grumpin Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 It is hard to tell from a picture, but is there any way to bring the pedal out/back past the roll cage?.... I'm sure I could get the pedal through the gap, but what doesn't show well is that the roll cage already encroaches on the door opening, so anything that the pedal came back would really be a knee-breaker. I suppose I could just view that as encouragement to always apply the parking brake! But I think I'm going to stick to the idea of moving the pedal inside of the cage Moab!!!! Cool! I'm jealous! After our first trip there (in September 2019) we had planned to go back in the spring of 2020. Well, like most people's plans for the spring of 2020, that didn't happen. So we're taking it off "pause" now! I guess I hadn't realized how far inboard the cage already is, Bob.... I guess I hadn't either. I didn't make the cage myself, I had a shop do it (a long time ago). I'm not sure right now why it's as far inboard as it is. It certainly made bending that bar easier (it has to be that narrow at the top so widening it at the bottom would've meant a compound bend at the bottom of the windshield). And it might have something to do with tying it in underneath (there's a body mount very close there, which complicates things, but also adds strength). But regardless, it's the way it is now. And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap! I don't think I'm going that route! “And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap! I don't think I'm going that route!” Which is probably what I would do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 “And as I think about this I remember that when I picked it up after the cage was built they suggested to me that I could just carry a 2x4 with me to push the pedal through that gap! I don't think I'm going that route!” Which is probably what I would do! Bob, here is another option for your parking brake. The mid 60's van I drove had one of these. Might be able to put in in center of dash to stay out of your way getting in and out of the Bronco. It is a Ford part. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Z7C0q-k7wIVicDACh08XAnSEAQYAiABEgIa5_D_BwE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Bob, here is another option for your parking brake. The mid 60's van I drove had one of these. Might be able to put in in center of dash to stay out of your way getting in and out of the Bronco. It is a Ford part. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Z7C0q-k7wIVicDACh08XAnSEAQYAiABEgIa5_D_BwE Bruce - That link doesn't work. But since that might be a really good option, can you find another link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Bruce - That link doesn't work. But since that might be a really good option, can you find another link? https://www.jegs.com/i/Scott-Drake/204/C7ZZ-2780-A/10002/-1 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a Try these. Gary your truck is looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 https://www.jegs.com/i/Scott-Drake/204/C7ZZ-2780-A/10002/-1https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-aTry these. Gary your truck is looking good.Bruce - The Jegs link works for me, but not the Summit. Still, that will give Cory a good idea. Thanks. And thanks on the compliment. Just figured out what I have in it, and it should look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 https://www.jegs.com/i/Scott-Drake/204/C7ZZ-2780-A/10002/-1 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7zz-2780-a Try these. Gary your truck is looking good. I always think VW bus when I think of one of those set in the dash. It's a novel idea that won't interfere with Bob's co-pilot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 .... First up is finishing the rear drum brake conversion by getting the parking brake working. The pedal is hidden behind the roll cage "A" pillar bar, so I'm gonna hafta get a little crafty on it. Driver side rock slider is next after that. I'm hoping to have both of those wrapped up around the beginning of April. Plans had to change a bit. I lost the last three weeks to a medical issue (not Covid, but not something I'm going to discuss on-line, I am getting back to 100% and expect to get there soon). We have a trip with the Bronco planned in May, so at least the rock slider and possibly the parking brake are going to have to wait until after that trip. The biggest priorities were the things that NEEDED to be done before the trip. When I bought this Bronco in ~2002 the shock bushings seemed a bit suspect. I don't know how old the shocks were then, but I'm doubting they've improved in the last 19 years! And with the vibration I was getting last summer (which may have been primarily tire balance but could be shock-related) I figured it was time to replace the shocks. I pulled the old ones off about a month ago when I was starting on the parking brake project (hence NEEDING to get them replaced before the trip!). And today I got the new shocks installed. The other little project today was the fuel switching valve. Years ago I replaced the original mechanical valve with an electrical one that would be switched with the same switch that changes which tank is being read by the fuel gauge. Then a few less years ago I replaced that valve with another electrical one (the first electrical valve stranded me by not switching when I flipped the switch, so I ran out of gas while still having a full tank). Last summer the second electrical valve started leaking. Not dripping on the ground, but it would pull a little from whichever tank was not selected. So when I'd run on the 20 gallon main tank first, when I'd switch to the 9 gallon aux tank expecting it to be full it might only have about 3-4 gallons. That got a little spooky a couple of times. So with two electrical