Wiring without ECU

[Andre]

Good morning, on my 82 Bronco I am in the final stages of restoration. ECU and cruise control are cut out. Also new starter with integrated relais en alternator with internal regulator installed, all to make it as clean as possible under the hood. Has anyone done the same and made a proper schematic with the proper wiring color codes. This could help me in finalizing the project. Found all wires already with most of the functions, but now the final part of alternator and lights and gauge on dash are the final question marks.

Any help would be helping me a lot, as most diagrams on the site show the original from factory set ups.

[Gary Lewis]

Andre - The Bronco is really looking good!

On the alternator, have you looked at our page here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion? There are schematics there, and perhaps that will help you.

However, you didn't say what alternator you are using. That page is geared to using a Ford "3G" alternator. But the ideas can be applied to others as well.

But, you said "lights and gauge on the dash". By "gauge" I assume you mean the ammeter. But does your truck have a warning indicator instead of the ammeter? Some did.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have a 3G alternator.

The instrument wire colors are included in the EVTM diagrams.

Are you asking about instrument lighting or vehicle lighting?

Many of us use a headlamp relay harness because it's a huge improvement over putting all that current through the headlamp switch and dash harness.

Are you also using a HEI distributor to eliminate the separate ignition coil?

[Andre]

Andre - The Bronco is really looking good!

On the alternator, have you looked at our page here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion? There are schematics there, and perhaps that will help you.

However, you didn't say what alternator you are using. That page is geared to using a Ford "3G" alternator. But the ideas can be applied to others as well.

But, you said "lights and gauge on the dash". By "gauge" I assume you mean the ammeter. But does your truck have a warning indicator instead of the ammeter? Some did.

I'm going to use a 63amp alternator, but with an internal voltage regulator, that fits on the same brackets as the original Ford alternator. I do have a amp meter, and that is the only thing I have not connected yet from all the wires I needed to sort out after I cut out all the ECU wires.

Furthermore I have the MSD ready to run distributor, that will be powered by a epoxy filled ignition coil.

I have bought a conversion kit for the head lights, including wire harness that will reduce the current over the old wires and switch.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm going to use a 63amp alternator, but with an internal voltage regulator, that fits on the same brackets as the original Ford alternator. I do have a amp meter, and that is the only thing I have not connected yet from all the wires I needed to sort out after I cut out all the ECU wires.

Furthermore I have the MSD ready to run distributor, that will be powered by a epoxy filled ignition coil.

I have bought a conversion kit for the head lights, including wire harness that will reduce the current over the old wires and switch.

I think you are going in the right direction. If your alternator only puts out 63 amps you don't need to remove the ammeter as it is quite capable of handling that much current.

I'd wire it as shown below. You will be removing the regulator on the fender and its associated wiring. However, the LG/R wire needs to go to the alternator to bootstrap it in when you turn the key - assuming your alternator has a provision for that as some just use the output wire to sense.

But the ammeter wiring can be left alone, as shown.

[Andre]

I think you are going in the right direction. If your alternator only puts out 63 amps you don't need to remove the ammeter as it is quite capable of handling that much current.

I'd wire it as shown below. You will be removing the regulator on the fender and its associated wiring. However, the LG/R wire needs to go to the alternator to bootstrap it in when you turn the key - assuming your alternator has a provision for that as some just use the output wire to sense.

But the ammeter wiring can be left alone, as shown.

Thanks Gary, that helps a lot, it will be august when I continue with the Bronco, but trying to get the info I need before. More pictures will follow when the build continues.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary, that helps a lot, it will be august when I continue with the Bronco, but trying to get the info I need before. More pictures will follow when the build continues.

Good luck! And enjoy the summer. Reading today about how warm it is there. Yipes!

[Andre]

I have a 3G alternator.

The instrument wire colors are included in the EVTM diagrams.

Are you asking about instrument lighting or vehicle lighting?

Many of us use a headlamp relay harness because it's a huge improvement over putting all that current through the headlamp switch and dash harness.

Are you also using a HEI distributor to eliminate the separate ignition coil?

Jim,

Thank you for your reply, I have already purchased the head light conversion, including the new wire harness to complete the installation.

You made me look into the HEI distributor, as I only thought they would work on GM, but I now see that they are converted to Ford as well. How is your experience with those. I noticed them on Summit Racing, and they are fairly cheap, to achieve what I want, a clean engine bay. I already have a offset ground plate for the air inlet filter to clear the distributor, so that should be no issue for the size.

Thanks for the tip, might be the one to go for.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim,

Thank you for your reply, I have already purchased the head light conversion, including the new wire harness to complete the installation.

You made me look into the HEI distributor, as I only thought they would work on GM, but I now see that they are converted to Ford as well. How is your experience with those. I noticed them on Summit Racing, and they are fairly cheap, to achieve what I want, a clean engine bay. I already have a offset ground plate for the air inlet filter to clear the distributor, so that should be no issue for the size.

Thanks for the tip, might be the one to go for.

Andre,

I don't have one on my truck, but I have installed (or helped) at least 6 of these.

In my experience they are all working well.

You must supply enough current in start and run.

My answer is to use a relay triggered by the old coil power to feed a #10 wire. (I'm sorry not to think in mm2)

[Andre]

Andre,

I don't have one on my truck, but I have installed (or helped) at least 6 of these.

In my experience they are all working well.

You must supply enough current in start and run.

My answer is to use a relay triggered by the old coil power to feed a #10 wire. (I'm sorry not to think in mm2)

Thanks Jim,

I might get her running for now on the Ready to Run MSD, as you have to image that all we buy here from the US us about 2.5 times more before we get it at the house, and the HEI is a nice upgrade in the near future.

This Bronco is going to be a blast, but most likely has cost more than it ever did when build new, but it will have for sure have more paint on it as well in 82. Updates will follow when I get back to it in August.

Kind regards.