 so they got some age and I’m not expecting perfection. I use my truck so it’s okay if things are a little rough around the edges.

Like any project I have and what I know a lot of y’all have noticed with me, things are subject to change and I may go a completely different route. But right now this is the plan. If anyone has any thoughts on it let me know. I’m happy for opinions and advice.

The truck has also gone through some significant changes which I will also throw in here so things will be a little jumbled but thats okay, that’s how projects go

Here is a proud picture for me. A lifted TTB without extreme -/+ camber. Threw some new -1.5 degree bushings in and it is nearly perfect.

Note to anyone aligning these TTBs, this is what I went through when I put the new bushings in. It's kinda hard to explain without looking at it but the toe was very negative. The way the Twin Traction Beam suspension cycles the camber is consistently dynamic which is good and bad. So, with very negative toe, the front of the wheels naturally want to meet each other like the tip of a triangle. The tires act as a wedge and since the the surface tension of the tires is high the only place for that force to go is back into the suspension. As it does that it effectively raises the the suspension up through the axle pivots because as the tires want to come close together the it must rotate the beams downward. It's a lot of tension. As the suspension forces the frame up it changes the camber angle just like picking the truck up on a lift. I reset the toe, now the tires aren't acting like wedges but tracking straight, not putting the suspension under tension. The same is true with very positive toe but it will try to pull the truck down and not push it up.

[Gary Lewis]

Here is a proud picture for me. A lifted TTB without extreme -/+ camber. Threw some new -1.5 degree bushings in and it is nearly perfect.

Note to anyone aligning these TTBs, this is what I went through when I put the new bushings in. It's kinda hard to explain without looking at it but the toe was very negative. The way the Twin Traction Beam suspension cycles the camber is consistently dynamic which is good and bad. So, with very negative toe, the front of the wheels naturally want to meet each other like the tip of a triangle. The tires act as a wedge and since the the surface tension of the tires is high the only place for that force to go is back into the suspension. As it does that it effectively raises the the suspension up through the axle pivots because as the tires want to come close together the it must rotate the beams downward. It's a lot of tension. As the suspension forces the frame up it changes the camber angle just like picking the truck up on a lift. I reset the toe, now the tires aren't acting like wedges but tracking straight, not putting the suspension under tension. The same is true with very positive toe but it will try to pull the truck down and not push it up.

Jacob - Does your truck set out so the wheels are exposed to UV light? If so I'm not sure what to tell you because the clear coatings that I'm familiar with are broken down by UV. For instance, the clear on my powder coated aluminum wheels are showing signs of breaking down from the time they've set out. And I would have thought that the clear powder would be better than clear paint.

But, I like your plans. It is just that I'm not sure how long the clear will last.

As for the front end, it is good to know it can be done. Can you tell us more about what lift you used and what else you did to align it?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jacob - Does your truck set out so the wheels are exposed to UV light? If so I'm not sure what to tell you because the clear coatings that I'm familiar with are broken down by UV. For instance, the clear on my powder coated aluminum wheels are showing signs of breaking down from the time they've set out. And I would have thought that the clear powder would be better than clear paint.

But, I like your plans. It is just that I'm not sure how long the clear will last.

As for the front end, it is good to know it can be done. Can you tell us more about what lift you used and what else you did to align it?

I too think powder would be better than paint.

Not sure how much that would cost, but Rob (Sac) has 4 five lug steelies looking for a home.

Since you'd have to dismount the tires anyhow, you could swap them on and then there wouldn't be so much time pressure.

My tire guy charges $75 for four, new stems, balanced and mounted.

[Sac79]

As for the front end, it is good to know it can be done. Can you tell us more about what lift you used and what else you did to align it?

Yes please, I would also like to know.

[Jacob84]

As for the front end, it is good to know it can be done. Can you tell us more about what lift you used and what else you did to align it?

Yes please, I would also like to know.

Gary- Yes, they truck sits outside and is not garage kept. That’s unfortunate, I figured the clear coat would stand up better to the elements. Bummer. Do you think if I simply painted them, no clearcoat it would last a good while? I know it’ll get chipped and will need to be touched up but I don’t want to repaint the whole wheel once a year.

Jim- fortunately I have a couple sets of wheels I can use. I’ve got some chrome steels from a 95 and also some steelies from a 69 f100 (and the truck to go with it). Here’s the problem with me and steel wheels...I absolutely love them. This look here is just perfect to me.

