A/C Installation

[kramttocs]

When I redid the AC on my Bronco in 2002, it blew a hose. I replaced the hoses, the dryer, the orface tube( I put the blue one back in it as it was the stock one) I flushed the system and converted the system to R134. With all of this done, on a 119 deg day in Phoenix, we had to turn it down to keep from freezing.

To quote Mr Scott from Star Treck, " The more you mess with the plumbing, the easer it is to stop up the drain ".

One I learned in the Army, the hard way I might add, KISS...…………..Keep It Simple Stupid...… Ford engeneared it that way for a reason, and as we all know, Ford always had a better idea.

My neighbor uses the fixed. I also checked with the shop that tested the condenser. They said they have nothing but issues with the vov.

I like the idea of the vov but I'll stick with the fixed.

[Gary Lewis]

My neighbor uses the fixed. I also checked with the shop that tested the condenser. They said they have nothing but issues with the vov.

I like the idea of the vov but I'll stick with the fixed.

I guess I'll stay with a fixed one. KISS!

[FuzzFace2]

I guess I'll stay with a fixed one. KISS!

Ok so here it's almost a month later do we have any up dates?

What color orifice did you use?

Did you add any oil to the system and if so what type and how much?

I also take it you charged it with 134A?

Hope you don't mind a high jack:

I am also getting AC parts to get my F100 system working again.

I have a new condenser, used Sanden compressor (marked 85 F150), going to flush the evap., new dryer & orifice valve (blue I think) and not sure on hoses if new or used or combo of both?

So what oil do I add to the system PAG or Ester?

If PAG what flavor 46, 100 or 150?

How much oil with just a used compressor and the rest either new or flushed out?

When would the oil be added and where? Pull a vacuum and suck it in or pour it in a open hose before a vacuum is pulled?

And maybe the last question how much R134A would it take?

I know it should be weighed but if doing this all at home I would not have access to a scale so wing it with cans and gauges.

Then again I may get everything in place and if I cant get a vacuum pump may farm the charging out so would not really need to know then.

/ high jack

Thanks guys in advance

Dave ----

[old55pete]

Ok so here it's almost a month later do we have any up dates?

What color orifice did you use?

Did you add any oil to the system and if so what type and how much?

I also take it you charged it with 134A?

Hope you don't mind a high jack:

I am also getting AC parts to get my F100 system working again.

I have a new condenser, used Sanden compressor (marked 85 F150), going to flush the evap., new dryer & orifice valve (blue I think) and not sure on hoses if new or used or combo of both?

So what oil do I add to the system PAG or Ester?

If PAG what flavor 46, 100 or 150?

How much oil with just a used compressor and the rest either new or flushed out?

When would the oil be added and where? Pull a vacuum and suck it in or pour it in a open hose before a vacuum is pulled?

And maybe the last question how much R134A would it take?

I know it should be weighed but if doing this all at home I would not have access to a scale so wing it with cans and gauges.

Then again I may get everything in place and if I cant get a vacuum pump may farm the charging out so would not really need to know then.

/ high jack

Thanks guys in advance

Dave ----

Dave, I will give you what I have gleaned from the A/C classes I have taken over the last 20 years or so. In some states you HAVE to recert for A/C every couple of years and cant buy more then 3, 12 oz cans of R134 at a time if you are not certed. Welcome to California drewling into AZ.

1 The the blue orface tube should be fine for your pickup. It had a white one from the factory but the blue will work better the R134

2 If you are going to use R134, you need to be using Pag 150 oil with green die in it as the die will show where leaks are. You can use Ester oil, but pag 150 is recomended by Sanden and most of the major compressor manufacters. We have been told for years that Ester oil when used with R134 sets up a chem reaction that eats the aluminum parts in the system over time. The older the system, the quicker the reaction.

