86 F350 1 ton Dump Resurrection

[Bruce moose4x4]

I would not worry if that check ball is free and sealing in its seat.

IIRC Holley recommend one less than 1/2 idle vacuum.

So, if it's 18" at idle, 1/2=9-1=#8 valve.

But that's just a safe starting point, not Bible.

The float springs should pull out gently.

But I don't see any reason to mess with them.

I change float seats, rubber tipped needles and adjust the float with the tab (inverted)

X2 but I heard 1/2 of the vacuum at idle as a starting point.

Dave ----

Yes, don't pull out the check ball there. Just make sure it rattles around. If stuck hit it with carb cleaner and use a small pick to get it loose.

Pizzadude I sent you an email. send me your address and I'll get the pieces in the mail. After I leave work tonight I won't be back on here till Monday evening.

My buddy that I learned a lot on the carbs from told me to take the vacuum reading and divide it by 3 and use that size power valve. Been doing that for years and seems to work pretty good.

[Pizzadude]

Thank you. So are these original or has this thing been rebuild? I'm going to have to take you up on the parts as as usual nobody around here can find them. I can get them from Holly though so I might do that. I will let you know.

I had to take the shaft out since it was all gunked up.

Hey guys sorry for the absence.

So just an update. I got the carb all clean and back together..well eventually anyway..there were a few things I had to redo because of my mistake but it's back on.

Right after putting it on the truck was already low on fuel so on my initial warm up it ran out of gas ( in the driveway) 😬 Then after that the plug/ cap on the radiator neck decided to give out. Fixed that and started it up let it warm up when back to the garage to get my meter and timing light. Turned the key and the starter solenoid crapped out.

Replaced it and now the battery gave out. So I took one out of my Jeep and fired it up.

Adjusted the timing and idle (neutral, distributor vac plugged, 8°. Put it back on and I'm running about 850 rpm.

There is still some kind of crazy ass miss going on. Same as before. Double checked everything air related and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary.

Checked the plugs all r ok, wires are new, cap is new, rotor, points, distributor.

I'm really at a loss. But at least it's drivable and I can take it and use that voucher. I REALLY would like to solve the problem but I've got nothing.

I still strongly believe it's air related but who knows. The carb has no air fuel mix screws buy I was careful to make sure the plates were adjusted to my understanding of properly. Which is just a square showing.

Part of me says just leave it alone and let them find the issue but the other part really wants to fix it myself.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey guys sorry for the absence.

So just an update. I got the carb all clean and back together..well eventually anyway..there were a few things I had to redo because of my mistake but it's back on.

Right after putting it on the truck was already low on fuel so on my initial warm up it ran out of gas ( in the driveway) 😬 Then after that the plug/ cap on the radiator neck decided to give out. Fixed that and started it up let it warm up when back to the garage to get my meter and timing light. Turned the key and the starter solenoid crapped out.

Replaced it and now the battery gave out. So I took one out of my Jeep and fired it up.

Adjusted the timing and idle (neutral, distributor vac plugged, 8°. Put it back on and I'm running about 850 rpm.

There is still some kind of crazy ass miss going on. Same as before. Double checked everything air related and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary.

Checked the plugs all r ok, wires are new, cap is new, rotor, points, distributor.

I'm really at a loss. But at least it's drivable and I can take it and use that voucher. I REALLY would like to solve the problem but I've got nothing.

I still strongly believe it's air related but who knows. The carb has no air fuel mix screws buy I was careful to make sure the plates were adjusted to my understanding of properly. Which is just a square showing.

Part of me says just leave it alone and let them find the issue but the other part really wants to fix it myself.

Tell us more about the miss.

"Crazy" is not a diagnostic term I've seen in any book.

Idle mixture screws should be in the base flange, covered with metal plugs for federal compliance.

You can run a sheet metal screw into them and tank them out with a pair of vice-grips, or you can cut a notch to get behind them and pry them out.

There used to be a great article on the Mustang site flemworlddotcom, reprinted from Hot Rod magazine, but I see that domain is gone.

Edit: look at arrows (B) on the second page. http://ddilts.net/mustangs/holley_4180/index.html

[85lebaront2]

Hey guys sorry for the absence.

So just an update. I got the carb all clean and back together..well eventually anyway..there were a few things I had to redo because of my mistake but it's back on.

Right after putting it on the truck was already low on fuel so on my initial warm up it ran out of gas ( in the driveway) 😬 Then after that the plug/ cap on the radiator neck decided to give out. Fixed that and started it up let it warm up when back to the garage to get my meter and timing light. Turned the key and the starter solenoid crapped out.

Replaced it and now the battery gave out. So I took one out of my Jeep and fired it up.

Adjusted the timing and idle (neutral, distributor vac plugged, 8°. Put it back on and I'm running about 850 rpm.

