Nothing Special Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 .... 1967/77 Ford/Thompson "pencil neck" P/S pump (Most FoMoCo vehicles except 1975/77 Econolines & 1972/77 cars with Hydro-Boost). Has a steel reservoir, P/S pressure hose threads onto the pump.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ That sounds like the one (no pun intended given the whine I'm hearing). It definitely has a small filler neck/dipstick (~5/8" dia). And the steel reservoir slips over the output fitting where it's held on by a nut that goes over the same threads used by the pressure hose. .... On the parking brake pedal, can you space it out and be able to get to it w/o it, or you, hitting the clutch pedal? I haven't really looked at it that close yet, but something like that is the hope/plan. I've also heard of people cutting the pedal arm and fabbing something up to move the pedal even more to the right. We'll see what it looks like once I get into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 .... 1967/77 Ford/Thompson "pencil neck" P/S pump (Most FoMoCo vehicles except 1975/77 Econolines & 1972/77 cars with Hydro-Boost). Has a steel reservoir, P/S pressure hose threads onto the pump.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ That sounds like the one (no pun intended given the whine I'm hearing). It definitely has a small filler neck/dipstick (~5/8" dia). And the steel reservoir slips over the output fitting where it's held on by a nut that goes over the same threads used by the pressure hose. .... On the parking brake pedal, can you space it out and be able to get to it w/o it, or you, hitting the clutch pedal? I haven't really looked at it that close yet, but something like that is the hope/plan. I've also heard of people cutting the pedal arm and fabbing something up to move the pedal even more to the right. We'll see what it looks like once I get into it. I guess you still have the option of a Saginaw swap if you can't get the power steering to shut up. Looks like Vans and Lincoln's of the '70's were much the same as the Bullnose era. I wonder how different the emergency brake assembly was in 1971? Looking at mine, I'd imagine it easier to make a new mounting point at the lip of the dash and open the angle of the flange at the firewall than to get the release handle offset. I don't think the pedal would be the hard part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 I guess you still have the option of a Saginaw swap if you can't get the power steering to shut up. Looks like Vans and Lincoln's of the '70's were much the same as the Bullnose era. I thought about going that route, but decided I wanted the project to be over quicker (I'm running out of time before summer). So hopefully I'll be able to live with whatever the noise ends up being. But yes, there's a fall-back option. I wonder how different the emergency brake assembly was in 1971? Looking at mine, I'd imagine it easier to make a new mounting point at the lip of the dash and open the angle of the flange at the firewall than to get the release handle offset. I don't think the pedal would be the hard part. I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash. But from what I've read that doesn't get enough room, so making the pedal come over another inch or two is also necessary. But again, I'm only going by what I've read at this point. It'll get a lot more clear to me once I get a chance to look at the actual hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash.... Serves me right for spouting off before actually looking at it. Now I'm pretty sure I won't be moving the mounting point. In the picture below you can see that the release handle is barely accessible outside of the roll cage. If I shift it in I have to move it far enough that it will be accessible inside the cage. But doing that would move the point where the cable hooks up too far to the right so it wouldn't have a straight pull. I'm thinking now that rather than do that I'll leave it where it is and just move the pedal over. My biggest concern with that is that it will put a lot more twist into the mount when I apply the parking brake. So I'm going to have to figure out if I think that will cause more problems than it solves. So all I've got done so far is taking the pedal assembly out. It has enough issues (binding up with rust, rubber bumpers falling apart that require removing and replacing rivets to replace) that I'm looking to see if I can get a new replacement. So far I'm not finding anything. So no real progress yet, but at least I've got started. And it's important that I get started. On Monday we scheduled another trip out to Moab! So I have about 2 months to get this and the rock rail finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash.... Serves me right for spouting off before actually looking at it. Now I'm pretty sure I won't be moving the mounting point. In the picture below you can see that the release handle is barely accessible outside of the roll cage. If I shift it in I have to move it far enough that it will be accessible inside the cage. But doing that would move the point where the cable hooks up too far to the right so it wouldn't have a straight pull. I'm thinking now that rather than do that I'll leave it where it is and just move the pedal over. My biggest concern with that is that it will put a lot more twist into the mount when I apply the parking brake. So I'm going to have to figure out if I think that will cause more problems than it solves. So all I've got done so far is taking the pedal assembly out. It has enough issues (binding up with rust, rubber bumpers falling apart that require removing and replacing rivets to replace) that I'm looking to see if I can get a new replacement. So far I'm not finding anything. So no real progress yet, but at least I've got started. And it's important that I get started. On Monday we scheduled another trip out to Moab! So I have about 2 months to get this and the rock rail finished! Have you