Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Engine will not run above idle


Recommended Posts

Suggestion, take a timing light and put it on the coil wire, with the engine running apply vacuum to the advance unit. If the light continues to flash, then you may have an alignment issue with the reluctor.

If it quits flashing as the vacuum is applied, then it is in the pickup coil leads.

That is a great idea, Bill. Thank you! Unfortunately, I took back the vacuum tool, as I was renting it. I did rotate the reluctor wheel and it didn't make a bit of difference. Suspect, as you guys do that the new Stator is bad. I'll be putting that in Wednesday evening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So fellas, ordered another pick up coil through Orielly's this past weekend and went to pick it up today. Brand new right out of the box there was copper showing through the insulation of one of the wires running to the pick up. I told the guy that it was not acceptable and asked for my money back, which he did. Went across the street to Autozone and purchased a Duralast unit which is made by Weller. The previous unit was a Standard Motor product. Got it all put together, said an "Our Father" and a couple of "Hail Mary's" and he fired right up and purred like a kitten. And, get this.....runs with the ported vacuum advance too! What a ton of grief and wasted time that faulty part gave me, sheez.....arrrgh!!!

On a similar note, I was reading about the vacuum advance on both my Edlebrock Carb and a post I found and wondering if indeed I have it hooked up correctly. The Edlebrock carb info states to use the ported vacuum outlet for smog equipped vehicles and the manifold vacuum for non-smog equipped vehicles. I've removed all my smog stuff. The post I mentioned can be found in the following link. Note what the poster in the second post says.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/62693-manifold-or-ported-vacuum-for-distributor-advance.html

 

Friday, I'm going to fine tune him, change the oil and flush the radiator. He'll be good to go for awhile, I think. I have another project to work on and when finished, I think I'll pull the engine and go through it. Gary, you know of a good machine shop in our area?

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. Class act bunch here, appreciate ya!!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So fellas, ordered another pick up coil through Orielly's this past weekend and went to pick it up today. Brand new right out of the box there was copper showing through the insulation of one of the wires running to the pick up. I told the guy that it was not acceptable and asked for my money back, which he did. Went across the street to Autozone and purchased a Duralast unit which is made by Weller. The previous unit was a Standard Motor product. Got it all put together, said an "Our Father" and a couple of "Hail Mary's" and he fired right up and purred like a kitten. And, get this.....runs with the ported vacuum advance too! What a ton of grief and wasted time that faulty part gave me, sheez.....arrrgh!!!

On a similar note, I was reading about the vacuum advance on both my Edlebrock Carb and a post I found and wondering if indeed I have it hooked up correctly. The Edlebrock carb info states to use the ported vacuum outlet for smog equipped vehicles and the manifold vacuum for non-smog equipped vehicles. I've removed all my smog stuff. The post I mentioned can be found in the following link. Note what the poster in the second post says.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/62693-manifold-or-ported-vacuum-for-distributor-advance.html

 

Friday, I'm going to fine tune him, change the oil and flush the radiator. He'll be good to go for awhile, I think. I have another project to work on and when finished, I think I'll pull the engine and go through it. Gary, you know of a good machine shop in our area?

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. Class act bunch here, appreciate ya!!!

Don't know the other guys very well, but Dave/Franklin2 I know quite well. And he knows what he is talking about.

I, personally, always use ported. It is what works for me, each and every time. Manifold will work pretty well on a manual transmission, but not very well on an auto. On an auto, if you set the idle speed in neutral it'll be too low in gear. If you set it in gear it'll be way too high in neutral or Park, and it'll bang into gear after you start.

The issue is the amount of vacuum. You start the truck in Park and since there's no load there's lots of vacuum so the vacuum advance goes full tilt and speeds the engine way up. If you adjust that down via the idle stop screw and then drop it in gear the much lower idle in gear drops the vacuum, which reduces the advance, which reduces the RPM, which reduces the vacuum, which reduces the RPM, which....

So I gave up manifold vacuum years ago and use only ported. Works great on everything. I get a consistent idle, regardless of the transmission.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friday, I'm going to fine tune him, change the oil and flush the radiator. He'll be good to go for awhile, I think. I have another project to work on and when finished, I think I'll pull the engine and go through it. Gary, you know of a good machine shop in our area?

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. Class act bunch here, appreciate ya!!!

Left this for another post. No, I don't know a good machine shop. Brandon/Bruno2, who lives in BA, used one shop and had fits with them. So I used another shop and they didn't follow the instructions on the cam bearings from Tim Meyer and it would have ruined the cam had it not been caught. So I don't know who to recommend.

