HBF comes out of retirement

[HBF84]

The 1992 - 1997 F5TZ2A602CA F-150 F-250 F-350 Parking Brake Equalizer Bar pulls on opposite sides of the channel instead of the center (bottom) of the 'U'.

The '92-'97 equalizer doesn't accept the long threaded adjuster on the end of the cable coming from the pedal assembly.

As you can see in these photos from JBG.

'61-'91

'92-'97

Aloha,

Ok, when HBF came out of retirement in Maryland, the countryside was pretty much flat. Now, climbing up and down dormant volcanos, I’m noticing my engine temperature climbing. I’ve done a radiator flush and perhaps that improved things a bit. There are some fins that have deteriorated from the rows on the radiator. And, before the HBF took the retirement hiatus, I am pretty sure I replaced the water pump, hoses and the thermostat (and radiator too). There are no signs of a failing water pump these days.

It was pointed out to me that my upper radiator hose might have an air pocket. It’s a Motorcraft 1287 equivalent which is the hose for the 4.9L with AC. The course of the hose goes above the radiator inlet and has the potential to create a bubble. HBF doesn’t have AC so could run with the MC1122.

At the local parts stores, it seems that the replacement hose in the computers is the MC1287 which has the curve that is above the radiator and would be the high point.

Has anyone noticed a change in engine cooling between these two hoses? And, if this was an issue, I suspect folks with AC’s would have brought this up? Thoughts?!?

[HBF84]

Aloha,

Ok, when HBF came out of retirement in Maryland, the countryside was pretty much flat. Now, climbing up and down dormant volcanos, I’m noticing my engine temperature climbing. I’ve done a radiator flush and perhaps that improved things a bit. There are some fins that have deteriorated from the rows on the radiator. And, before the HBF took the retirement hiatus, I am pretty sure I replaced the water pump, hoses and the thermostat (and radiator too). There are no signs of a failing water pump these days.

It was pointed out to me that my upper radiator hose might have an air pocket. It’s a Motorcraft 1287 equivalent which is the hose for the 4.9L with AC. The course of the hose goes above the radiator inlet and has the potential to create a bubble. HBF doesn’t have AC so could run with the MC1122.

At the local parts stores, it seems that the replacement hose in the computers is the MC1287 which has the curve that is above the radiator and would be the high point.

Has anyone noticed a change in engine cooling between these two hoses? And, if this was an issue, I suspect folks with AC’s would have brought this up? Thoughts?!?

Flushing with multiple rounds of distilled water and flushing compound (starting with driver’s side/right side of photo.)

I burped the upper radiator hose after doing this flush. But, perhaps a new one builds up periodically?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Flushing with multiple rounds of distilled water and flushing compound (starting with driver’s side/right side of photo.)

I burped the upper radiator hose after doing this flush. But, perhaps a new one builds up periodically?

A bubble in the radiator hose (above the radiator level) won't be a concern with the thermostat open.

I can't speak specifically about a 300-6 with AC

I wouldn't bother with distilled water for flushing either. It won't be in there long enough to cause scale.

But I'm not sure of what "flushing compound" you're using, or why they might even suggest using distilled.

Definitely use distilled water for your final fill if you don't buy pre-diluted coolant.

It does look like you had some nasty sludge in the system! 😝

With a new water pump, thermostat and hoses the only thing that concerns me is the corroded radiator fins. (and possibly lack of a spring in the lower hose)

Oxides are generally very good insulators. So visible corrosion would have me checking temps at the radiator outlet and a few spots of the core with a non-contact IR thermometer.

[HBF84]

A bubble in the radiator hose (above the radiator level) won't be a concern with the thermostat open.

I can't speak specifically about a 300-6 with AC

I wouldn't bother with distilled water for flushing either. It won't be in there long enough to cause scale.

But I'm not sure of what "flushing compound" you're using, or why they might even suggest using distilled.

Definitely use distilled water for your final fill if you don't buy pre-diluted coolant.

It does look like you had some nasty sludge in the system! 😝

With a new water pump, thermostat and hoses the only thing that concerns me is the corroded radiator fins. (and possibly lack of a spring in the lower hose)

Oxides are generally very good insulators. So visible corrosion would have me checking temps at the radiator outlet and a few spots of the core with a non-contact IR thermometer.

Thank you! I’ll try to find an IR thermometer!

[HBF84]

Thank you! I’ll try to find an IR thermometer!

Well, the brake light on the dashboard comes on most mornings and goes off after a few miles…

The brake booster hisses and the master cylinder isn’t the original one but it’s pretty old.

Replace both? Replace the vacuum tube going to the brake booster? Enjoy the hisses and just change the master cylinder? Whack the master cylinder and see if the light goes off?