valves giving me issues I decided to go back to a mechanical valve. I swapped that in today as well. Now I need to remember to switch both the gauge and the valve when I want to change tanks. But it should be more reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 .... First up is finishing the rear drum brake conversion by getting the parking brake working. The pedal is hidden behind the roll cage "A" pillar bar, so I'm gonna hafta get a little crafty on it. Driver side rock slider is next after that. I'm hoping to have both of those wrapped up around the beginning of April. Plans had to change a bit. I lost the last three weeks to a medical issue (not Covid, but not something I'm going to discuss on-line, I am getting back to 100% and expect to get there soon). We have a trip with the Bronco planned in May, so at least the rock slider and possibly the parking brake are going to have to wait until after that trip. The biggest priorities were the things that NEEDED to be done before the trip. When I bought this Bronco in ~2002 the shock bushings seemed a bit suspect. I don't know how old the shocks were then, but I'm doubting they've improved in the last 19 years! And with the vibration I was getting last summer (which may have been primarily tire balance but could be shock-related) I figured it was time to replace the shocks. I pulled the old ones off about a month ago when I was starting on the parking brake project (hence NEEDING to get them replaced before the trip!). And today I got the new shocks installed. The other little project today was the fuel switching valve. Years ago I replaced the original mechanical valve with an electrical one that would be switched with the same switch that changes which tank is being read by the fuel gauge. Then a few less years ago I replaced that valve with another electrical one (the first electrical valve stranded me by not switching when I flipped the switch, so I ran out of gas while still having a full tank). Last summer the second electrical valve started leaking. Not dripping on the ground, but it would pull a little from whichever tank was not selected. So when I'd run on the 20 gallon main tank first, when I'd switch to the 9 gallon aux tank expecting it to be full it might only have about 3-4 gallons. That got a little spooky a couple of times. So with two electrical valves giving me issues I decided to go back to a mechanical valve. I swapped that in today as well. Now I need to remember to switch both the gauge and the valve when I want to change tanks. But it should be more reliable. I'm sorry you've had the medical problem, but glad to see you are getting back to 100%, Bob. . And I understand NEEDED instead of WANTED. Sounds like the fuel system is needed, and I think the mechanical switch is a good upgrade. (Regrade? Downgrade?) I think it is just a matter of time until the electrical ones fail, which is why I didn't want one on Big Blue. Plus the shocks are probably needed as well since they'll keep the tires from cupping. Plus, they are easily changed out. So, what else is "needed"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 .... So, what else is "needed"? That's sort of it. I still might do the parking brake. It'll just depend on how long it seems like it's taking. But I have some stuff taken apart that I need to put back together (and then take apart again when I do get to the parking brake). So it'd be nice to wrap it up. I'll poke at it a bit this week, and decide next weekend if I'm going to finish or bail out. Then the big thing is test driving it. It kept dying when I pulled it out of the garage to turn it around. Hopefully that was just cold and hadn't run in a while and it will settle down once I actually drive it. But I did rebuild the carb this winter and maybe it's not dialed in yet. I'll also need to get the motorhome out and unwinterized. And my younger son is moving so I'll be spending some time helping him. So I know the time will disappear quickly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 .... So, what else is "needed"? That's sort of it. I still might do the parking brake. It'll just depend on how long it seems like it's taking. But I have some stuff taken apart that I need to put back together (and then take apart again when I do get to the parking brake). So it'd be nice to wrap it up. I'll poke at it a bit this week, and decide next weekend if I'm going to finish or bail out. Then the big thing is test driving it. It kept dying when I pulled it out of the garage to turn it around. Hopefully that was just cold and hadn't run in a while and it will settle down once I actually drive it. But I did rebuild the carb this winter and maybe it's not dialed in yet. I'll also need to get the motorhome out and unwinterized. And my younger son is moving so I'll be spending some time helping him. So I know the time will disappear quickly! Well, it's back on the road! (sort of). I did get the parking brake pedal modified so I can work it around the roll cage. I cut part-way through the pedal arm, bent it to the right and welded it back up. It looks pretty awful (so do the welds). But it should work. I still have to hook up the cables before I'll have a working parking brake. I may or may not get to that before going to Moab (we'll have to see how everything else comes together and if I have any time for that). But getting the pedal modified and back in meant I could put my gauge panel back together and not have to take it out again later. Here are a few pictures of my work of art! In the first picture it's at the top of it's travel. In the 2nd and 3rd it's at the bottom. It looks a little close to the clutch pedal, but I'm not bumping it at all as I work the clutch, so I thin k it'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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