86 F350 1 ton Dump Resurrection

[Pizzadude]

Hey everyone,

I thought I'd start this here in case it will help others since I have a bunch to do from brakes to SMOG to get this thing back on the road.

So it's sat for about 4 years not since the last fail I've started it maybe twice in that time and it fired right up.

About a month ago I fired it up and it would idol but I could not rev it or drive it because it seems something in the carb is not right.

When I press on the gas it's not actuating the fuel. So it's just running at a steady idol.

My primary goal was to get it to pass SMOG but I can't even get it to rev so I'm stuck at this point.

It's not the cable it's something mechanical in the carb that is stuck frozen. I'm sure it's from sitting but not sure where to start.

I have hit just about every moving part with PB blaster and or brake cleaner with no luck.

I apologise for lack of specific terminology I know it doesn't help you if I'm talking apples about oranges so I will brush up on what I can.

Once I can tackle this issue hopefully I can solve the smog issue but I'm stuck literally right now.

Thank you.

It's a Holly 4180 stock carb

[Gary Lewis]

Good place to start.

But it sounds like your throttle linkage is disconnected from the carb's primary throttle shaft. I can't imagine anything else that would let it run at a nice idle since if the throttle plates open any it'll not idle - it'll either rev up or die.

The throttle itself, meaning the pedal, moves an arm in the cab that pulls on the end of a cable. The other end of the cable snaps over a ball on the throttle shaft on the carb. So I think somewhere along that line something has come loose.

If the cable moves and the throttle arm on the carb is moving, then it has probably been torn loose from the carb's throttle shaft. The arm should have a square opening in it and be slipped over the end of the throttle shaft and held on with either a screw or peening.

 

[Pizzadude]

Good place to start.

But it sounds like your throttle linkage is disconnected from the carb's primary throttle shaft. I can't imagine anything else that would let it run at a nice idle since if the throttle plates open any it'll not idle - it'll either rev up or die.

The throttle itself, meaning the pedal, moves an arm in the cab that pulls on the end of a cable. The other end of the cable snaps over a ball on the throttle shaft on the carb. So I think somewhere along that line something has come loose.

If the cable moves and the throttle arm on the carb is moving, then it has probably been torn loose from the carb's throttle shaft. The arm should have a square opening in it and be slipped over the end of the throttle shaft and held on with either a screw or peening.

See that's the thing nothing is loose. I thought that as well but when I step on the pedal it's as if that shaft is frozen in place. When I manually try to push on the assembly where the cable connection is it does not budge.

[Gary Lewis]

See that's the thing nothing is loose. I thought that as well but when I step on the pedal it's as if that shaft is frozen in place. When I manually try to push on the assembly where the cable connection is it does not budge.

Oh! So the pedal doesn't move? Not at all? That would explain why the engine doesn't rev.

I've never seen a throttle shaft seize in the throttle plate, but I can see that it could happen. But, let's step back a notch first. Pull the throttle linkage off the ball on the carb's throttle and see if the pedal will move. The arrow on your pic, below, points to where the blue plastic end of the throttle cable snaps over the ball. You should be able to get it off with a screw driver.

[Pizzadude]

Oh! So the pedal doesn't move? Not at all? That would explain why the engine doesn't rev.

I've never seen a throttle shaft seize in the throttle plate, but I can see that it could happen. But, let's step back a notch first. Pull the throttle linkage off the ball on the carb's throttle and see if the pedal will move. The arrow on your pic, below, points to where the blue plastic end of the throttle cable snaps over the ball. You should be able to get it off with a screw driver.

Yes it's fine. I had already checked that thinking it was some kind of play I'm the cable but the shaft still is stuck.

I just removed it again though

[Gary Lewis]

Yes it's fine. I had already checked that thinking it was some kind of play I'm the cable but the shaft still is stuck.

I just removed it again though

Ok, so it is either the shaft or some part of the carb's own linkage that is blocking it.

You haven't had the carb apart since last you ran it. Right? So the linkage on the carb hasn't been changed? Some carbs have lockouts that, if put together incorrectly might do that.