There is still some kind of crazy ass miss going on. Same as before. Double checked everything air related and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary.

Checked the plugs all r ok, wires are new, cap is new, rotor, points, distributor.

I'm really at a loss. But at least it's drivable and I can take it and use that voucher. I REALLY would like to solve the problem but I've got nothing.

I still strongly believe it's air related but who knows. The carb has no air fuel mix screws buy I was careful to make sure the plates were adjusted to my understanding of properly. Which is just a square showing.

Part of me says just leave it alone and let them find the issue but the other part really wants to fix it myself.

Ok, several items on the 1986 emission system, I am not sure if the CA spec setup is different from what Darth had originally. If the miss is erratic, not a steady misfire on one cylinder, I am with Jim on idle mixture. There is a Ford training manual here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-1986-fuel-system-adjustments.html that covers the adjustments. There is another section here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/holley-4180c.html that covers the Holley 4180C in detail.

On the emission plumbing, the evaporative purge system has a large (probably 3/8" hose) that runs from the purge control valves near the right front of the engine to a vacuum fitting on the front part of the intake manifold, it makes a tighter than 90° turn into the fitting and is prone to crack or collapse right there.

One more item, EGR system, first the gaskets under the carburetor, there is a thick one on top of the EGR spacer, and a thinner one under the spacer. If the thin one gets damaged it can leak into the intake side and cause an idle problem. EGR should have no vacuum to it at idle.

[Pizzadude]

Ok, several items on the 1986 emission system, I am not sure if the CA spec setup is different from what Darth had originally. If the miss is erratic, not a steady misfire on one cylinder, I am with Jim on idle mixture. There is a Ford training manual here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-1986-fuel-system-adjustments.html that covers the adjustments. There is another section here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/holley-4180c.html that covers the Holley 4180C in detail.

On the emission plumbing, the evaporative purge system has a large (probably 3/8" hose) that runs from the purge control valves near the right front of the engine to a vacuum fitting on the front part of the intake manifold, it makes a tighter than 90° turn into the fitting and is prone to crack or collapse right there.

One more item, EGR system, first the gaskets under the carburetor, there is a thick one on top of the EGR spacer, and a thinner one under the spacer. If the thin one gets damaged it can leak into the intake side and cause an idle problem. EGR should have no vacuum to it at idle.

Thank you guys

I say crazy because I've been battling this idle issue for ever.

I forgot to mention keep in mind whatever the problem is it caused my HC AND NO readings to double.

The last pass results were achieve supposedly by a bad EGR valve replacement.

I checked it this time and it is not stuck and responds to a vacuum.

I also checked the PCV valve it's free and rattling and when I put my finger on it has strong suction. The grommet it fits into is intact but when I put in in it's not a "tight" fit I'm not sure how tight it should be perhaps this could be part of the problem?

The float levels are both fine I set them off and checked them while on the truck and running they just barely leak gas which I understand as properly adjusted.

The tube you mention is not linked or bent or collapsed in any way. The gaskets for the carb are both new intact and tight.

If I put my had over the smog pump inlet there is suction.

Fuel filter is new. I have not changed the oil yet but I did before the last test and have not driven it much, less than 100 miles. I did however notice it was rather thin and might have smelled like fuel but I'm not sure.

I think the oil condition might be related to the PCV valve? I was reading if it's not working properly it could pull fuel into the oil? I don't know I've been reading so much I don't even know if that's what I read. Lol

So if we are focusing on air/fuel mix for the high CO I'm not sure what else there is.

I have yet to check the wires plugs and distributer AGAIN they were all brand new before, which doesn't necessarily equate to working properly but I can check them again if you guys think it's worth it.

As to the carb adjustment is there any reason the pre set mix would no longer be the proper setting? I mean what would need to have changed to dictate a new setting?

That's it for now. Thank you again.

Oh sorry the idle best I can describe it is erratic. When I give it gas from the engine bay there is what sounds like a rattle in the driver side valve cover. I can't describe it better than just a rattle and only when I rev it.

Tail pipe is sooty, EGR plate was sooty, EGR valve was sooty when I took it off this time and last. Not a major build up blocking anything but like slightly furry like... Suede for lack of a better word.

 

[Pizzadude]

Thank you guys

I say crazy because I've been battling this idle issue for ever.

I forgot to mention keep in mind whatever the problem is it caused my HC AND NO readings to double.

The last pass results were achieve supposedly by a bad EGR valve replacement.

I checked it this time and it is not stuck and responds to a vacuum.

I also checked the PCV valve it's free and rattling and when I put my finger on it has strong suction. The grommet it fits into is intact but when I put in in it's not a "tight" fit I'm not sure how tight it should be perhaps this could be part of the problem?

The float levels are both fine I set them off and checked them while on the truck and running they just barely leak gas which I understand as properly adjusted.