3 According to the Ford service manual for an 86 F150 regular cab, It has a 3 pound system. In that case, you need to add 1 oz of pag 150 for every 2 lbs of freon so an ounce and a half should be fine. Add the oil after you vacum down the system or at the same time you add the freon through the low side port.

4 You need to change the pressure switch on the accumulater/ dryer to an R134 switch as the pressures run a little different then they do with R12. The NAPA part number for this switch is TEM 207887, you can cross that to what ever parts source you want to.

5 Once you have the oil and freon added( you may have to start the engine and turn on the A/C to get the third lb in). Once all of that is done, watch the guages as the comperssor cycles. On the low side, the compressor should come on at around 22 lbs and shut off around 45 lbs, on the high side the compressor should shut off around 250 to 300 and come on around 100 psi. Some where between 250 and 300 lbs on the high side, the engine fan should kick in and drop the pressure. If the fan DOES NOT come on and drop the preassure , shut the engine off and replace the fan clutch. It the pressure is too high it will cause damage to the system.

Dont take any of this as gosple, it is just what I have learned as a truck and heavy equipment machanic over the last 20 or so years. I am sure someone on on this site knows a better way and has more nolage then me as even I am still learning.

[kramttocs]

Dave, I will give you what I have gleaned from the A/C classes I have taken over the last 20 years or so. In some states you HAVE to recert for A/C every couple of years and cant buy more then 3, 12 oz cans of R134 at a time if you are not certed. Welcome to California drewling into AZ.

1 The the blue orface tube should be fine for your pickup. It had a white one from the factory but the blue will work better the R134

2 If you are going to use R134, you need to be using Pag 150 oil with green die in it as the die will show where leaks are. You can use Ester oil, but pag 150 is recomended by Sanden and most of the major compressor manufacters. We have been told for years that Ester oil when used with R134 sets up a chem reaction that eats the aluminum parts in the system over time. The older the system, the quicker the reaction.

3 According to the Ford service manual for an 86 F150 regular cab, It has a 3 pound system. In that case, you need to add 1 oz of pag 150 for every 2 lbs of freon so an ounce and a half should be fine. Add the oil after you vacum down the system or at the same time you add the freon through the low side port.

4 You need to change the pressure switch on the accumulater/ dryer to an R134 switch as the pressures run a little different then they do with R12. The NAPA part number for this switch is TEM 207887, you can cross that to what ever parts source you want to.

5 Once you have the oil and freon added( you may have to start the engine and turn on the A/C to get the third lb in). Once all of that is done, watch the guages as the comperssor cycles. On the low side, the compressor should come on at around 22 lbs and shut off around 45 lbs, on the high side the compressor should shut off around 250 to 300 and come on around 100 psi. Some where between 250 and 300 lbs on the high side, the engine fan should kick in and drop the pressure. If the fan DOES NOT come on and drop the preassure , shut the engine off and replace the fan clutch. It the pressure is too high it will cause damage to the system.

Dont take any of this as gosple, it is just what I have learned as a truck and heavy equipment machanic over the last 20 or so years. I am sure someone on on this site knows a better way and has more nolage then me as even I am still learning.

Good info Steve.

House projects combined with the not so urgent need to go anywhere in the truck right now have lessened the urgency of this project. I found that the orifice tube was now a permanent fixture in the evap so without knowing the history of the compressor I ordered a new one the other day. If you buy the compressor, dryer, orifice, and flush the system you get a lifetime warranty.

I also ordered a new line between the dryer and condenser. Waiting on all that to come in (special order so will be a couple weeks).

[old55pete]

Good info Steve.

House projects combined with the not so urgent need to go anywhere in the truck right now have lessened the urgency of this project. I found that the orifice tube was now a permanent fixture in the evap so without knowing the history of the compressor I ordered a new one the other day. If you buy the compressor, dryer, orifice, and flush the system you get a lifetime warranty.

I also ordered a new line between the dryer and condenser. Waiting on all that to come in (special order so will be a couple weeks).

