FuzzFace2 Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 The wife doesn't want to help me fight the 600lb IR off the trailer so we may just end up with the DeWalt which clocks in around 380lbs There is a reason why it is heavier ...... better built maybe? Even at 380 all the weight is up top making it fun to move ...... NOT! When I moved my son help me load mine into a POD container for shipping. When it showed up with 3 other POD's we had movers move the 2+ man stuff into the house and I was able to get them to help get it out and into my garage. Maybe hit the local corner help stand and offer $10 to $20 each to 2 guys to help off load it? I also like what Jim had to say LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 The plan right now unless my local HF has one of these is to plumb up enough pipe to control moisture. If I am correct Eastwood's did a thing on this and found that 50ft of line will help with air temp and moisture. The current plan then is copper pipe run in vertical runs with a water trap at the bottom of each run. I think I have room to run about 9 feet on each vertical. Little picture of my compressor and my air cooler / dryer. It is base board fin tube and some fittings with drip legs to catch and drain water. The blue line makes a loop all the way around the garage so the air does not follow just 1 path. I have never had water make it to any of my 5 hose drops that also have drip legs. When I painted my truck I did set up a box fan on low to blow across the drier. I forgot to add a filter at the my HVLP spray gun or any other type of filters or drier and had no issues. I don't remember the specs on my compressor but I can tell you it shuts off at 175 psi as that is the spec on it. Snap-On Big Red Dave ---- Dave, I have a setup very much like yours. I went with the Maxline plumbing, 3/4" and a copper tubing system to catch the moisture. I thought I had a pretty good setup initially but use of a DA made me realize I do not. Since I added the copper tubing system, I've had no problems. Still, when I get serious about painting, I'll probably be adding some things. As for a compressor, I went with Eaton, 5HP, 80 Gal, 220V single stage unit. I've had it for almost eight years now and it's never given me an issue. I'll have to post some pics up of my system. Good luck with your compressor, buddy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Dave, I have a setup very much like yours. I went with the Maxline plumbing, 3/4" and a copper tubing system to catch the moisture. I thought I had a pretty good setup initially but use of a DA made me realize I do not. Since I added the copper tubing system, I've had no problems. Still, when I get serious about painting, I'll probably be adding some things. As for a compressor, I went with Eaton, 5HP, 80 Gal, 220V single stage unit. I've had it for almost eight years now and it's never given me an issue. I'll have to post some pics up of my system. Good luck with your compressor, buddy! The water was why I did the fin tube right out of the compressor tank to help cool the air and drop the water out at the start. The other day I was getting a little water out my hose and found a little water at the hose drip leg. I need to go around and check them all and the tank also. I have only been turning on the compressor to blow dust off me or a part and then turning it off so I have not checked the drip legs in some time. When I sprayed the truck I had no issues with water but I had a fan blowing across the fin tube dryer. I also forgot to put a filter on the gun but I was ok just bugs and a little dirt when the cheap air blew. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 The water was why I did the fin tube right out of the compressor tank to help cool the air and drop the water out at the start. The other day I was getting a little water out my hose and found a little water at the hose drip leg. I need to go around and check them all and the tank also. I have only been turning on the compressor to blow dust off me or a part and then turning it off so I have not checked the drip legs in some time. When I sprayed the truck I had no issues with water but I had a fan blowing across the fin tube dryer. I also forgot to put a filter on the gun but I was ok just bugs and a little dirt when the cheap air blew. Dave ---- Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick. I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up. It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick. I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up. It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is When I lived it CT we had a scrap yard not far from me and they had some. I don't know where they got it from but I took all they had, 1 part was new they had hidden away. It's base board heating fin tube. I would think you could get it at any of the large hard ware box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. and the last place would be plumbing supply as it would be $$. You don't need the cover just the fin tube. First I would never use PVC and I don't care if they been using it forever NOT ME! Some use steel pipe but you can have issues with this. You would need to cut & thread it to fit where you want so not easy to work with, unless you have a plumber buddy. It has oil inside from when made to keep from rusting and threading. And the rust when you get water inside it will rust, so I don't like steel piping. Also what do you use to mount it? Copper is ok but I thought it would be to much $$ for all I needed then add fittings and it was more $$ Then you had to have a torch to solder it and don't