86 F350 1 ton Dump Resurrection

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks again guys.

I have a 19 year old Dog that has taking a turn for the worst this past week. I just had to put his "sister" down Monday of the same age. It's killing me so I'm kinda distracted with this little guy. Im not a big vet person they made it to 19 years so I'm fairly confident I've taken good care of them.

I finally broke down when she was acting very strange (not suffering before this at all) and the poor thing took her last breath in the parking lot while I waited my social distance.

It was her time though so I was headed there to put her to rest.

2 days later the little guy was acting very similarly odd. 1 hour and 600.00 later they told me he's got a back injury and he's constipated I already knew that. They offered the enemas and I thought ok I'll try it just to eliminate a variable. I thought how much can they be. It was 78.00 for two doggie enemas that retail for about 6.00. Needless to say I will not be back there again.

Anyway I'm going to hit it in a few. I only mention the dogs so you guys don't think I'm blowing off your help.

I learned long ago every thing else in this world can wait except family.

Our climate here is EXTREMELY dry I was initially thinking it was just because of the gas sitting but that makes no sense right that area is not subjected to standing fuel like the float would be right?

Sorry about your dogs. That brings thoughts to my mind of our last dog, whom had her last ride in my '82 Explorer. I can still see here laying there.

So take care of family - we'll be here.

But if your climate is that dry I'm at a real loss for what he problem could be. Time to pull the carb.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks again guys.

I have a 19 year old Dog that has taking a turn for the worst this past week. I just had to put his "sister" down Monday of the same age. It's killing me so I'm kinda distracted with this little guy. Im not a big vet person they made it to 19 years so I'm fairly confident I've taken good care of them.

I finally broke down when she was acting very strange (not suffering before this at all) and the poor thing took her last breath in the parking lot while I waited my social distance.

It was her time though so I was headed there to put her to rest.

2 days later the little guy was acting very similarly odd. 1 hour and 600.00 later they told me he's got a back injury and he's constipated I already knew that. They offered the enemas and I thought ok I'll try it just to eliminate a variable. I thought how much can they be. It was 78.00 for two doggie enemas that retail for about 6.00. Needless to say I will not be back there again.

Anyway I'm going to hit it in a few. I only mention the dogs so you guys don't think I'm blowing off your help.

I learned long ago every thing else in this world can wait except family.

Our climate here is EXTREMELY dry I was initially thinking it was just because of the gas sitting but that makes no sense right that area is not subjected to standing fuel like the float would be right?

You've got your priorities right, pizzadude.

Take the time now to spend with your best friend.

I'm sorry for your loss, and sorry these events keep coming the way they do.

It's not as if we are going anywhere...

[Pizzadude]

Hey guys thanks for the comments a appreciate it.

So I'm going to take the carb off today and then update but before I do I was wondering if I should plan on rebuilding it now or just get it moving and put it back on.

Not to because of being lazy but just to facilitate the Smog resolution more quickly.

Prior to the fail I did nothing to the carb and im assuming it was ok at the last pass.

In-between the pass and the fail stats I posted it failed but I didn't get the get the documents.

As a result of the fail prior to the one shown I completely went through the entire smog system and also replaced the intake manifold gasket.

I replaced:

every single hose and connector one at a time to ensure its proper placement

Plugs/ wires/ cap/ rotor/ distributor

Belts

I'm not positive I did this between the two but I will check my pics because I documented most all of it.

I even did a compression test that I have the results from somewhere. Basically they were all in the 100's except one that was lower but I can't remember how much I will find it as well.

The thing that finally passed me was the replacement of the EGR valve supposedly.

I say supposedly because between the pass and the next test I put maybe 25 miles on the truck and did nothing to any component.

I realize this throws a bunch of variables in the mix but I just wanted to give some history. I will check right now as to the repair dates.

If I remember correctly everything went well but I just don't know enough about if those repairs to rule out any of it making such a drastic change like last fail shows.

I mean I realize all those items can contribute obviously but just don't know if they would be enough to produce those readings.

So the question for the day is take off the carb and then put it back or order a rebuild kit?

Also I'm not getting email alerts but all my info on here is correct.

Thanks again for your time.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Hey guys thanks for the comments a appreciate it.

So I'm going to take the carb off today and then update but before I do I was wondering if I should plan on rebuilding it now or just get it moving and put it back on.

Not to because of being lazy but just to facilitate the Smog resolution more quickly.

Prior to the fail I did nothing to the carb and im assuming it was ok at the last pass.

In-between the pass and the fail stats I posted it failed but I didn't get the get the documents.

As a result of the fail prior to the one shown I completely went through the entire smog system and also replaced the intake manifold gasket.