Scott, if you are talking about the small line, about 3/8 outside diamiter, I have a spare one here, some how I ended up with 2 when I ordered the hoses for mine.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave, I will give you what I have gleaned from the A/C classes I have taken over the last 20 years or so. In some states you HAVE to recert for A/C every couple of years and cant buy more then 3, 12 oz cans of R134 at a time if you are not certed. Welcome to California drewling into AZ.

1 The the blue orface tube should be fine for your pickup. It had a white one from the factory but the blue will work better the R134

2 If you are going to use R134, you need to be using Pag 150 oil with green die in it as the die will show where leaks are. You can use Ester oil, but pag 150 is recomended by Sanden and most of the major compressor manufacters. We have been told for years that Ester oil when used with R134 sets up a chem reaction that eats the aluminum parts in the system over time. The older the system, the quicker the reaction.

3 According to the Ford service manual for an 86 F150 regular cab, It has a 3 pound system. In that case, you need to add 1 oz of pag 150 for every 2 lbs of freon so an ounce and a half should be fine. Add the oil after you vacum down the system or at the same time you add the freon through the low side port.

4 You need to change the pressure switch on the accumulater/ dryer to an R134 switch as the pressures run a little different then they do with R12. The NAPA part number for this switch is TEM 207887, you can cross that to what ever parts source you want to.

5 Once you have the oil and freon added( you may have to start the engine and turn on the A/C to get the third lb in). Once all of that is done, watch the guages as the comperssor cycles. On the low side, the compressor should come on at around 22 lbs and shut off around 45 lbs, on the high side the compressor should shut off around 250 to 300 and come on around 100 psi. Some where between 250 and 300 lbs on the high side, the engine fan should kick in and drop the pressure. If the fan DOES NOT come on and drop the preassure , shut the engine off and replace the fan clutch. It the pressure is too high it will cause damage to the system.

Dont take any of this as gosple, it is just what I have learned as a truck and heavy equipment machanic over the last 20 or so years. I am sure someone on on this site knows a better way and has more nolage then me as even I am still learning.

Thanks for the information.

I got out of HVAC just when the need for cert's came out.

You can buy 3 cans 1 store and then 3 more at another if needed LOL

Not that I plan to do that. I want to only add the needed amount 1 time!

The oil that leaked out of the compressor had a green color to it.

I don't know if it was a R12 or 134A system it came off of, mine a R12.

That is why the question on oil as I thought some did not play well with R12.

I have Ester coming but want to make sure before I add anything to the system.

I knew the psi switches had different settings but thought the R12 could be adjusted?

But being the system is open might as well replace it with the right one.

The orifice valve was black that I pulled out but a blue one coming as that's what was listed to use.

Good to hear it will work.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

 

[old55pete]

Dave, I will give you what I have gleaned from the A/C classes I have taken over the last 20 years or so. In some states you HAVE to recert for A/C every couple of years and cant buy more then 3, 12 oz cans of R134 at a time if you are not certed. Welcome to California drewling into AZ.

1 The the blue orface tube should be fine for your pickup. It had a white one from the factory but the blue will work better the R134

2 If you are going to use R134, you need to be using Pag 150 oil with green die in it as the die will show where leaks are. You can use Ester oil, but pag 150 is recomended by Sanden and most of the major compressor manufacters. We have been told for years that Ester oil when used with R134 sets up a chem reaction that eats the aluminum parts in the system over time. The older the system, the quicker the reaction.

3 According to the Ford service manual for an 86 F150 regular cab, It has a 3 pound system. In that case, you need to add 1 oz of pag 150 for every 2 lbs of freon so an ounce and a half should be fine. Add the oil after you vacum down the system or at the same time you add the freon through the low side port.

4 You need to change the pressure switch on the accumulater/ dryer to an R134 switch as the pressures run a little different then they do with R12. The NAPA part number for this switch is TEM 207887, you can cross that to what ever parts source you want to.

