86 F350 1 ton Dump Resurrection

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you

That is why I'm here, to get help fixing this.

I am not sure I understand how the seal at the carb to manifold works.

Is it or should it be air tight where the spacer plate meets the intake manifold?

I'm assuming that carb gasket is shot?

Wouldn't the gasket leaking air be enough to cause those high readings just on its on?

I'm ready to fix it just tell me what I need to do. Rebuild kit?

Thank you.

That's the EGR base gasket, and it's best replaced with the Genuine Ford (updated -E8TE-) one.

I'm on a short break.

I'll look up the rebuild kit when I get home

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's the EGR base gasket, and it's best replaced with the Genuine Ford (updated -E8TE-) one.

I'm on a short break.

I'll look up the rebuild kit when I get home

The Holley kit # is 3-1346

I will tell you (from personal experience) do not get some aftermarket kit.

Also... ironically it is a Cali prop 65 item!

If you need floats, get the brass ones.

If you need a powervalve just use single stage. Something like 7 is good.

You should consider installing a blowout preventer check valve while you have it apart.

When the DSII dies, and the truck backfires it will be worth it!

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Holley kit # is 3-1346

I will tell you (from personal experience) do not get some aftermarket kit.

Also... ironically it is a Cali prop 65 item!

If you need floats, get the brass ones.

If you need a powervalve just use single stage. Something like 7 is good.

You should consider installing a blowout preventer check valve while you have it apart.

When the DSII dies, and the truck backfires it will be worth it!

The EGR spacer gasket is E8TE-9447-AA, also known as Motorcraft CG 536-B

Trust me, it is the one you want.

[Pizzadude]

Thank you,

Here are the numbers I got distracted searching, what a mess even with these numbers it was confusing a bit.

I know I mentioned it's a 4180 but after looking up so much crap I thought I better post this in case I misled you guys.

I actually got it freed up..well not loose but it moves. I'm not sure how tight it should be?

I'm going to order the kit as soon as you confirm those numbers do not change your mind.

I have an appointment for Monday for the smog test.

It looks like I can get the kit from Wal-Mart of all places and by Friday. That should give me time to get it done.

I can change the appointment If I have to. Honestly I'd rather fix it myself than have them do it, I mean the smog part not rebuild the carb.

Not trying to rush to judgement but would/could that gasket be contributing to the numbers?

Thank you again.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you,

Here are the numbers I got distracted searching, what a mess even with these numbers it was confusing a bit.

I know I mentioned it's a 4180 but after looking up so much crap I thought I better post this in case I misled you guys.

I actually got it freed up..well not loose but it moves. I'm not sure how tight it should be?

I'm going to order the kit as soon as you confirm those numbers do not change your mind.

I have an appointment for Monday for the smog test.

It looks like I can get the kit from Wal-Mart of all places and by Friday. That should give me time to get it done.

I can change the appointment If I have to. Honestly I'd rather fix it myself than have them do it, I mean the smog part not rebuild the carb.

Not trying to rush to judgement but would/could that gasket be contributing to the numbers?

Thank you again.

That Ford number and list number is definitely a 4180 built for 1985.

When was your truck manufacturing date (from the door tag)

Anyway, definitely the right carb for that truck.

[Pizzadude]

That Ford number and list number is definitely a 4180 built for 1985.

When was your truck manufacturing date (from the door tag)

Anyway, definitely the right carb for that truck.

Hey guys

So the date is 03-86. I just took off the front bowl cover. The screws were loose which would explain why let last time I fired it up it was leaking.

I believe I replaced the power valve a few years ago when I did all that work or possibly before that. I can't remember which one it is there a way to tell?

The o rings are hard. The power valve spring pushes in and comes back out smooth it not stuck or resists.

Can I just take the throttle shaft out and clean them up or do they need to be replaced?

There is still gunk in there so I don't know if they have play or not.

Thanks again

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey guys

So the date is 03-86. I just took off the front bowl cover. The screws were loose which would explain why let last time I fired it up it was leaking.

I believe I replaced the power valve a few years ago when I did all that work or possibly before that. I can't remember which one it is there a way to tell?

The o rings are hard. The power valve spring pushes in and comes back out smooth it not stuck or resists.

Can I just take the throttle shaft out and clean them up or do they need to be replaced?

There is still gunk in there so I don't know if they have play or not.

Thanks again

The powervalve should have a set point number stamped into it.

Unstaking and removing the butterflies is tricky. Especially getting them back into place.

Mark them and their bores so they go back in the correct orientation.

Check the fit of the shafts in the carb body and make sure you don't need to bush it for a good fit.

IIRC, the 4180 already has plastic bushings, but they wear.

And there's definitely wear if the shafts are rusty.

[Pizzadude]

The powervalve should have a set point number stamped into it.

Unstaking and removing the butterflies is tricky. Especially getting them back into place.

Mark them and their bores so they go back in the correct orientation.

Check the fit of the shafts in the carb body and make sure you don't need to bush it for a good fit.

IIRC, the 4180 already has plastic bushings, but they wear.

And there's definitely wear if the shafts are rusty.

I got it out 👍 I just lightly tapped it from one end till it came out. It was tight all the way to the end.

The pic shows the end opposite the throttle cable.

One of the heads of the screws sheered off it looks like it was already partially broke.

I gently filed down the screw bases where they went through the shaft so they would come out. The were slightly smashed which I guess was sop for their install.

The crap on the shaft does not appear to be rust. I mean it's rusty looking but it's not adhered like rust. It's more like a surface gunk. I just barely scraped it with a flat screwdriver end not even getting to the metal then took the pic.

The other bushing locations do not have any of this residue on them.

The bore in that location has white residue I'm assuming from the bushing?

The pic is the bushings located in this area of crap build up. The other bushings are fully intact. I'm assuming new ones will come with the kit?

I was unable to find any numbers on the power valve. I know I replaced it. I will see if I can get the info from the parts house.

How should I go about cleaning this crap off? The other areas are free and clear.

Thanks again.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I got it out 👍 I just lightly tapped it from one end till it came out. It was tight all the way to the end.

The pic shows the end opposite the throttle cable.

One of the heads of the screws sheered off it looks like it was already partially broke.

I gently filed down the screw bases where they went through the shaft so they would come out. The were slightly smashed which I guess was sop for their install.

The crap on the shaft does not appear to be rust. I mean it's rusty looking but it's not adhered like rust. It's more like a surface gunk. I just barely scraped it with a flat screwdriver end not even getting to the metal then took the pic.

The other bushing locations do not have any of this residue on them.

The bore in that location has white residue I'm assuming from the bushing?

The pic is the bushings located in this area of crap build up. The other bushings are fully intact. I'm assuming new ones will come with the kit?

I was unable to find any numbers on the power valve. I know I replaced it. I will see if I can get the info from the parts house.

How should I go about cleaning this crap off? The other areas are free and clear.

Thanks again.

If it doesn't loosen with carb cleaner I would try Scotchbrite and light oil (even WD-40)

But you don't want oil on the assembled carb

It attracts abrasive dust and becomes grinding paste.

[Pizzadude]

If it doesn't loosen with carb cleaner I would try Scotchbrite and light oil (even WD-40)

But you don't want oil on the assembled carb

It attracts abrasive dust and becomes grinding paste.

Thank you. What are my options to replace that broken screw?

I have not tried to get the shaft out but once I do is that screw something I can buy or need to order?

The kit should arrive today late is there anything else I can do today to expedite it's install?

Not trying to rush but just prepare.

Thank you again for your guidance.

I can't wait to get this thing back on the road.