Once I put them on I would never take them off. And that’s an option, I’ve thought really hard about doing that.

Rob and Gary- So I have a 2.5 inch lift from Rough Country. It came with radius arm drop brackets, axle pivot drop brackets, taller coil springs, leaf springs, and shocks. If you’re gonna lift the truck more than a 1.5 inch leveling kit you need a lift system with drop brackets and such otherwise you’ll never be able to get it aligned properly. Those drop brackets are what bring the entire suspension down to a workable geometry.

The most aggravating part about lifting the TTB suspension is the camber. The taller the spring or space you put in the front the more positive camber you will have because it forces the beams to pivot downwards tipping the top of the tire out. Hard to visualize? Put the truck on a lift or jack it up by the frame and watch the tires, you’ll see what I mean. Fortunately there are bushings to fix this. The top ball joint fits into a bushing where camber can be changed by using different bushings, also caster with the correct type of bushing. There are completely “adjustable” bushings that are recommended but know that if you have to beat it in to place you will have to beat it out and they will break. They are made of cheap metal. I got solid bushings so I could beat them in and out, it’s frustrating.

After lifting or leveling a TTB get the toe as close as you can. I use the string method. Drive the truck around the block then look at the tires and see what the camber looks like. Take it to an alignment shop and have them put it on the rack and give you a print out of how much the rack says it’s out of spec. You can then order the correct bushings or they can do it but it’s not cheap, at least not in my case. Remember this before ordering bushings, look at your existing bushings. On top there will be numbers telling you what degree bushing it is camber and caster. Mine was a 0 degree camber and caster from the factory. If the camber is out 2 degrees positive but you have 1 degree positive bushings already installed then you need a negative 1 degree bushing not a negative 2 degree. Make sense? That’s just a rough example.

I know people say toe doesn’t effect camber but extreme toe does effect it on these trucks if the stars align. I honestly just ball parked what bushings I needed. I knew it was between 1 or 2 degrees positive so I ordered 1.5 degree negative bushings knowing that it probably wouldn’t be perfect. But I got pretty lucky.

All that being said I’m no alignment expert. I know how to use an alignment rack, I know the terms, I’ve had some hands on experience but I’m no mechanic. I also still have to get my caster figured out. It pulls to the right pretty good and have minimal steering return. I wrote this up quick so if y’all see a mistake or have more questions just let me know!👍🏻

[Gary Lewis]

Gary- Yes, they truck sits outside and is not garage kept. That’s unfortunate, I figured the clear coat would stand up better to the elements. Bummer. Do you think if I simply painted them, no clearcoat it would last a good while? I know it’ll get chipped and will need to be touched up but I don’t want to repaint the whole wheel once a year.

Jim- fortunately I have a couple sets of wheels I can use. I’ve got some chrome steels from a 95 and also some steelies from a 69 f100 (and the truck to go with it). Here’s the problem with me and steel wheels...I absolutely love them. This look here is just perfect to me.

Once I put them on I would never take them off. And that’s an option, I’ve thought really hard about doing that.

Rob and Gary- So I have a 2.5 inch lift from Rough Country. It came with radius arm drop brackets, axle pivot drop brackets, taller coil springs, leaf springs, and shocks. If you’re gonna lift the truck more than a 1.5 inch leveling kit you need a lift system with drop brackets and such otherwise you’ll never be able to get it aligned properly. Those drop brackets are what bring the entire suspension down to a workable geometry.

The most aggravating part about lifting the TTB suspension is the camber. The taller the spring or space you put in the front the more positive camber you will have because it forces the beams to pivot downwards tipping the top of the tire out. Hard to visualize? Put the truck on a lift or jack it up by the frame and watch the tires, you’ll see what I mean. Fortunately there are bushings to fix this. The top ball joint fits into a bushing where camber can be changed by using different bushings, also caster with the correct type of bushing. There are completely “adjustable” bushings that are recommended but know that if you have to beat it in to place you will have to beat it out and they will break. They are made of cheap metal. I got solid bushings so I could beat them in and out, it’s frustrating.

After lifting or leveling a TTB get the toe as close as you can. I use the string method. Drive the truck around the block then look at the tires and see what the camber looks like. Take it to an alignment shop and have them put it on the rack and give you a print out of how much the rack says it’s out of spec. You can then order the correct bushings or they can do it but it’s not cheap, at least not in my case. Remember this before ordering bushings, look at your existing bushings. On top there will be numbers telling you what degree bushing it is camber and caster. Mine was a 0 degree camber and caster from the factory. If the camber is out 2 degrees positive but you have 1 degree positive bushings already installed then you need a negative 1 degree bushing not a negative 2 degree. Make sense? That’s just a rough example.