burn down the garage and then what do you use to mount it? A shop I had with dad had copper air lines. I have not heard of PEX so could not say good or bad but if they say not for air I most likely not use it for air. The max line is a kit that has everything. Tool for cutting and cleaning the ruff edges, fittings other than for air hose cupplings, and has the hangers. You will need a tape measure, 2 large wrenches for the fittings (I used large adjustable wrenches), marker to mark where you want to cut the line and to mark the fittings to know how tight to go. The hangers use a nail so a hammer for them. The only thing I was worried about was the temp it can work in. Like you in SC it gets hot here in NC and I don't have AC. I have seen the temp in my garage at 98* the other day and I had all the doors open so how knows how hot with them down? But so far I have only had 1 failure and that was from me not tightening a fitting. I also turn off the compressor when I shut the garage down. I would hate a line or hose let go and the compressor running for days or weeks, if it would last that long, till I got out there to do something. It was something we did at the shop too. I know small 1 car garages! This is what I had in CT. To work on a side I had to push it to the wall on the other side. I could not push it out into the drive as my car trailer was there and it could not be parked on the street not hooked to something. You can just make out the compressor in front of the car between the 2 shelves. Below is a close up of the compressor and how I had the air dryer bolted to the side of the shelf. When I first started using the dryer I was getting water out the hose and could not figure why? When I got back to the compressor / dryer it was like 200*! No air flow back there. I opened a small window and put a box fan on the shelf and no more water out hose. That is why when I painted the truck I used a box fan to blow across the fin tube just to make sure it would cool the compressed air. Just my thinking on the compressed air system Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick. I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up. It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is When I lived it CT we had a scrap yard not far from me and they had some. I don't know where they got it from but I took all they had, 1 part was new they had hidden away. It's base board heating fin tube. I would think you could get it at any of the large hard ware box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. and the last place would be plumbing supply as it would be $$. You don't need the cover just the fin tube. First I would never use PVC and I don't care if they been using it forever NOT ME! Some use steel pipe but you can have issues with this. You would need to cut & thread it to fit where you want so not easy to work with, unless you have a plumber buddy. It has oil inside from when made to keep from rusting and threading. And the rust when you get water inside it will rust, so I don't like steel piping. Also what do you use to mount it? Copper is ok but I thought it would be to much $$ for all I needed then add fittings and it was more $$ Then you had to have a torch to solder it and don't burn down the garage and then what do you use to mount it? A shop I had with dad had copper air lines. I have not heard of PEX so could not say good or bad but if they say not for air I most likely not use it for air. The max line is a kit that has everything. Tool for cutting and cleaning the ruff edges, fittings other than for air hose cupplings, and has the hangers. You will need a tape measure, 2 large wrenches for the fittings (I used large adjustable wrenches), marker to mark where you want to cut the line and to mark the fittings to know how tight to go. The hangers use a nail so a hammer for them. The only thing I was worried about was the temp it can work in. Like you in SC it gets hot here in NC and I don't have AC. I have seen the temp in my garage at 98* the other day and I had all the doors open so how knows how hot with them down? But so far I have only had 1 failure and that was from me not tightening a fitting. I also turn off the compressor when I shut the garage down. I would hate a line or hose let go and the compressor running for days or weeks, if it would last that long, till I got out there to do something. It was something we did at the shop too. I know small 1 car garages! This is what I had in CT. To work on a side I had to push it to the wall on the other side. I could not push it out into the drive as my car trailer was there and it could not be parked on the street not hooked to something. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n66462/Rear002%25205_26_14.jpg You can just make out the compressor in front of the car between the 2 shelves. Below is a close up of the compressor and how I had the air dryer bolted to the side of the shelf. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n66462/Air%2520Drier%2520005.jpg When I first started using the dryer I was getting water out the hose and could not figure why? When I got back to the compressor / dryer it was like 200*! No air flow back there. I opened a small window and put a box fan on the shelf and no more water out hose. That is why when I painted the truck I used a box fan to blow across the fin tube just to make sure it would cool the compressed air. Just my thinking on the compressed air system Dave ---- been perusing the interwebs for baseboard elements and retrofit elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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