HBF comes out of retirement

[HBF84]

That would be an awfully rich mix to create that, and you said it is running well so I seriously doubt it is rich.

So that means it is oil, and I'd guess that the Sea Foam is loosening things up and oil is getting by the seals and rings. Sea Foam is thin stuff and it may be what is getting by the seals, but it should also soften the seals. However, the rings won't really benefit from it. So I'd run it the prescribed time and then change the oil and filter. It may go back to smokeless operation when the SF is gone.

Ok. So, I’m starting to get a handle on the soot issue. But, I is still there at times.

1) The idle mixture screw on the carb was really backed off. I eventually pulled it out, soaked it in carb cleaner, and I have reset it at 1 turn counterclockwise from where it seats into the carb.

2) The PCV valve plastic doohickey had cracked and I replaced that this morning. It was causing a vacuum leak for sure. I’d hear the engine whistle when driving at idle and disappear when accelerating.

3) I changed the oil yesterday and it was pretty black but it could have been from the sea foam upper engine treatment.

4) The coolant was about 4 inches down from the neck of the cap and because there had been some white smoke (mixed in with the carbon chunks), I just completed a “combustion leak detector” test and it doesn’t look like I have a head gasket issue.

5) I did a smoke test yesterday and the PCV valve leaked (now replaced). Smoke came out of the carb, which seems appropriate. And, smoke came out of the EGR.

Would smoke come out of the EGR with the engine at rest? Does the diaphragm hang out in some neutral zone when the engine isn’t running? Or, maybe time to replace it?

I picked up a rebuild kit for the carb. But, haven’t tackled that yet. Not sure that’s a great idea. Sometimes the enemy of good is better, as my fiancé reminds me every now and then.

Thoughts?!?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok. So, I’m starting to get a handle on the soot issue. But, I is still there at times.

1) The idle mixture screw on the carb was really backed off. I eventually pulled it out, soaked it in carb cleaner, and I have reset it at 1 turn counterclockwise from where it seats into the carb.

2) The PCV valve plastic doohickey had cracked and I replaced that this morning. It was causing a vacuum leak for sure. I’d hear the engine whistle when driving at idle and disappear when accelerating.

3) I changed the oil yesterday and it was pretty black but it could have been from the sea foam upper engine treatment.

4) The coolant was about 4 inches down from the neck of the cap and because there had been some white smoke (mixed in with the carbon chunks), I just completed a “combustion leak detector” test and it doesn’t look like I have a head gasket issue.

5) I did a smoke test yesterday and the PCV valve leaked (now replaced). Smoke came out of the carb, which seems appropriate. And, smoke came out of the EGR.

Would smoke come out of the EGR with the engine at rest? Does the diaphragm hang out in some neutral zone when the engine isn’t running? Or, maybe time to replace it?

I picked up a rebuild kit for the carb. But, haven’t tackled that yet. Not sure that’s a great idea. Sometimes the enemy of good is better, as my fiancé reminds me every now and then.

Thoughts?!?

EGR should seal, unless vacuum applied through the usual combination of thermal and modulating switches/valves/solenoids. (whichever your 4.9 uses)

If it is off seat that would definitely cause running problems, especially at idle.

Where is the smoke coming out? Do you have the EGR vacuum line disconnected?

Are you sure it isn't coming from the carburetor base screws being loose?

I'm not sure what the base position is for the idle screw in a YFA but you should probably reset for highest vacuum at appropriate curb idle speed after checking for proper advance as outlined on the radiator support sticker.

The YFA is perhaps the most basic carb found in this era. I wouldn't be afraid of going through it, cleaning jets and setting float height, etc..

If the steam you see in your exhaust doesn't smell sweet (like antifreeze) then it's probably just condensation evaporating out of the exhaust system.

I definitely would wonder why my coolant was so low though..

[HBF84]

EGR should seal, unless vacuum applied through the usual combination of thermal and modulating switches/valves/solenoids. (whichever your 4.9 uses)

If it is off seat that would definitely cause running problems, especially at idle.

Where is the smoke coming out? Do you have the EGR vacuum line disconnected?

Are you sure it isn't coming from the carburetor base screws being loose?

I'm not sure what the base position is for the idle screw in a YFA but you should probably reset for highest vacuum at appropriate curb idle speed after checking for proper advance as outlined on the radiator support sticker.

The YFA is perhaps the most basic carb found in this era. I wouldn't be afraid of going through it, cleaning jets and setting float height, etc..

If the steam you see in your exhaust doesn't smell sweet (like antifreeze) then it's probably just condensation evaporating out of the exhaust system.

I definitely would wonder why my coolant was so low though..

Thanks Jim!

I am pretty sure the smoke is not coming from the base screws and I recently tightened them during these changes in performance. I’ll try to remove the EGR valve this weekend. Getting a new valve will take about a week (after checking at Napa and O’Reilly’s… the woes of island life.)

My sense of smell is pretty bad and can barely smell gasoline when sticking my nose in a gas can. My fiancé might let me borrow her nose to assist after these most recent changes (after the new PCV valve). She couldn’t really describe it aside from “really bad”. But, maybe now, the smell will be more refined after the work.

I’ve always been curious about the settings and how to navigate them…Happy Blue Ford doesn’t have a tachometer. What do folks use in a situation like this? I’ve seen little RPM meters for chainsaws. Do they make something similar for vehicle engines?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim!

I am pretty sure the smoke is not coming from the base screws and I recently tightened them during these changes in performance. I’ll try to remove the EGR valve this weekend. Getting a new valve will take about a week (after checking at Napa and O’Reilly’s… the woes of island life.)