If not, then I'd try penetrating oil on the throttle shaft of the carb as it sounds like it is stuck. And, if you know your way around the carb, I'd pull it and turn it upside down so you can get to the throttle plates. Are they rusted? And put penetrating oil on the inside of the throttle shaft where the throttle plates are so it can penetrate into the throttle plate's bushing.

[Pizzadude]

Ok, so it is either the shaft or some part of the carb's own linkage that is blocking it.

You haven't had the carb apart since last you ran it. Right? So the linkage on the carb hasn't been changed? Some carbs have lockouts that, if put together incorrectly might do that.

If not, then I'd try penetrating oil on the throttle shaft of the carb as it sounds like it is stuck. And, if you know your way around the carb, I'd pull it and turn it upside down so you can get to the throttle plates. Are they rusted? And put penetrating oil on the inside of the throttle shaft where the throttle plates are so it can penetrate into the throttle plate's bushing.

Correct nothing has changed since I last ran it and all was moving properly.

It's got to be just corroded from the fuel or rust.

I feared removing it was the only other option here. I've hit it with everything I've got from penetrating oil to brake cleaner hoping to remove the gunk but it appears it's just got to come off.

I was hoping to not remove it because that introduces about 6000 other variables in the SMOG scenario but I guess now that if finally found a place for help I can minimize the carb re install/adjustments.

I'm gonna get back at it in the morning.

Is it safe to assume if I can get it unstuck I may not have to re adjust it again? Last time I had a heck of a time but finally got it.

Thanks for all your help today.

[Gary Lewis]

Correct nothing has changed since I last ran it and all was moving properly.

It's got to be just corroded from the fuel or rust.

I feared removing it was the only other option here. I've hit it with everything I've got from penetrating oil to brake cleaner hoping to remove the gunk but it appears it's just got to come off.

I was hoping to not remove it because that introduces about 6000 other variables in the SMOG scenario but I guess now that if finally found a place for help I can minimize the carb re install/adjustments.

I'm gonna get back at it in the morning.

Is it safe to assume if I can get it unstuck I may not have to re adjust it again? Last time I had a heck of a time but finally got it.

Thanks for all your help today.

I really can't imagine a carb being that stuck. And I would have thought California would be dry. But is it damp where you are?

I really can't say that this will be the last time 'cause I don't know why it is doing it in the first place. But if you've been soaking it and it hasn't freed up then it needs to come off.

And we'll be here to help you.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I really can't imagine a carb being that stuck. And I would have thought California would be dry. But is it damp where you are?

I really can't say that this will be the last time 'cause I don't know why it is doing it in the first place. But if you've been soaking it and it hasn't freed up then it needs to come off.

And we'll be here to help you.

Rebuilding a 4180 isn't too difficult.

And purchasing a rebuilt one is expensive!

But you have to be sure you buy the right kit.

Take it off and look closely to see if you can find why it is stuck.

[Pizzadude]

Thanks again guys.

I have a 19 year old Dog that has taking a turn for the worst this past week. I just had to put his "sister" down Monday of the same age. It's killing me so I'm kinda distracted with this little guy. Im not a big vet person they made it to 19 years so I'm fairly confident I've taken good care of them.

I finally broke down when she was acting very strange (not suffering before this at all) and the poor thing took her last breath in the parking lot while I waited my social distance.

It was her time though so I was headed there to put her to rest.

2 days later the little guy was acting very similarly odd. 1 hour and 600.00 later they told me he's got a back injury and he's constipated I already knew that. They offered the enemas and I thought ok I'll try it just to eliminate a variable. I thought how much can they be. It was 78.00 for two doggie enemas that retail for about 6.00. Needless to say I will not be back there again.

Anyway I'm going to hit it in a few. I only mention the dogs so you guys don't think I'm blowing off your help.

I learned long ago every thing else in this world can wait except family.

Our climate here is EXTREMELY dry I was initially thinking it was just because of the gas sitting but that makes no sense right that area is not subjected to standing fuel like the float would be right?