5 Once you have the oil and freon added( you may have to start the engine and turn on the A/C to get the third lb in). Once all of that is done, watch the guages as the comperssor cycles. On the low side, the compressor should come on at around 22 lbs and shut off around 45 lbs, on the high side the compressor should shut off around 250 to 300 and come on around 100 psi. Some where between 250 and 300 lbs on the high side, the engine fan should kick in and drop the pressure. If the fan DOES NOT come on and drop the preassure , shut the engine off and replace the fan clutch. It the pressure is too high it will cause damage to the system.

Dont take any of this as gosple, it is just what I have learned as a truck and heavy equipment machanic over the last 20 or so years. I am sure someone on on this site knows a better way and has more nolage then me as even I am still learning.

Thanks for the information.

I got out of HVAC just when the need for cert's came out.

You can buy 3 cans 1 store and then 3 more at another if needed LOL

Not that I plan to do that. I want to only add the needed amount 1 time!

The oil that leaked out of the compressor had a green color to it.

I don't know if it was a R12 or 134A system it came off of, mine a R12.

That is why the question on oil as I thought some did not play well with R12.

I have Ester coming but want to make sure before I add anything to the system.

I knew the psi switches had different settings but thought the R12 could be adjusted?

But being the system is open might as well replace it with the right one.

The orifice valve was black that I pulled out but a blue one coming as that's what was listed to use.

Good to hear it will work.

Thanks again.

Dave ----

I am going to say that if it has green oil coming from the compressor, the system was converted to 134 and has pag 150 in it already. Of course that is a guess.

[kramttocs]

Scott, if you are talking about the small line, about 3/8 outside diamiter, I have a spare one here, some how I ended up with 2 when I ordered the hoses for mine.

Yep, that'd be it. O'Reilly's showed two options - one with a manual shut off and one without. I believe mine has the shut off (assuming that's what the squared off rod in the large line is for). Too late for me but maybe someone else will be able to use your spare one if you are wanting to sell it.

[kramttocs]

Yep, that'd be it. O'Reilly's showed two options - one with a manual shut off and one without. I believe mine has the shut off (assuming that's what the squared off rod in the large line is for). Too late for me but maybe someone else will be able to use your spare one if you are wanting to sell it.

Haven't done a good job documenting this (fortunately Dave is) but the A/C is installed and did a highway test run this evening to really check it out.

This is the first Bullnose I've had with a/c so unfamiliar with what is normal and I've only put about 20 minutes in with this one. The two I grew up in did but never paid attention and they were decommissioned too long ago.

The a/c at highways speeds works great. Need to put a thermometer on it but definitely got cold in the supercab.

First, at idle the rpms really take a hit. Drops down to a little over 500. Normally my converted voltmeter stays dead center but a couple times when idling in park or at a stoplight it went significantly to the left. I assume this is all rpm related and alternator output at those speeds as I don't think the a/c clutch pulls much at all. Alt is a 150amp unit on a single v belt.

Second, temps. Huge difference in coolant temp when the a/c is on. Prior to a/c, unless towing up a hill, the gauge stays between O-R when doing any driving at all. Idling in the shop with no air movement and 90 degree weather I've noticed in that past that when it gets to around A the fan clutch kicks in and drops it back down. With the a/c on this evening, even on the highway, it stayed pretty close to the M-A area. The fan clutch always brings it back down but is this much of a temp increase normal?

When we were charging it my neighbor was getting a little concerned with how high the a/c pressure was getting before the fan clutch kicked in. Once it kicked in, everything leveled out but I don't like the idea of there being any risk at all if running the a/c at idle. Should I change something to make the fan clutch kick in sooner? It's a new one replaced during the rebuild so 1500 miles on it.

The aluminum radiator came with a shroud with 2 electric fans built into it but most I've read says to stay with the mechanical fan.