I replaced:

every single hose and connector one at a time to ensure its proper placement

Plugs/ wires/ cap/ rotor/ distributor

Belts

I'm not positive I did this between the two but I will check my pics because I documented most all of it.

I even did a compression test that I have the results from somewhere. Basically they were all in the 100's except one that was lower but I can't remember how much I will find it as well.

The thing that finally passed me was the replacement of the EGR valve supposedly.

I say supposedly because between the pass and the next test I put maybe 25 miles on the truck and did nothing to any component.

I realize this throws a bunch of variables in the mix but I just wanted to give some history. I will check right now as to the repair dates.

If I remember correctly everything went well but I just don't know enough about if those repairs to rule out any of it making such a drastic change like last fail shows.

I mean I realize all those items can contribute obviously but just don't know if they would be enough to produce those readings.

So the question for the day is take off the carb and then put it back or order a rebuild kit?

Also I'm not getting email alerts but all my info on here is correct.

Thanks again for your time.

I think you need to find out what the problem is before deciding what to do. I keep thinking a linkage is on incorrectly or in a bind, meaning that it is an external thing. If so, fix that w/o tearing into the innards.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey guys thanks for the comments a appreciate it.

So I'm going to take the carb off today and then update but before I do I was wondering if I should plan on rebuilding it now or just get it moving and put it back on.

Not to because of being lazy but just to facilitate the Smog resolution more quickly.

Prior to the fail I did nothing to the carb and im assuming it was ok at the last pass.

In-between the pass and the fail stats I posted it failed but I didn't get the get the documents.

As a result of the fail prior to the one shown I completely went through the entire smog system and also replaced the intake manifold gasket.

I replaced:

every single hose and connector one at a time to ensure its proper placement

Plugs/ wires/ cap/ rotor/ distributor

Belts

I'm not positive I did this between the two but I will check my pics because I documented most all of it.

I even did a compression test that I have the results from somewhere. Basically they were all in the 100's except one that was lower but I can't remember how much I will find it as well.

The thing that finally passed me was the replacement of the EGR valve supposedly.

I say supposedly because between the pass and the next test I put maybe 25 miles on the truck and did nothing to any component.

I realize this throws a bunch of variables in the mix but I just wanted to give some history. I will check right now as to the repair dates.

If I remember correctly everything went well but I just don't know enough about if those repairs to rule out any of it making such a drastic change like last fail shows.

I mean I realize all those items can contribute obviously but just don't know if they would be enough to produce those readings.

So the question for the day is take off the carb and then put it back or order a rebuild kit?

Also I'm not getting email alerts but all my info on here is correct.

Thanks again for your time.

I agree with Gary.

Get it freed up and then pursue the fail.

If you only fired it up to drive to the test station (25mi in a year?) I imagine a lot of that hydrocarbon can be attributed to stuck rings or rusty bores.

Shotgunning parts at it like that might -in the end- get it to pass, but it doesn't tell you what was wrong.

Fresh gas in the tank, or even a few gallons of straight solvent 😉, might clean it up.

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[Pizzadude]

I haven't tore into it yet I'm going to take a few pics and post them.

I hear you about the parts. There was definitely a leak in the intake so that had to be addressed sooner or later. All the other stuff I did, it was about time for those items anyway so I figured might as well. I was trying to remember about the distributor I believe it was vacuum related and was determined it needed to be replaced after I pulled or tried to pull a vacuum on it.

All the hoses etc were part of elimination so I just replaced them as I went.

I really had not done much to it since I purchased it ant it was time so you know.

I found the documents and everything I did was prior to the 2015 pass so nothing changed between then and the fail.

As to the driving before the last test those were so pretty good runs 1 out to the dump and a couple down the freeway at pretty open up speeds.

Sorry for the memory it's kinda coming back to me as I go. It was probably more like under 80-100 miles and not too long before I took it.

On a good note I just found out from the Smog guy there is a program here in our county that will pay up to 850.00 to fix it and pass smog.

I don't really trust the last guy I took it to because here is why.

In 2014 it failed so I applied for the state 500.00 repair program and the replacement of the EGR valve was the ONLY repair done by this same dude aside from I believe adjusting the timing.

In 2015 I brought it in and it failed at the same shop. So since they had done the "work" just a few months earlier I figured it was the EGR valve.

However after reminding them they did the work and it was their part I said why not just replace it being it was still under warranty.

This was met with resistance finally I told them fine I will do it and take my business elsewhere.

I replaced it and took it to another shop and it failed again. This got me thinking if it was supposedly just that which was wrong before I had not driven the truck all that much, enough in my mind to cause something else to go wrong, why would it fail with basically the same readings as when the EGR valve was the issue.

This is what prompted me to really tear into the truck. It had that intake leak anyway and the rest was tune up stuff and items that were just due anyway. I figured I'd might as well just go through it and get that stuff done.