I know people say toe doesn’t effect camber but extreme toe does effect it on these trucks if the stars align. I honestly just ball parked what bushings I needed. I knew it was between 1 or 2 degrees positive so I ordered 1.5 degree negative bushings knowing that it probably wouldn’t be perfect. But I got pretty lucky.

All that being said I’m no alignment expert. I know how to use an alignment rack, I know the terms, I’ve had some hands on experience but I’m no mechanic. I also still have to get my caster figured out. It pulls to the right pretty good and have minimal steering return. I wrote this up quick so if y’all see a mistake or have more questions just let me know!👍🏻

Jacob - I think an exterior paint will stand up to the UV far better than clear coating. So if it going to sit out you may want to use a paint intended for exterior use.

And thanks for the explanation on the lift. Makes sense.

[Sac79]

Gary- Yes, they truck sits outside and is not garage kept. That’s unfortunate, I figured the clear coat would stand up better to the elements. Bummer. Do you think if I simply painted them, no clearcoat it would last a good while? I know it’ll get chipped and will need to be touched up but I don’t want to repaint the whole wheel once a year.

Jim- fortunately I have a couple sets of wheels I can use. I’ve got some chrome steels from a 95 and also some steelies from a 69 f100 (and the truck to go with it). Here’s the problem with me and steel wheels...I absolutely love them. This look here is just perfect to me.

Once I put them on I would never take them off. And that’s an option, I’ve thought really hard about doing that.

Rob and Gary- So I have a 2.5 inch lift from Rough Country. It came with radius arm drop brackets, axle pivot drop brackets, taller coil springs, leaf springs, and shocks. If you’re gonna lift the truck more than a 1.5 inch leveling kit you need a lift system with drop brackets and such otherwise you’ll never be able to get it aligned properly. Those drop brackets are what bring the entire suspension down to a workable geometry.

The most aggravating part about lifting the TTB suspension is the camber. The taller the spring or space you put in the front the more positive camber you will have because it forces the beams to pivot downwards tipping the top of the tire out. Hard to visualize? Put the truck on a lift or jack it up by the frame and watch the tires, you’ll see what I mean. Fortunately there are bushings to fix this. The top ball joint fits into a bushing where camber can be changed by using different bushings, also caster with the correct type of bushing. There are completely “adjustable” bushings that are recommended but know that if you have to beat it in to place you will have to beat it out and they will break. They are made of cheap metal. I got solid bushings so I could beat them in and out, it’s frustrating.

After lifting or leveling a TTB get the toe as close as you can. I use the string method. Drive the truck around the block then look at the tires and see what the camber looks like. Take it to an alignment shop and have them put it on the rack and give you a print out of how much the rack says it’s out of spec. You can then order the correct bushings or they can do it but it’s not cheap, at least not in my case. Remember this before ordering bushings, look at your existing bushings. On top there will be numbers telling you what degree bushing it is camber and caster. Mine was a 0 degree camber and caster from the factory. If the camber is out 2 degrees positive but you have 1 degree positive bushings already installed then you need a negative 1 degree bushing not a negative 2 degree. Make sense? That’s just a rough example.

I know people say toe doesn’t effect camber but extreme toe does effect it on these trucks if the stars align. I honestly just ball parked what bushings I needed. I knew it was between 1 or 2 degrees positive so I ordered 1.5 degree negative bushings knowing that it probably wouldn’t be perfect. But I got pretty lucky.

All that being said I’m no alignment expert. I know how to use an alignment rack, I know the terms, I’ve had some hands on experience but I’m no mechanic. I also still have to get my caster figured out. It pulls to the right pretty good and have minimal steering return. I wrote this up quick so if y’all see a mistake or have more questions just let me know!👍🏻

Thanks Jacob. I should have guessed that you had a proper lift kit. Ray recently installed something similar(his might have been 4"?), but he also got the alignment close, not sure which bushings he has, I think the adjustable ones.

Anyway, I only have leveling coils... And even with 3.5deg adjustable bushings I can't get to neutral camber. I'm searching for ones with more adjustment, but not sure if they exist. In hindsight I should also have done a proper lift, or left it stock.