The tube you mention is not linked or bent or collapsed in any way. The gaskets for the carb are both new intact and tight.

If I put my had over the smog pump inlet there is suction.

Fuel filter is new. I have not changed the oil yet but I did before the last test and have not driven it much, less than 100 miles. I did however notice it was rather thin and might have smelled like fuel but I'm not sure.

I think the oil condition might be related to the PCV valve? I was reading if it's not working properly it could pull fuel into the oil? I don't know I've been reading so much I don't even know if that's what I read. Lol

So if we are focusing on air/fuel mix for the high CO I'm not sure what else there is.

I have yet to check the wires plugs and distributer AGAIN they were all brand new before, which doesn't necessarily equate to working properly but I can check them again if you guys think it's worth it.

As to the carb adjustment is there any reason the pre set mix would no longer be the proper setting? I mean what would need to have changed to dictate a new setting?

That's it for now. Thank you again.

Oh sorry the idle best I can describe it is erratic. When I give it gas from the engine bay there is what sounds like a rattle in the driver side valve cover. I can't describe it better than just a rattle and only when I rev it.

Tail pipe is sooty, EGR plate was sooty, EGR valve was sooty when I took it off this time and last. Not a major build up blocking anything but like slightly furry like... Suede for lack of a better word.

Hey guys did you give up on me.?

Would the exhaust crossover tube being loose cause my problems with the idle and emissions?

The hose that goes to the valve that attaches to the tube was loose. When I went to put it back on I discovered the tube was just resting in the block I was unable to see in there but it appears it is either broken at the Port attachment point or just pulled out of the end that fits in the block.

Thank you

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey guys did you give up on me.?

Would the exhaust crossover tube being loose cause my problems with the idle and emissions?

The hose that goes to the valve that attaches to the tube was loose. When I went to put it back on I discovered the tube was just resting in the block I was unable to see in there but it appears it is either broken at the Port attachment point or just pulled out of the end that fits in the block.

Thank you

Not having the thermactor connected is going to kill your emissions.

The pumps force A.I.R. into the exhaust manifolds and burn off HC & CO before they get out the tail pipe.

Not uncommon for the crossover to rot out if there's not air being pumped in, because otherwise it's filled with ultra rich exhaust all the time

[Pizzadude]

Not having the thermactor connected is going to kill your emissions.

The pumps force A.I.R. into the exhaust manifolds and burn off HC & CO before they get out the tail pipe.

Not uncommon for the crossover to rot out if there's not air being pumped in, because otherwise it's filled with ultra rich exhaust all the time

And there you have it.

Thank you Jim. I have been searching for the part based on a diagram on here that shows the number 9B449.

I have yet to find it. Is it possible to repair this? I'm a fairly accomplish welder.

I can't seem to get a really good look at it but it appears to be broken where the tube goes into the part that attaches to the block.

It appears like the small section of tube that goes horizontally into the donut is broken (red line in attachment) Again I have yet to get under it and see closely but it looks to be maybe only 1/4" maybe 3/8" remaining.

The donut, the bolt and the retaining clip is gone. I'm confident I can weld a new section on there.

I'm going to look up the other parts circled in green on the attachment. If I can't find them maybe I can fabricate it.

9C435 On the diagram doesn't bring up the donut/gasket

Any advice on where to get these parts or how to modify this with another set up is appreciated.

Thank you.

[ArdWrknTrk]

And there you have it.

Thank you Jim. I have been searching for the part based on a diagram on here that shows the number 9B449.

I have yet to find it. Is it possible to repair this? I'm a fairly accomplish welder.

I can't seem to get a really good look at it but it appears to be broken where the tube goes into the part that attaches to the block.

It appears like the small section of tube that goes horizontally into the donut is broken (red line in attachment) Again I have yet to get under it and see closely but it looks to be maybe only 1/4" maybe 3/8" remaining.

The donut, the bolt and the retaining clip is gone. I'm confident I can weld a new section on there.

I'm going to look up the other parts circled in green on the attachment. If I can't find them maybe I can fabricate it.

9C435 On the diagram doesn't bring up the donut/gasket

Any advice on where to get these parts or how to modify this with another set up is appreciated.

Thank you.

AutoZone has a replacement crossover tube by GP Sorensen.

Don't let them tell you they don't!

The check valve is available from Motorcraft.

[Pizzadude]

AutoZone has a replacement crossover tube by GP Sorensen.

Don't let them tell you they don't!

The check valve is available from Motorcraft.

I may have found the tube but that leaves the retaining clips, bolts and donuts/gaskets.

But the bigger question is, is it even possible to get this tube disconnected and back in with the engine in?

I can just barely get my hand in there I didn't try a wrench yet but the bolt is dam near touching the firewall. It looks like it's possible but could you verify this?

I did verify the tube inlet is broken off.