So I did all those things I listed brought it back to the orig guy that did the "repairs"

When I brought it back it failed. But not for emissions for visual. The harmonic balancer had slipped (which I guess is a common occurrence on these trucks) I replaced that and it passed.

The 2015 stats were after doing all that work, so it's safe to assume everything I did certianly did not make anything worse.

Fast forward to 2016 I brought it back again to the original place and the image I posted were the results.

Could the EGR valve failed yet again? It seems unlikely but then again I'm not that familiar with this this trucks hereditary related issues like the harmonic balancer one. Maybe this engine just naturally chews through them?

Anyway that's the history. After re reading this I'm beginning to see a pattern here. Every time I've brought it to these guys it has failed. The also to repair so maybe that's their game fail then do the repairs.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I haven't tore into it yet I'm going to take a few pics and post them.

I hear you about the parts. There was definitely a leak in the intake so that had to be addressed sooner or later. All the other stuff I did, it was about time for those items anyway so I figured might as well. I was trying to remember about the distributor I believe it was vacuum related and was determined it needed to be replaced after I pulled or tried to pull a vacuum on it.

All the hoses etc were part of elimination so I just replaced them as I went.

I really had not done much to it since I purchased it ant it was time so you know.

I found the documents and everything I did was prior to the 2015 pass so nothing changed between then and the fail.

As to the driving before the last test those were so pretty good runs 1 out to the dump and a couple down the freeway at pretty open up speeds.

Sorry for the memory it's kinda coming back to me as I go. It was probably more like under 80-100 miles and not too long before I took it.

On a good note I just found out from the Smog guy there is a program here in our county that will pay up to 850.00 to fix it and pass smog.

I don't really trust the last guy I took it to because here is why.

In 2014 it failed so I applied for the state 500.00 repair program and the replacement of the EGR valve was the ONLY repair done by this same dude aside from I believe adjusting the timing.

In 2015 I brought it in and it failed at the same shop. So since they had done the "work" just a few months earlier I figured it was the EGR valve.

However after reminding them they did the work and it was their part I said why not just replace it being it was still under warranty.

This was met with resistance finally I told them fine I will do it and take my business elsewhere.

I replaced it and took it to another shop and it failed again. This got me thinking if it was supposedly just that which was wrong before I had not driven the truck all that much, enough in my mind to cause something else to go wrong, why would it fail with basically the same readings as when the EGR valve was the issue.

This is what prompted me to really tear into the truck. It had that intake leak anyway and the rest was tune up stuff and items that were just due anyway. I figured I'd might as well just go through it and get that stuff done.

So I did all those things I listed brought it back to the orig guy that did the "repairs"

When I brought it back it failed. But not for emissions for visual. The harmonic balancer had slipped (which I guess is a common occurrence on these trucks) I replaced that and it passed.

The 2015 stats were after doing all that work, so it's safe to assume everything I did certianly did not make anything worse.

Fast forward to 2016 I brought it back again to the original place and the image I posted were the results.

Could the EGR valve failed yet again? It seems unlikely but then again I'm not that familiar with this this trucks hereditary related issues like the harmonic balancer one. Maybe this engine just naturally chews through them?

Anyway that's the history. After re reading this I'm beginning to see a pattern here. Every time I've brought it to these guys it has failed. The also to repair so maybe that's their game fail then do the repairs.

Not really.

35 year old bonded rubber that is subject to being imbalanced, in order to balance the engine, and acceleration/deceleration is going to some loose sooner or later.

[Pizzadude]

It's off..

Still stuck I have the one end soaking in a pool of PB blaster at the moment. It appears that just one side is frozen. Opposite the linkage connection.

I'm thinking the gasket is compromised? Why else would there be rust in there?

Anyway looking forward to your thoughts on the pictures.

Thank you again.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's off..

Still stuck I have the one end soaking in a pool of PB blaster at the moment. It appears that just one side is frozen. Opposite the linkage connection.

I'm thinking the gasket is compromised? Why else would there be rust in there?

Anyway looking forward to your thoughts on the pictures.

Thank you again.

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I think your hood seal is probably shot.

Well, being Cali, your going to have to fix it or swap it for another rebuilt 4180 carb.

[Pizzadude]

I think your hood seal is probably shot.

Well, being Cali, your going to have to fix it or swap it for another rebuilt 4180 carb.

Thank you

That is why I'm here, to get help fixing this.

I am not sure I understand how the seal at the carb to manifold works.

Is it or should it be air tight where the spacer plate meets the intake manifold?

I'm assuming that carb gasket is shot?

Wouldn't the gasket leaking air be enough to cause those high readings just on its on?

I'm ready to fix it just tell me what I need to do. Rebuild kit?

Thank you.