My sense of smell is pretty bad and can barely smell gasoline when sticking my nose in a gas can. My fiancé might let me borrow her nose to assist after these most recent changes (after the new PCV valve). She couldn’t really describe it aside from “really bad”. But, maybe now, the smell will be more refined after the work.

I’ve always been curious about the settings and how to navigate them…Happy Blue Ford doesn’t have a tachometer. What do folks use in a situation like this? I’ve seen little RPM meters for chainsaws. Do they make something similar for vehicle engines?

I have one of those 2-stroke tachometers.

I would say for an automobile you're probably best off with a timing light that has tach function, since you need a timing light to set your distributor anyhow.

[HBF84]

I have one of those 2-stroke tachometers.

I would say for an automobile you're probably best off with a timing light that has tach function, since you need a timing light to set your distributor anyhow.

Thanks for the guidance and encouragement!

Ok, so today I pulled the EGR valve:

When I pull the diaphragm back and put my finger over the suction tube, it doesn’t stay up. Some internet folks say this is a sign of a bad valve. And, I can’t seem to locate a vacuum gauge/pump at the local parts store. A new EGR could be here on Wednesday (flown from the mainland.) Think it might be the cause of the chugging, knocking, and possibly contributing to the black soot issue?!?

Thanks in advance to all those with guidance!!!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the guidance and encouragement!

Ok, so today I pulled the EGR valve:

When I pull the diaphragm back and put my finger over the suction tube, it doesn’t stay up. Some internet folks say this is a sign of a bad valve. And, I can’t seem to locate a vacuum gauge/pump at the local parts store. A new EGR could be here on Wednesday (flown from the mainland.) Think it might be the cause of the chugging, knocking, and possibly contributing to the black soot issue?!?

Thanks in advance to all those with guidance!!!

You can test the valve with a piece of vacuum hose. Put the hose on the valve, suck on the hose, and then put your tongue over the end of the hose. If the valve is good it'll stay open for a long time. A bad valve will close pretty quickly as the vacuum leaks off.

[HBF84]

You can test the valve with a piece of vacuum hose. Put the hose on the valve, suck on the hose, and then put your tongue over the end of the hose. If the valve is good it'll stay open for a long time. A bad valve will close pretty quickly as the vacuum leaks off.

Thank you!

I did something similar. I took a length of clear vinyl tubing (blue tint colored and rated for gas so sturdy enough it didn’t collapse) and secured it to the vacuum port with a hose clamp. Then, I took my vacuum cleaner, attached the attachment to clean corners, stuck the tune in that, covered all the extra air spots with my hand, and turned on the vacuum. The diaphragm didn’t budge. But, an actual vacuum gauge/pump handle tool thingy isn’t readily available to use.

Think my “vacuum test” sufficed to determine the EGR is bad?!?

[HBF84]

Thank you!

I did something similar. I took a length of clear vinyl tubing (blue tint colored and rated for gas so sturdy enough it didn’t collapse) and secured it to the vacuum port with a hose clamp. Then, I took my vacuum cleaner, attached the attachment to clean corners, stuck the tune in that, covered all the extra air spots with my hand, and turned on the vacuum. The diaphragm didn’t budge. But, an actual vacuum gauge/pump handle tool thingy isn’t readily available to use.

Think my “vacuum test” sufficed to determine the EGR is bad?!?

And just tried your method, Gary. I am not able to create a vacuum. The diaphragm doesn’t move. When I manually push the diaphragm to the “open position” the diaphragm collapses back down to the “closed” position immediately without generating any vacuum. Guess it must be worn out. Probably the original EGR but maybe I replaced it with factory OEM at one point, like when my friend and I rebuilt the carb.

[Gary Lewis]

And just tried your method, Gary. I am not able to create a vacuum. The diaphragm doesn’t move. When I manually push the diaphragm to the “open position” the diaphragm collapses back down to the “closed” position immediately without generating any vacuum. Guess it must be worn out. Probably the original EGR but maybe I replaced it with factory OEM at one point, like when my friend and I rebuilt the carb.

Yes, it appears the EGR valve's vacuum diaphragm is shot.

[HBF84]

Yes, it appears the EGR valve's vacuum diaphragm is shot.

Well, while awaiting the EGR valve, I thought maybe I could tackle the carburetor. Well, it came apart well enough and maybe the accelerator pump diaphragm was torn. The rubber was worn and there was a little crack in it. There were four rubber grommets on the link pump lifter that pretty much disintegrated. Having put it all back together, it seems that the throttle plate doesn't close in the throttle bore and the accelerator and idle setting screws are too far away to reach the idle cam. It seems like the throttle sensor assembly causes this because I need to open up the throttle plate to bolt the throttle sensor assembly in.

1) Is this normal? When I install the carburetor and electricity to the throttle sensor assembly, will it adjust the throttle plate and in turn the accelerator/idle setting screws?

2) I am not sure I did the metering rod adjustment correctly, and perhaps that is causing the throttle plate and accelerator/idle screws to be askew? Should I open it back up and try readjusting the metering rod? Videos online didn't help too much but now that I have re-read the literature on the YFA carb on this site, it makes a little bit more sense on how to do it.

And, when setting the electric choke, I stripped one of the machine screws (all three holes had screws as opposed to two having rivets.)

So, in general, I am happy I tried to rebuild the carb but I'm not sure I was successful... Just curious if I should slap it on and see if it works or redo a few items first. Thoughts?