Anyway, glad we could help. And glad you got the ignition problem sorted. :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So fellas, ordered another pick up coil through Orielly's this past weekend and went to pick it up today. Brand new right out of the box there was copper showing through the insulation of one of the wires running to the pick up. I told the guy that it was not acceptable and asked for my money back, which he did. Went across the street to Autozone and purchased a Duralast unit which is made by Weller. The previous unit was a Standard Motor product. Got it all put together, said an "Our Father" and a couple of "Hail Mary's" and he fired right up and purred like a kitten. And, get this.....runs with the ported vacuum advance too! What a ton of grief and wasted time that faulty part gave me, sheez.....arrrgh!!!

On a similar note, I was reading about the vacuum advance on both my Edlebrock Carb and a post I found and wondering if indeed I have it hooked up correctly. The Edlebrock carb info states to use the ported vacuum outlet for smog equipped vehicles and the manifold vacuum for non-smog equipped vehicles. I've removed all my smog stuff. The post I mentioned can be found in the following link. Note what the poster in the second post says.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/62693-manifold-or-ported-vacuum-for-distributor-advance.html

 

Friday, I'm going to fine tune him, change the oil and flush the radiator. He'll be good to go for awhile, I think. I have another project to work on and when finished, I think I'll pull the engine and go through it. Gary, you know of a good machine shop in our area?

Thanks for all the help, gentlemen. Class act bunch here, appreciate ya!!!

John, it's unfortunate that I often have to tell members that "New parts aren't always good, and good parts aren't always new."

I'm glad you've found the problem, and your truck is behaving now. :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John, it's unfortunate that I often have to tell members that "New parts aren't always good, and good parts aren't always new."

I'm glad you've found the problem, and your truck is behaving now. :nabble_smiley_good:

That's a shame theirs not a decent machine shop in the Tulsa/BA area. I'll delve deeper into that when the time comes. Gary, I took a look on Big Blue's build and wow, you're really doing that truck up. Curious, did it come with a serpentine belt?

Jim, you are so right on new parts, especially this China made stuff. Been there many times, thus my desire to spend a little more and get a reliable part. Years ago wife had an 85 Olds Cutlass with a 305 V8. The belt/pulley system on that car was a mess and a real pain to deal with. I was poor in those days and needed a water pump for it. Bought an AZ pump with life time warranty. Seemed like once a year I was having to change that thing out, as the bearings would go bad in them. And worse, it was always in the cold winter months. Out there busting my knuckles in the cold.....don't miss that at all!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a shame theirs not a decent machine shop in the Tulsa/BA area. I'll delve deeper into that when the time comes. Gary, I took a look on Big Blue's build and wow, you're really doing that truck up. Curious, did it come with a serpentine belt?

Jim, you are so right on new parts, especially this China made stuff. Been there many times, thus my desire to spend a little more and get a reliable part. Years ago wife had an 85 Olds Cutlass with a 305 V8. The belt/pulley system on that car was a mess and a real pain to deal with. I was poor in those days and needed a water pump for it. Bought an AZ pump with life time warranty. Seemed like once a year I was having to change that thing out, as the bearings would go bad in them. And worse, it was always in the cold winter months. Out there busting my knuckles in the cold.....don't miss that at all!!!

John - I can get the names of the two shops we tried it that would help.

As for Big Blue, the 460’s didn’t go poly groove until much later - probably when they went to EFI. So I’m changing that as well as lots and lots of other details. Should be a much different truck when I’m done. 🤪

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John - I can get the names of the two shops we tried it that would help.

As for Big Blue, the 460’s didn’t go poly groove until much later - probably when they went to EFI. So I’m changing that as well as lots and lots of other details. Should be a much different truck when I’m done. 🤪

I looked it up. I used Stanley Morton/STK. They didn’t follow the directions on the cam bearing from Tim and messed something else up that Tim had to fix.

And Brandon had this to say;

I cant recommend Lucitos Machine where my rotating assembly is. They apparently wont work on it if I don't harass them. I have heard from plenty of people they do great work, even Weingartner swears by them, but block should be out of there by now. They apparently build a lot of dirt track motors and that is probably their bread and butter on the automotive side, but they need to use some kind of order to their work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked it up. I used Stanley Morton/STK. They didn’t follow the directions on the cam bearing from Tim and messed something else up that Tim had to fix.

And Brandon had this to say;

I cant recommend Lucitos Machine where my rotating assembly is. They apparently wont work on it if I don't harass them. I have heard from plenty of people they do great work, even Weingartner swears by them, but block should be out of there by now. They apparently build a lot of dirt track motors and that is probably their bread and butter on the automotive side, but they need to use some kind of order to their work.

I used a Morton Machine Shop in Coweta many years ago without issue. He's no longer there and am wondering if that is the same guy???

Gary, who is Tim? I noted you mentioned him in your Dad's Truck build also. That's quite a build there, need to read up a little more on that as I just skimmed through it earlier.....stroker motor, aluminum heads, headers, and roller setup. Yep, we gotta meet up, wanna see these projects of yours.

BTW, noted you have a lathe. I was a machinist in the AF and loved it. As such, I too have a small lathe and Mill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...