Seriously, to what extent would a poor vacuum in the brake booster influence the valve in the master cylinder that triggers the dashboard brake light?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, the brake light on the dashboard comes on most mornings and goes off after a few miles…

The brake booster hisses and the master cylinder isn’t the original one but it’s pretty old.

Replace both? Replace the vacuum tube going to the brake booster? Enjoy the hisses and just change the master cylinder? Whack the master cylinder and see if the light goes off?

Seriously, to what extent would a poor vacuum in the brake booster influence the valve in the master cylinder that triggers the dashboard brake light?

There is no level switch in the master cylinder.

There is a switch in the proportioning valve, and there should be a switch on the parking brake pedal in '84.

It's time to see which reservoir is empty and inspect the brake lines for that axle (front is rear and the rear is for the front brakes)

If you hear hissing up under the dash it's safe to assume the diaphragm in the booster is gone.

Sometimes this is because the master cylinder leaks out the back into the booster and brake fluid eats the rubber.

I would examine the vacuum check valve that attaches to the booster.

See if it's wet, and if it still holds pressure.

If you can get a pre-adjusted assembly (booster & master together) that may be the way to go.

[HBF84]

There is no level switch in the master cylinder.

There is a switch in the proportioning valve, and there should be a switch on the parking brake pedal in '84.

It's time to see which reservoir is empty and inspect the brake lines for that axle (front is rear and the rear is for the front brakes)

If you hear hissing up under the dash it's safe to assume the diaphragm in the booster is gone.

Sometimes this is because the master cylinder leaks out the back into the booster and brake fluid eats the rubber.

I would examine the vacuum check valve that attaches to the booster.

See if it's wet, and if it still holds pressure.

If you can get a pre-adjusted assembly (booster & master together) that may be the way to go.

Aloha ALCON,

Well, the brake light/warning light seemed to have fixed itself for the time being!

But, about a week ago, HBF seemed to be running like it was starved for fuel. I had put a inline fuel filter in a couple years back when HBF came out of retirement and never was able to undo the fuel filter at the carburetor. Well, this weekend, I took another crack at it and was able to remove it.

[HBF84]

Aloha ALCON,

Well, the brake light/warning light seemed to have fixed itself for the time being!

But, about a week ago, HBF seemed to be running like it was starved for fuel. I had put a inline fuel filter in a couple years back when HBF came out of retirement and never was able to undo the fuel filter at the carburetor. Well, this weekend, I took another crack at it and was able to remove it.

And now, HBF seems to run a lot better. Also, I tightened down the carb, did a seafoam “upper engine treatment”, and replaced the stretch of fuel line from the frame to the mechanical fuel pump.

Afterwards, I noticed this on the wall of the garage:

[HBF84]

And now, HBF seems to run a lot better. Also, I tightened down the carb, did a seafoam “upper engine treatment”, and replaced the stretch of fuel line from the frame to the mechanical fuel pump.

Afterwards, I noticed this on the wall of the garage:

At first, I thought it could be the carbon from the treatment and tightening the carb (I shifted it around a bit.). But, then I noticed the second spot on the wall and then again, this morning, I put my hand next to the exhaust and got a handful of carbon.

So, not really sure how long this has been going on because I don’t often park HBF in the garage. It probably has been 3 months since the tail pipe was parked against a wall.

Thoughts? The engine felt like it was starving for fuel last week so I don’t think this a rich fuel mixture issue. And, that would be consistent with the fuel filter. Some internet reading points to a problem under the valve cover. The dipstick is down about a pint of oil.

Anyhow, curious what the brain trust thinks!!!

[Gary Lewis]

At first, I thought it could be the carbon from the treatment and tightening the carb (I shifted it around a bit.). But, then I noticed the second spot on the wall and then again, this morning, I put my hand next to the exhaust and got a handful of carbon.

So, not really sure how long this has been going on because I don’t often park HBF in the garage. It probably has been 3 months since the tail pipe was parked against a wall.

Thoughts? The engine felt like it was starving for fuel last week so I don’t think this a rich fuel mixture issue. And, that would be consistent with the fuel filter. Some internet reading points to a problem under the valve cover. The dipstick is down about a pint of oil.

Anyhow, curious what the brain trust thinks!!!

That would be an awfully rich mix to create that, and you said it is running well so I seriously doubt it is rich.

So that means it is oil, and I'd guess that the Sea Foam is loosening things up and oil is getting by the seals and rings. Sea Foam is thin stuff and it may be what is getting by the seals, but it should also soften the seals. However, the rings won't really benefit from it. So I'd run it the prescribed time and then change the oil and filter. It may go back to smokeless operation when the SF is gone.