thought about getting one of the hand operated ones like some cars and trucks use? Might be able to mount it beside the seat or between the roll bar and body and pull up handle to apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Have you thought about getting one of the hand operated ones like some cars and trucks use? Might be able to mount it beside the seat or between the roll bar and body and pull up handle to apply. example: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-hd-solutions-3372/brake-systems-16456/brake-hardware-16511/emergency-parking-brake-release-handle-11194/bf06bdb20f65/dorman-hd-solutions-brake-release-handle/9245617/4242046?q=924-5617&pos=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 example: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-hd-solutions-3372/brake-systems-16456/brake-hardware-16511/emergency-parking-brake-release-handle-11194/bf06bdb20f65/dorman-hd-solutions-brake-release-handle/9245617/4242046?q=924-5617&pos=0 I'll keep that in mind as a fall-back, but I can't think of a great place for it. Between the roll cage and body would put it in the way of getting through the door when the brake was on. And between the seats would work well, but that's where my dog lays and there's not much room for her as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash.... Serves me right for spouting off before actually looking at it. Now I'm pretty sure I won't be moving the mounting point. In the picture below you can see that the release handle is barely accessible outside of the roll cage. If I shift it in I have to move it far enough that it will be accessible inside the cage. But doing that would move the point where the cable hooks up too far to the right so it wouldn't have a straight pull. I'm thinking now that rather than do that I'll leave it where it is and just move the pedal over. My biggest concern with that is that it will put a lot more twist into the mount when I apply the parking brake. So I'm going to have to figure out if I think that will cause more problems than it solves. So all I've got done so far is taking the pedal assembly out. It has enough issues (binding up with rust, rubber bumpers falling apart that require removing and replacing rivets to replace) that I'm looking to see if I can get a new replacement. So far I'm not finding anything. So no real progress yet, but at least I've got started. And it's important that I get started. On Monday we scheduled another trip out to Moab! So I have about 2 months to get this and the rock rail finished! It is hard to tell from a picture, but is there any way to bring the pedal out/back past the roll cage? In your shot it looks like it would clear the cage if it was brought straight back. If so, can it be also set up such that when released it is high but clears the door opening, and when depressed it goes down basically even with the cage? You'd have to change the geometry of the pedal's arm, but it looks like it might be doable - from the picture. Moab!!!! Cool! I'm jealous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 I'll definitely be shifting the mounting point out on the dash.... Serves me right for spouting off before actually looking at it. Now I'm pretty sure I won't be moving the mounting point. In the picture below you can see that the release handle is barely accessible outside of the roll cage. If I shift it in I have to move it far enough that it will be accessible inside the cage. But doing that would move the point where the cable hooks up too far to the right so it wouldn't have a straight pull. I'm thinking now that rather than do that I'll leave it where it is and just move the pedal over. My biggest concern with that is that it will put a lot more twist into the mount when I apply the parking brake. So I'm going to have to figure out if I think that will cause more problems than it solves. So all I've got done so far is taking the pedal assembly out. It has enough issues (binding up with rust, rubber bumpers falling apart that require removing and replacing rivets to replace) that I'm looking to see if I can get a new replacement. So far I'm not finding anything. So no real progress yet, but at least I've got started. And it's important that I get started. On Monday we scheduled another trip out to Moab! So I have about 2 months to get this and the rock rail finished! I guess I hadn't realized how far inboard the cage already is, Bob. I'm sure you'll figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 It is hard to tell from a picture, but is there any way to bring the pedal out/back past the roll cage?.... I'm sure I could get the pedal through the gap, but what doesn't show well is that the roll cage already encroaches on the door opening, so anything that the pedal came back would really be a knee-breaker. I suppose I could just view that as encouragement to always apply the parking brake! But I think I'm going to stick to the idea of moving the pedal inside of the cage Moab!!!! Cool! I'm jealous! After our first trip there (in September 2019) we had planned to go back in the spring of 2020. Well, like most people's plans for the spring of 2020, that didn't happen. So we're taking it off "pause" now! I guess I hadn't realized how far inboard the cage already is, Bob.... I guess I hadn't either. I didn't make the cage myself, I had a shop do it (a long time ago). I'm not sure right now why it's as far inboard as it is. It certainly made bending that bar easier (it has to be that narrow at the top so widening it at the bottom would've meant a compound bend at the bottom of the windshield). And it might have something to do with tying it in underneath (there's a body mount very close there, which complicates things, but also adds strength). But regardless, it's the way it is now. And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap! I don't think I'm going that route! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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